The Skillet: hyper-local and heading for gastronomic glory

Discovering a neighbourhood gem hiding in plain sight, award-winning food journalist Cate Devine finds The Skillet in Glasgow’s West End delivering cooking of rare precision and flair under head chef Aamana McGivern — a restaurant she believes is destined for wider attention and even a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

I’ve heard it said that sometimes it’s the people closest to you that you know the least. I reckon the same adage can apply to local restaurants and, especially, their fantastic if undersung chefs.

A case in point is The Skillet, a neighbourhood spot in Glasgow’s West End that’s been around for three years, is just steps away from home, minutes from some of the area’s more high-profile establishments and which - speaking for myself - can be sadly overlooked as a result.

Not any more. Head chef Aamana McGivern can be spotted immediately on entering this plate glass-fronted, beautifully designed space (think large frondy plants, dark walls and stunning mood lighting) whose relaxed ambience is set by some very cool background music: the kitchen is half open and adjacent to the ground-floor bar. Front of house staff, headed by the delightful owner Luke Tracey, whose hospitality career includes stints at The Buttery and Mar Hall, immediately welcome me and show me to my mezzanine-level table overlooking the action. From here I can also admire the original Victorian brickwork and cornicing and the 1960s city-scape bas-relief ceiling, a throwback to the period building’s mysterious past.

Chef Aamana began her culinary career at Martin Wishart’s The Honours in Edinburgh, working in pastry then hot sections, moving to Michelin star restaurants in London and most recently working as senior sous-chef at the Ubiquitous Chip.

The absolute precision, elegant presentation and boldness of complex flavours in her cooking, which showcases Scottish produce, is outstanding in her recent pivot from fine-dining to a highly accomplished sharing and small-plate sharing menu. A Beef Tartare Snack on beef fat hash brown with smoked duck egg cream is blow-away delicious, sharp-edged - and shout-out pretty to behold. A brilliant start to the meal, where everything is made to order in-house.

An oval plate of chilled Cornish White Crab and Kohlrabi Mousse with green apple dice topped with pickled crab apple is artfully plated with a profoundly herby emerald dill oil. Just lovely in its delicate balance of sweet crustacean and citrus acidity - though I could have done with a wee something to mop it up.

Generosity of portions is repeated in a thick slice of Ham Hock Terrine which is firm yet soft and highly textured, mustardy, caper-y and savoury, topped with quail egg, fresh herb greens, potato crisp and set on a parsley emulsion. What’s not to love?

My next choice delivers the bread I hanker after - and then some. You might think Shetland Mussels with Nduja and Fennel would arrive as a soupy broth in a bowl but no: this was something altogether different. A mighty slice of what I later learn is chef Aamana’s signature toasted potato bread - crispy on the edge, soft and light-as-a-feather in the middle - is piled high with a generous tumble of sweet plump shelled mussels, spicy sausage sauce and shaved caramelised fennel so that it is almost an open sandwich. Easier to eat than it might sound, this is a stunning, complex, punchy and original dish that, at £14.50, is simply knockout.

Brisket

My partner’s choice of Braised Beef Brisket in Bourguignon Sauce with smoked pancetta is a masterclass in how to achieve the softest texture while intensifying depth of flavour and making it look amazing. It is easy to try polishing off the entire bowl of the crispiest smashed potatoes with rosemary salt we order as a side, as they are so soft, crunchy and more-ish, but reluctantly we can’t manage.

Neither can I contemplate any of the desserts, despite being sorely tempted by an in-season on-trend Yorkshire Rhubarb Vanilla Parfait with Rhubarb Sorbet and Meringue, or a Tiramisu Ice-Cream with espresso caramel and shaved dark chocolate.

Next time for sure. Now that I know The Skillet, I can’t not know it and certainly won’t be a stranger.

And I’m willing to place a cast-iron bet that it’s destined for wider attention and even a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Watch this space.

The Skillet, 70-72 Hyndland Street, Partick, Glasgow G11 5PT

Open 5pm-11pm Wednesday; 12noon-11pm, Thursday, Friday, Saturday (last booking 9pm), 12noon-10pm Sunday (last booking 8pm).