Ten Years of The Voyage of Buck Vs Four Hours of Bitches

A new chef, a dazzling autumn menu and a landmark birthday? It could only mean one thing: a gloriously long, and boozy, lunch. The Social Bitches headed to The Voyage of Buck to celebrate ten years of cocktails, quirkiness and some of Edinburgh's most inventive cooking.

Today, these Bitches are toasting The Voyage of Buck’s 10th Birthday [ Seriously?? Where has the time, and one’s liver function actually gone??? ] With a new, award-winning chef, plus dazzling autumn menu, what better excuse for one of our legendary four-hour lunches?

In other words: DING DONG!

We begin at our fave table, obvs, complete with lighty-up cocktail sign, and a saucy libation called Sun Bear - a sublime mix of spiced rum, whisky, Campari, pineapple and lime. Hmmm … fabulous!

We’re not even Campari people, but three rounds in, this wonderfully bittersweet cocktail with a zesty finish, has made us absolute converts. And of course, strangely thirsty … 

But let’s talk about Buck. The fictional adventurer who’s inspired many an exciting flavour, impeccable atmosphere, and a decor we LOVE! A mash up of Victorian and art deco, with curiosities and tropical wallpaper-a-go-go.

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We’re also delighted to say - as we pop open our first Vinho Verde, and “nibble” on the lush homemade focaccia - that the menu is just as eccentric, and even more enticing.

Clearly, the arrival of head chef Nathan Graham [ formerly of Purslane and Dùthchas ] brings serious invention to the table, marrying Scottish flavours with European influence and the odd unexpected twist.

First round: Cullen Skink Bon Bons, with smoked haddock, toasted oat, whisky, and a cheeky pea sauce. Now this - boasting all the warmth of the classic dish - is deconstruction at its best Bitches.

Even better is the Ox Cheek Gnocchi with harissa, Manchego, and the herbaceous joy that is beef fat chermoula. Oosh. Lavish on the ox, wonderfully tender, a little chilli, then lightly fried. This intense dish is breath-taking.

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Obviously, Nathan has a fine line to walk - gastro pub versus his skills in fine dining - but he navigates it so deliciously! Plus, the portions are beyond generous.  But the biggest surprise of all? 

Well, for these Bitches, that would be … Fries with CHICKEN SALT.

This umami-packed seasoning is practically a religion Down Under, but here in Scotland it’s more elusive. Naturally, Nathan makes his own, bless him, and added to the humble French fry: IT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE!

Several bowls later, there’s also more Vinho to be tossed back, honey-drizzled Aubergine Fritters to demolish, and oh yes … our mains. 

The Pork Cheek Ragu, layered with lasagne, spinach pistou and pine nuts is again bursting with unexpected flavours. Love, love, LOVE.

And then there’s Venison, lightly charred, beautifully pink inside, with braised chicory, turnip fondant, and fig chutney delivering gorgeous bursts of sweetness. Perfection.

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Now into our fourth hour, we’re totes full, but …. another cocktail?? Well, don’t mind if we do. Say hello to: Spiced Vietnamese Coffee, a dangerously drinkable mix of Mount Gay rum, coconut, condensed milk, coffee and WOW.

While it’s easily dessert in a glass, we’re instead calling it a cheeky “palate cleanser”. After all, there’s still the Custard Tart, Sticky Toffee Pudding, and at least two bottles of Primitivo demanding our immediate attention.

So, after ten glorious years, Voyage of Buck remains at the top of its game. A hugely inventive menu, quirky decor, and fabulous staff make it an experience to be savoured, never rushed. Not that these long-lunching Bitches EVER would! (Derek and Isaac AKA The Social Bitches)

The Voyage of Buck - 29-31 William Street, Edinburgh, EH3 7NG.                   

Mon - Thu 12pm - 12am / Fri - Sat 12pm - 1am / Sun 12-11pm