Chez Bernard: A home from home at the Shore

Inspired by family memories and French hospitality, Chez Bernard brings relaxed wine-bar charm to Leith's Shore, serving generous sharing boards, excellent wines and great-value dining from just £8.

Sometimes the universe sends you a sign. At least that’s what Isla and Jonathan felt when their search for a location for their new wine bar brought up a vacancy just off Bernard Street on the Shore in Leith. Bernard was Jonathan's grandfather, a great inspiration behind Jonathan's career and their new venture because of his love of welcoming everyone around the table to share food and wine. They secured the space, which was previously Victor Hugo, and there could only be one name…

Jonathan explains a little more on a recent visit: “So much of what inspired this place comes from my memories of my grandfather. That's the warmth and hospitality I grew up with, and something we'd love to share with everyone who visits us here on The Shore.

“What we'd really love to bring is that relaxed French wine bar atmosphere. Somewhere people can feel at home, whether they fancy popping in for a glass of wine or two, having something small to share, or staying for a long lunch that turns into an afternoon, or even an evening! That's something I've always loved about French culture: taking your time, enjoying food and wine, and not feeling rushed.”

The warm welcome is certainly apparent as soon as you arrive at the somehow spacious yet cosy bar, and it’s easy to lose track of time here, so much so that we recently missed our train. Furry friends are also very much welcome, indeed, you might even meet ‘The Manager’, Jack Russell Rocky.

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Yet the reason Chez Bernard has made it to my Frugal Foodie column is that other feature of French food culture – an egalitarian attitude to the cost of dining. At lunchtime during the week, each of the Plats Chauds are available for a very reasonable £8 each, including classics like Croque Monsieur, Quiche Lorraine, Buckwheat galette and Smoked salmon tartine.

We go in the evening, however, as we are keen to try the ‘Formule Bernard’ a 500ml carafe of wine with either a Medium planchette or 10 Oysters for £40. We opt for the former and the board is overflowing as it arrives – loaded high with Italian and French cheese and charcuterie, pickles, grapes and chutneys. The house red is a very quaffable Merlot Syrah from Ardèche, France. The cheeses particularly impress: a super creamy Délice de Bourgogne contrasts to the spice of the Tomme aux Fleurs and picante Bleu d'Auvergne, while the mild Morbier pairs well with everything. Isla explains the board in detail, enthusiasm betraying her love for the produce, which we learn is mostly sourced directly from France.

This is your sign to hit up Chez Bernard for an authentically French convivial long lunch or relaxed evening that won’t break the bank. The recent addition of Raclette at £30 per person means it certainly won’t be long till my next visit. Hopefully see you there. (Diana Turner)

Chez Bernard - 38 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6QU - 0131 564 0358

Open seven days a week, 12pm until late