El Santo Turns Up the Heat for 'O Grande' in Glasgow.

Glasgow’s Merchant City meets the heat of southern Brazil as chef Juliana Kipper unveils El Santo’s new summer menu — a celebration of subtle spice, smoky parrilla cooking and the shared footballing soul of two nations gearing up for a seismic June showdown.

It’s the first time I’ve been back in Glasgow since the fire that destroyed the Union Corner Building next to Central Station. You’ll know the facade,

even if you didn’t know it. That famous Irn Bru sign on the roof was Glasgow’s enduring landmark, as famous as the neon brilliance of Piccadilly Circus or Times Square. However, it’s only an enforced detour and two blocks away in Glasgow’s regimented city centre grid, to reach Miller Street. Here, there’s a place where the flames are confined to the impressive Parilla Charcoal Grill in the kitchen of El Santo, our dining destination that owes its heritage to the burning skies of Brazil. 

The spotless whites of head chef Juliana Kipper have a blaze of pastel colours, as if bleached by the Copa Cabana sun. That, though, is nowhere near her native Rio Grande do Sul, in the deep south of Brazil. So south it’s almost Uruguay. Now that’s appropriate, since we’re about to dive headlong into something this city and Juliana’s homeland share in common. A fascination with football. Uruguay, not Brazil, is a World Cup name to conjure with. The first winners of the tournament, back when the competition was all about football, and less about corporate sell-out. Which is why El Santo is so good for the authentic football fan, and fans of good, authentic South American flavours as well.

Juliana was born within sight of the Rio Quaraí, the meandering river that divides her motherland from its smaller cup-winning neighbour, but her heart is firmly in Brazil. She loves nothing more than to express that devotion in her dishes. That, for all of our dining partners, on this sun-kissed spring afternoon, is a devotion we heartily share.

El Santo has launched a new summer menu, with Juliana digging deep into her family heritage cookbook. She may well have delved into her native meteorology heritage, too. The climate in the cattle rearing uplands of Rio Grande do Sul is less jungle rainforest and more rainy Scottish summer with the thermostat turned up a bit.

That, if I were restricted to one line about this tantalising new menu, would be my description. Flavours that abound with hints of chilli, pepper and spice, but all have a subtlety and benign overtones that only a Scottish summer can imbue. Throughout this everlasting afternoon, an upbeat soundtrack that’s more fantastic than Fado serenades our sunny repast. 

To begin what turns into an afternoon of diving dining, the heat of the Tuna Tostada is offset by a Watermelon Tiradito, which is bathed in a cool, juicy pool that front of house gaucho Paul delivers carefully to our table.

Of liquid refreshment, the drinks menu is divided by tastes. There’s “Regional and Heritage”; “Wild and Artisanal”; and the one that most closely suits me: “Aged and Refined”. From the latter, El Cabrón Añejo (40%!) is possibly only a wise choice if the rest of the day does not demand too much of you. I abstain because, like a latter-day Gene Hunt, have the Quattro parked just outside Glasgow’s draconian LEZ. We are, however, within a short stroll of both Central and Queen Street stations and Buchanan Coach Station, so public transport is definitely an option. I have a return ticket to a remarkably authentic “Nojito”, which serves my palate well, and prepares me for an afternoon date with Juliana’s dining discretion.

Head Chef Juliana Kipper

The staff sing her praises - almost as in tune as the South American soundtrack. In contrast, the kitchen is a quiet picture of efficiency. No Gordons having a Paisley profanity tantrum here. It’s all down to delivery and presentation, delights and perfection. Teamwork - that’s the mantra behind the scenes, which brings us back to my overriding Brazilian preoccupation. You see, of dates and teamwork, 24 June will be "O Grande”, as our Portuguese-speaking host would say. That will be Scotland’s last group match of the World Trump - sorry - Cup, in the heat of Miami, with lithe-limbed Brazilians as opponents.  

Will it be hotter than the jalapeño in the beef served on the marrow with a side of focaccia? I’m not sure if I should dip into the sea salt bed, but I do - and it only makes me appreciate the Nojito all the more. The beef is tender and served as a subtle flavour, ground into the presentation, so as to provide that subtle hint of meat. 

Now, the Merchant City does not make the tourist brochure’s bargain basement pages. You could blow a Premiership budget by overindulging in what is still a paradise for upmarket retail. However, at El Santo, we’re truly fine dining at everyday prices. From light lunches under £12 to full steak feasts under £50, there are opportunities to visit El Santo and feed a party of four for less than the LEZ charge, including my fare from the park and ride.  

I chide Juliana for overfeeding me with the small plate selection she brings to my table. Each one seems manageable enough, yet somehow, there’s more to the portions than meets the eye. I’m fast filling up, but I’m still compelled to clear my dishes - all of them. 

The Chicken Tacos are deliciously devoured far faster than decorum would prefer. It’s perhaps down to the dressing of shredded lettuce and chipotle mayo - and is that a hint of pickled onion? Yes, I believe so, and it’s confirmed by the patient and attentive Paul, who seems to appear from thin air at all the right times to keep the table from becoming embarrassingly laden with gleefully denuded platters. 

Now, this may or may not be the place you come to watch the “O Grande”. The management were actually meeting this very morning to decide how they will marry a cuisine from a football-mad culture to a city that’s crazy for the big game, at the same time as maintaining the singularly relaxed atmosphere of El Santo. Expect not the big screen exposure of every other bar and bolt hole in the Merchant City. This is not that place. El Santo is positioning itself as the place to be before, and the after-party destination to be when all else is a madding crowd.

Does this mean that El Santo has eschewed the stereotype of screaming Brazilian blue murder at every kick of the ball? Not absolutely. Rumour is that Juliana is planning a signature dish, just for the occasion. Something that celebrates the heat of the moment, but will be tempered to suit both Brazilian and Scottish tastes. Something as stylish as a pancho on a chilly night, but as revealing as a beach thong (Copa Cabana style, not Portobello, you understand). 

As if not enough has arrived at our table, the 'Peça de Resistência' is delivered. Brazilian cut Picanha Steak, with a side of grilled pineapple, dusted with cinnamon. The tropical fruit is a digestif, although the meat is slow-cooked to perfection, and already goes down effortlessly.  

Since leaving her native land, Juliana first settled in Ireland, gaining a reputation among the Dublin cognoscenti, who appreciate her delicate touch. The Irish have missed her these past two years, since signing for El Santo shortly after it opened. Glasgow, though, has taken her to heart, and the words of praise go beyond the first-floor doors behind the Victorian facades of Miller Street. It’s only a coincidence that the building shares premises with a host of dental practices - Miller Street is often nicknamed Mollar Street. My implants are not in danger from the special Brazilian pudding made with condensed milk and a host of fruit flavours. It smoothes its way down with ease. Some might say too smoothly … and order another. Me? I just looked on with envy at the chocolate cigar being plated on the dessert table in the kitchen. 

Related: El Santo - a multi-sensory journey around Latin America

Good to know

El Santo Bar & Restaurant   84 Miller Street, Merchant City, Glasgow G1 1DT

Bookings: 0141 465 1818

Head Chef: Juliana Kipper

Specialisms: Parrilla charcoal grill, Brazilian & South American dishes with Scottish produce Summer Menu: New small plates, Picanha steak, sea bream with mezcal bisque, trio of desserts

Drinks: Refreshed cocktail list including Yuzu Gimlet, Banoffee Pie & Tropic Like It’s Hot World Cup Link: Special dish & cocktail planned for Scotland v Brazil on 24 June Extras: Regular Fiesta Nights with samba dancers