Café Royal Celebrates 200 Years as Edinburgh’s Original Oyster Bar

Café Royal is marking its bicentenary this December as Edinburgh’s iconic venue for oysters. Back in 1826, bivalves were ten a penny, or rather, pennies a dozen, and a working‑class staple. The site was a run‑of‑the‑mill tavern and oyster bar until the late 19th century, when it was refurbished into the Victorian splendour we know today, complete with Royal Doulton tiled murals, a circular bar, and that signature mix of mahogany, brass and stained glass. The makeover cemented Café Royal as a fashionable haunt for the city’s suited‑and‑booted, but today it’s once again a democratic mix of folk from all walks of life.

General manager Michael Eaton said the anniversary marks “an extraordinary moment” for the institution, and a series of themed dining events will run throughout 2026. Alongside Edwardian, Georgian and Victorian menus, part of the wider birthday celebrations, there is a set heritage menu, and this is what we were invited to taste.

Our meal showed that the Auld Alliance between France and Scotland, forged in the 13th century and felt for centuries afterwards, still shapes the way Scotland cooks and eats. French influence lingers in technique, presentation and a simple respect for fish and seafood.

Our starter is Oyster Soup with Cod Brandade, a decadent bowl of rich, velvety broth with a swirl of herb oil, skinny, salty samphire and a single fried oyster as garnish. A heavenly homage in a bowl.

• 

• 

• 

The main course is whole lemon sole (a member of the flatfish flounder family), served on the bone for deeper flavour and that buttery‑sweet texture only on‑the‑bone cooking delivers. It comes in a classic Sauce Véronique, white wine, cream and grapes,  light, gently acidic and straight from Escoffier. A very slight quibble: the dish would benefit from the grapes being halved, which helps their sweetness fold into the sauce. The dish is served with bowls of skin-on whole buttery potatoes. Simple, honest, perfect. 

And then comes dessert: a showstopping treat. Tavern‑sized glasses of Pineapple, Lime and Coconut Trifle,  the kind of portion that, like the main course, could easily feed two, giving you a sense of the generosity built into this £55 set menu. Pineapple may be good for digestion, and these tropical fruits carry their own dark Scottish history, but the trifle itself is all about indulgence. It is spectacular, and a glass of White Port is the perfect accompaniment, rich and golden but not cloyingly sweet.

• 

• 

• 

This was a fabulous meal, and the other heritage menus look equally special. A city‑centre location, historic splendour and easy ambience paired with excellent pescatarian fare ensure that this tavern and restaurant remains as popular as ever. Wear a bustle.

Café Royal has a run of themed dinners this autumn, the Victorian menu is on 3 October and the Edwardian menu on 24 October. There are also set heritage menus such as we had in September, October and November.