Lennox – unapologetic, indulgent cooking

Nico Simeone

Lea Harris dives into Nico Simeone’s newest evolution: Lennox, a stripped‑back, swagger‑heavy reboot where indulgence rules, flavours misbehave, and the kitchen hums with raw, boyhood energy.

Nico Simeone is a culinary David Bowie; he has the ability to evolve his style without losing his ideas and philosophy. Lennox, named for his childhood football team, is a swagger back to boyhood freedom and raw energy. Six by Nico on Queensferry Street has been stripped back and rebuilt; it’s sleek, intimate, atmospheric-sexier, but no less sassy. The food is unmitigated, uncompromising indulgence, so come with an empty belly.

Mr H and I open with cocktails and let our server talk us into four small plates, a main and a couple of sides. My pick, a Rhubarb and Custard number that looks like it wandered in from the dessert menu, somehow earns its place next to the juicy, chilli-spiked Gordal Olives and the downright slutty Devils-on-Horseback with liver parfait and maple. Sweet and salty is the oldest trick in the book, but the dates and pâté turn it into full-blown umami sin.

The Buffalo Squid has me in raptures: soft as angels' breath, filthy as a harlot, and the pickled celery is a revelation, but the nori ranch sauce gets lost. Voluptuous Mussels recline on a charred sourdough pillow under a punchy nduja and tomato blanket. The spicing is balanced, the bivalves don’t have to compete for dominance, each element has its own voice. Nico provides us with two extra dishes, one of his signatures, Gnocchi, Chicken Wings, Cacio e Pepe, and a Potato Terrine with Pickled Onion, Yolk Jam and Warm Tartare. Now this is where indulgence goes into overdrive; both come with really rich sauces. In fact, the chicken comes with three – a reduced chicken jus, a Pecorino Romano mousse and a huge amount of incredible beurre blanc. Although delicious, it is just too much. There are a couple of glitches with the spud, we find the yolk jam on the salty side, and, although the pickled veg cuts through the tartare, it is a tad too acidic.

For mains, the Half Dry-Aged Duck with Panang Sauce, Lennox Chilli Oil and Cavolo Nero. Pink, succulent breast; confit leg that surrenders without a fight. The chilli oil brings heat without bullying the bird, though it does flatten some of the sauce's gentler notes. The cabbage has been over seasoned, making it a salty mouthful. The sides of Fried Baby Spuds with a salt and vinegar dust work well but alongside the duck, the addition of the roast garlic aioli doesn’t add anything. It would be entirely appropriate with the beef or pork dishes. The Corn Ribs with Chilli Lime Butter and Chorizo, though, are pure firecracker — sharp, zingy, exactly what the tastebuds ordered. Because of the two extra plates, Mr H and I are well stuffed, so take a breather before continuing our culinary journey into the realm that is dessert.

We decide on sharing another cocktail; The Last Call – think molten after eight that is boozy with rum. And the pud we plump for is Smoked Banana, Custard Tart, Rum & Raisin, and Candied Pecan. Butter-rich pastry topped with the most unctuous dulce de leche custard, raisins plumped up with more booze nestled on a sweet, nutty soil. The fruit could be more smoked and a few more slices would be nice.

To say we are replete is an understatement, never more have our gunwales been stuffed. Lennox does what it says on the menu – Unapologetic, Indulgent Cooking, with a few seasoning kinks still to iron out before it hits full stride.

You need to choose wisely from the menu, otherwise your palate gets overwhelmed. Grab tables 5 or 6 to watch the kitchen action. Vegetarians and vegans are properly looked after, not an afterthought.  Keep an eye on socials for the dates of their Collection Menu of ten sharing plates. 

The Lennox team is tight, sassy, endearing. Watching Nico at the pass is a pleasure. He encourages the younger members of the brigade with understanding, and they seem to thrive under his guidance. There is precision there too, but best of all they seem to be having fun amid the flames, noise and heat.

LENNOX - 40 Queensferry St, EH2 4RA - 0131 388 6666

Opening hours: Tue - Sun 12:00 - 00:00. Closed Mon

edinburgh@lennoxrestaurant.co.uk   IG: @lennoxrestaurant