Umi: A Taste of Tokyo in Edinburgh’s West End

Minimalist, warm and quietly confident, Umi delivers a lunchtime escape where precision, comfort and serious flavour meet—at prices that feel almost implausible for the West End.

We tumble into Umi on a chilly February lunchtime. With its minimalist wooden décor and cosy booths, it feels like a neighbourhood eatery you’d find down a side alley in Tokyo. The light wood, soft lighting and gentle buzz of conversation set the tone: this is somewhere you can happily linger over lunch rather than rush in and out.

We choose several dishes from the lunch menu and it’s not long before our drinks arrive swiftly followed by a warming, flavour-packed Miso Soup that is a comforting hug of umami.

From the small plates, the Ebi Lollipop is a bit of fun – crunchy and sweet, with a subtle kimchi aioli and addictive wee garlic chips.

Chicken Gyoza arrive plump and moreish, bronzed on the fried side and silky underneath, perked up by a spicy vinegar dipping sauce that gives just enough attitude.

Takoyaki, often a heavy proposition, are deftly handled here: lightly crisp on the outside, soft and steamy within, the octopus pieces offering just enough resistance to keep things interesting. The smoky bonito flake topping flutters like fairy wings catching the thermals given off by these tempting morsels.

Mr H’s Chicken Karaage is exactly what you want from fried food: tender, juicy pieces in a gloriously craggy batter, with a citrus mayo on the side, cutting through the richness like a tiny, tangy therapist.

My choice has to be the Itamae Gozen that consists of Nigiri and Sashimi. The kitchen’s strengths shine with precise delivery, it is both carefully sourced and elegantly composed.

Hamachi, or yellowtail, a mild, almost buttery flavoured fish, nestles on a bed of ice and shredded daikon radish cosied up with Bluefin Tuna and Scottish Salmon that provide richer counterpoints. The Nigiri has the same fish, but also includes prawn, and more delicately sliced than the Sashimi, draped over sticky rice like courtesans waiting for their escorts. Adding small daubs of wasabi and ginger to each tidbit delightfully tingles my tastebuds.

Edinburgh's West End or an alley in Tokyo?

Both dishes are accompanied by a bowl of green leaves punctuated with pops of colour from beetroot, edamame beans, and pickled kumquat that also adds a citrusy hit. Plenty of sticky rice does an admirable job of soaking up soy sauce, the various dressings, and zingy pickled cucumber slices.

Everything was washed down with lashings of sake and some very nice white peach and strawberry kombucha.

You can easily eat lunch at UMI and come away stuffed for under 20 quid! An absolute bargain considering it’s situated not far from Princes Street.

Related:

More lunchtime venues

More Japanese restaurants.

Umi Japanese Cuisine: 6 Shandwick Place, Edinburgh - Phone: 07999979888 

Hours: Mon – Sun, 12.00 to 22.30