Channel 4 tonight! As I was channel hopping around the TV yesterday evening what should be on the Food Channel but the very first episode of The Great British Bake Off? Talk about serendipitous! As I watched that first encounter in the, now legendary, white tent, I couldn’t help feeling a tad proud that I and my fellow bakers from series 1 helped create a global phenomenon. Little did we know, that when we crossed the threshold of what is now baking hallowed ground, we would be founding a much-loved baking show. It has changed considerably over the 14 years, from being nomadic (a logistical nightmare for Love Productions, I'm sure – amazing concept, but impractical) to a more stable and permanent place on an estate in the Berkshire countryside. In that pioneering episode, the tent was smaller, there was no running water, there were less camera crew, the floor flexed as you walked across it (not good for the ovens or what was baking) and none of us knew how things were going to pan out; unlike today, we had no baseline to work from as it hadn’t been done before. Talk about rabbits in the headlights but we were excited, nervous, and, I don’t know about my fellow bakers, but I was terrified as my face showed. Mary and Paul were charming, Sue and Mel supportive and mischievous, but like the rest of us, no one knew how it would all work out.  I was in awe of my cohorts, their bakes seemed more complex and exciting than my pistachio and cranberry cake, which Mary didn’t like, both she and Paul said it was dry. It was a tough judgement that made me emotional, something I didn’t expect. There were no Hollywood Handshakes, no star bakers, and each technical section was timed with the judges prowling around us; I recall they left the tent as the Victoria sponges went into the ovens. There was a top three and a bottom three. I was in the latter. Our final bake wasn’t called a ‘showstopper’, but just went by its generic term. For a Chocolate Celebration Cake I made, what I now call my, ‘Carmen Miranda, Psycho Pineapple, Chocolate Celebration Cake’ - layered chocolate sponges filled with mascarpone and raspberries covered in ganache topped with chocolate-dipped fruit including a wedge of pineapple shoved in at a jaunty angle (to this day, I have no idea why!) with chopped pistachios round the outside. It may not have competed with the other bakers but Paul and Mary seemed to like.it . Alas, that didn’t save me from leaving the tent. Various people have commented that the first series was brutal compared to today’s version. It has developed into a quintessentially cosy British show albeit with global success and international spin-offs.  I was the first person from Scotland to be on the Bake Off and as such I was invited back into The Tent along with five other Scottish bakers for the Great New Year Bake Off, a Hogmanay Special. We all knew what to expect, we were there to have a fab time baking. I, for one, didn’t feel intimidated this time round, it was all about having fun, doing what we love, in a place that we respected, with another doyenne of baking, Prue Leith, crazy presenters Alison Hammond and Noel Fielding who not only thinks out the box but acts out the box too, and of course the Silver Fox, old blue eyes himself, Paul Hollywood. For your fix of soggy bottom innuendoes, tune in to Channel 4 at 7.40 this evening and see what high jinx we get up to. It will be a blast!

Scottish Seasonal Food My favourite part with cookbooks (apart from the recipes and good-looking photography) has to be the stories behind the recipes. This is one of the reasons I’ve enjoyed Sarah Rankin’s book, Kith (as in 'kith and kin'). The introduction is short, but you get a sense of this Masterchef finalist’s love and passion for food. It resonates with me, reminding me of my own family and friends. There is, of course, a housekeeping section of conversion tables, the firm foundations including recipes for basic sauces, stocks, bread, butter, pasta, creams and my favourite – pastry, covering shortcrust, puff, choux, hot watercrust but not filo; Sarah’s thoughts on this is,  “Are you serious!? Buy it!”, which is what most of us would do. Within these sections, we can glimpse into her kitchen, the kit she uses, and why. Sarah is a friendly face on the food festival circuit Kith is split into four seasons with other snippets, thoughts and ideas acting as supporting characters. At the start of each chapter, Sarah explains what each season means to her, from what’s available to musings on local suppliers and ingredients. Each recipe has a tale attached to it, a hint, a tip, and some of her gran’s recipes, including gingerbread, eclairs, marmalade, and tablet, each with childhood memories. Sarah is very much about local and seasonal, simple grub to posher endeavours, traditional Scottish staples to international dishes. Pasta and panna cotta sit happily next to skirlee bon-bons and clootie pudding. Kith is very much a homely and comforting collection of recipes that are easy to follow and can be as simple as a salad or a more elaborate ham hock terrine. Warmth and humour lurk within the pages of Sarah’s book, another reason why I love it. If, like me, you read cookbooks like a novel, then Kith is certainly for you. If you have someone in mind who would like Kith, it would make a fab present for Christmas. Now if you’ll excuse me, I'm off to make Sarah’s Granny’s Eclairs! Published by Birlinn Ltd., Edinburgh. www.birlinn.co.uk Photography by Katie Pryde.  www.katieprydephotography.co.uk

Christmas Gift alert! Scotland’s only Scotch malt whisky cream liqueur brand, Magnum , has launched a new winter wonderland experience on the rooftop bar of the iconic Cold Town House in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket.   Throughout December and into early January, the Magnum Winter Wonderland will offer stunning views of Edinburgh Castle and a magical setting to raise a glass to the festive season with family and friends. The Magnum Winter Wonderland at Cold Town House Hundreds of sparkling Christmas lights will illuminate Magnum Winter Wonderland, which includes a ski lift photo opportunity, faux fur blankets and cushions to keep people cosy on dark winter evenings.   The mixologists at Cold Town House have also created a choice of four Christmas cocktails made with Magnum to help keep guests warm from the inside out this winter, including Nutcracker, Banana Bread, Peanut Butter Cup and Madvocaat.   A Magnum shooter board inspired by Santa’s reindeer is available, including Rudolph (Magnum & Strawberry Liqueur), Dasher (Magnum & Banana Liqueur), Vixen (Magnum & Kahlua) and Prancer (Magnum & Peach Liqueur). Choose 10 Shots for £32 (Single £3.50).  Lee Schofield by Chris Watt Photography The innovative drinks brand is now the only cream liqueur exclusively crafted and bottled in Scotland using only the best single malt Scotch whisky from Speyside.   Magnum Director Lee Schofield said:  “We’re really excited to be working with our friends at Cold Town House to launch Magnum’s new rooftop bar experience in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket this Christmas. Once again, we’ve created a magical winter wonderland for people to celebrate the festive season with family and friends, whilst raising a glass to our truly Scottish brand. “As well as getting the chance to enjoy Magnum in the stunning backdrop of Edinburgh Castle, the Magnum Winter Wonderland will help people capture those perfect moments on Instagram or TikTok.” Magnum is a fusion of single-malt Scotch whisky and cream. Its superior ingredients and contemporary design sets it apart from traditional liqueurs. Smooth, creamy caramel notes play off single malt Speyside whisky for a balanced taste with a warming ginger afterglow.  Cocktails inc Nutcracker, Banana Bread, Peanut Butter Cup and Madvocaat Magnum comes in a unique stainless steel flask that is reusable and recyclable and also keeps the liqueur chilled at the optimum temperature, without the need for ice.   The new Magnum Winter Wonderland is now open seven days a week from 11.30 am until late on the rooftop bar of Cold Town House, 4 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2JU. Closed Christmas Day only.

Nigel Ovens - Scotland's current black pudding champion Britain’s finest black pudding makers are invited to participate in the ultimate butchers’ challenge – the first-ever Black Pudding UK Champion of Champions competition. The nationwide championship will pitch champion independent craft butchers from both sides of the Border in a head-to-head title race in London on February 26, 2025.   Staged by Scottish Craft Butchers (SCB), National Craft Butchers (NCB) and Q Guild of Butchers, the prestigious event at the capital’s Butchers’ Hall could become an annual or biennial battle. And it’s one that SCB Executive Manager Gordon King believes will represent the ultimate accolade for black pudding masters.   “Everyone invited to compete is a champion in their own right,” said Gordon, “so this really will be a battle of the Titans. “Black Pudding competitions are always fiercely fought events among our butchers and the upcoming UK title will be the one they all want to win – especially as it’s the first-ever champions’ showdown of its type.”   NCB MD, Eleanor O’Brien explained that the competition would pit a range of black puddings against each other.   “Black pudding recipes vary from region to region, so we are sure to see a wide variety of products in the championship line-up,” she said. “Some recipes date back generations and are much loved by our butchers’ customers.”   Among those invited to the UK event are 3 Gold Award winners from NCB’s Product Awards, five reigning regional champions in the Scottish Craft Butchers, and winners from the Q Guild Smithfield awards. This includes Scottish Black Pudding Champion Nigel Ovens from Wemyss Bay who has lifted the Scottish title an unprecedented four times with both his McCaskie and Pirie brands of the superfood and Craig Thomas, Martin Thomas Butchers whose Black pudding has won numerous national and international awards.   The event is sponsored by DB Foods and Sales Director George Holliday said: “This landmark event celebrates the skill, dedication, and passion that go into crafting one of Britain’s most iconic products,” he said.“As a leading name in the meat industry, we are thrilled to support this historic moment and recognize the very best in black pudding making.“Best of luck to all the talented participants—we can’t wait to see who takes home the title!"   The winner of the inaugural Black Pudding UK Champion of Champions competition will be announced on National Black Pudding Day – March 18, 2025.

Cool and functional with the emphasis on food. Creativity and quality aside, authenticity must surely be one of the hallmarks of good eating.  When we eat out, be it Italian, Asian, or French cuisine, we want unspoilt, uncompromised food of that culture; which locals eat.  Also, sometimes we want to be transported; to experience in as much as possible, in far-flung Edinburgh, how it feels to be sitting in a Madrid tapería, a noodle bar in Kyoto, a brasserie in the Auvergne or a chic cantina in Rome. Many eateries offer just that…that magical experience of, for a few hours, being surrounded by the language, aromas and customs of a different culture…we sit cross-legged on cushions; we eat at long refectory tables; we drool a​s huge aromatic platters and casseroles arrive and wait eagerly as tiny cups are filled with steaming broths and chunks of something glistening and oozing. We prick up our ears at the language of Naples spoken by staff in a restaurant on a very ordinary Scottish street. We embrace a way of addressing food in a Nigerian restaurant amidst a clutch of traditional Scottish pubs and smooth coffee stops in Leith, which is totally different from how we eat every other day in our homes. And our life experience is all the more heightened by it. We come away light of heart! Noodles Home, in Nicolson Street, conveniently located just across from Edinburgh’s Festival Theatre, is a silent, rich treasure coveted by those” in the know”. Ask anyone well-travelled throughout Asia where you can get the best Chinese food in Edinburgh and they will give you the quiet nod. This is a simple, no-fuss eatery and, a clear departure from old-style Chinese restaurants. No sweet and sour chicken or chow mein here, Noodles Home, one of several new-wave Asian pit stops is right on trend… cool and functional where the emphasis is on the food.  Here in Edinburgh’s Southside, with a head-spinning choice of eating offers, amidst lone eaters, intent on their phones, happy chatty students on a budget, bright-eyed young couples and a mainly Asian clientèle… here, be noodles, dumplings, wontons in profusion. They come in richly flavoured broths, so good you just want to drink straight from the large bowl in front of you; in the griddle or steam pots layered with crispy fried fish, or filled and topped with as many vegetables as you can manage; in bubbling aromatic stews, or stir-fried. And there are salads too, offering delightful surprises, crisp with pert cucumbers paired with slabs of silken tofu or spicy beef. All the noodles are freshly made on the premises, hand-pulled, hand-sliced hand hand-moulded, udon or extra thin vermicelli. The dumplings and wontons are also homemade and come in broths or dry. There’s a wonderful choice of rice bowls and, if carbs are not your bag, grills to suit both the more and less adventurous of us.  On a recent visit, I chose Chongquing hand-moulded spicy noodles, with pak choi, and broccoli topped with fresh peanuts. The noodles are soft and yielding, greens al dente; and the tofu richly infused with a sauce/broth, substantial enough to coat the ingredients, light enough to be instantly quaffable, which I do without shame. There is no need for wine or beer, but jasmine tea is a perfect, clean accompaniment.  And on the agenda for a future visit, sooner and not later, is the grilled, spicy, Chinese bread, street food style, charcoal grilled; certainly a first for me.  14a Nicolson Street, Edinburgh, EH8 9DH - 0131 563 1488

A joyous ambience at Thamel Thamel is a Nepalese restaurant, named after an area in Kathmandu, on the large curvy corner where  East London Street meets Broughton Street. The site is remembered for once being a launderette and, from memory, it has also housed The Lost Sock Diner, Bella Mbriana, and The Riparian. None of these eateries have stuck but Thamel is turning tables when we visit like a street hawker dealing hash to seventies hippies in the eponymous tourist district of Kathmandu. It’s an icy night, so we welcome the warm decor evoking sun-dried spices: chilli-coloured walls, turmeric and cardamom-hued light shades, and mint green plastic foliage. My dining partner and I are recovering from winter ills, so we ordered non-alcoholic drinks. I have a zero-zero Heineken while Connie's mocktail is a complex Seedlip-based Gimlet in a hammered copper cup.  Mocktails and non-alcoholic beer are available Thamel is a convivial place to catch up with an old pal. We order Fish Poori (tacos) from the small plate selection to pique our appetite. They are served upright in a stainless steel rack and the filling is wrapped in soft chapati rather than in a crisp tortilla. Fatty salmon cubes are balanced by herbs and mint chutney. Portions are generous, so this shared starter proves plenty and when we are served our Kathmandu Lamb and Manchurian Chicken Chilli we note (top tip) that one portion would again feed two, especially with sides. My Kathmandu curry is cooked in a sauce of spinach, lentils, and whole spices. The gravy is rich but offset by the addition of subtle piquant pickles, which add an off-piste flavour dimension. A deep umami-like comforting deliciousness is the result, and I would be hard-pressed not to order it again. Flavours are gently blended, and the only fierceness in Thamel is the tiger emblem. Bounteous glossy chunks of chicken in Connie’s dish are jumbled with fruity red bell peppers and onions, and she comments that if you shut your eyes, it would be a challenge to call Indian or Chinese. This Indo-Chinese touch is scarce but present, adding interest to a quite complex and exciting menu. There is a wide range of spices and herbs used, and we comment more than once as we read the details of dishes that we don’t know what a certain ingredient is. I note that Chow Mein is offered at lunchtime. My antennae prick up when cocktails are served to the next table. One is a smoky potion in a glass with a handle that curls like a serpent. Very theatrical. Relaxed Bossa Nova tunes meanwhile are the langurous soundtrack to our evening.  We decide to share a subcontinental twist on Tiramisu: thick cream, a very moist sponge and chai syrup with a pretty purple violet as garnish. It is in no way Italian, but it does pick us up for the walk home as someone is waiting for our table - lucky devils. I would happily eat at Thamel all over again; it is a warm, colourful, cheerful restaurant that caters to all tastes, whether you are drinking, not drinking, carnivore, pescatarian, vegetarian or vegan. It is also an example of the elevated standards of cuisine that we are lucky enough to enjoy in contemporary Edinburgh.

Enjoy this quiz - just for fun! Edinburgh has five Michelin-starred restaurants this year. The Kitchin, Martin Wishart, and Condita kept their stars. Name one of the two new honorees. Concord, cotton candy, sultana and Fragola are all types of what? In October, a man was arrested following the theft of £300,000 worth of cheese from a specialist shop. Which cheese was targeted? Parmesan Stilton Cheddar Camembert Sticking with cheese, the annual cheese-rolling race takes place every May in Gloucestershire. Participants tumble down a hill in pursuit of a 9lb wheel of which cheese? How many mince pies does the average person in the UK eat every year? The 1981 song “Christmas Wrapping” by the Waitresses recounts a year of missed opportunities with a prospective love interest. It also lists 3 different foods. Can you name them? (Hint: one is very tenuous.) Tony Chocoloney makes delicious, Wonka-esque chocolate bars. But why are the bars divided into uneven pieces, rather than squares? According to Ocado, hot sauce is a growing food trend. But which celeb does not have a hot sauce brand? Brooklyn Beckham Oprah Winfrey Ed Sheeran Alice Cooper A luxury pop-up champagne bar recently opened in the Newcastle branch of Fenwicks. Inspired by 1920s Parisian wine bars, it pairs fizz with snacks from which high street food outlet? Christingle services are common in Advent. What fruit is used to make a Christingle?

As Arla Foods Company announces trials of Bovaer, a feed additive purporting to reduce cow's methane emissions, a baking session showcasing unhomogenized Jersey Gold Top Milk is timely.  One can go to several places when talking about Bovaer, but let’s stick with the benefits of natural milk. Graham’s The Family Dairy has a Christmas campaign  #makeitagoldchristmas to showcase Jersey Gold Top Milk.  Unhomogenised, means the fat is allowed to settle at the top of the bottle rather than being dispersed throughout the milk, giving you natural cream to enjoy. It also dispenses with one layer of processing. The milk is the product of a herd of  Windsor cows, ‘The Golden Girls’, that graze on pasture, which they ferment in their stomachs. All the goodness of minerals and vitamins is retained, resulting in milk high in fat, protein, and calcium.  We are at the Edinburgh New Town Cookery School , (Christmas gift alert), under the careful eye of Chef Fiona to learn why Jersey Gold Top Milk is great for Christmas cooking.  A festive clafoutis, bread and butter pudding and custard put this proposition to the test.  This domestic science habitat soon leads to rounds of weighing, mixing, beating, whisking, boiling and other scary things that make me feel I am on GBBO and possibly publicly failing. But the creamy viscosity of the Gold Top covers many of my failings and the results are delicious.  The baked, creamy batter of the clafoutis is rich, and the aromatic whisky custard is the best I’ve had. Ditto for the bread and butter pudding. Pasture is all cows need to turn grass into one of the most nutritious and delicious foods. Seaweed can reduce cow methane, but grazing cows already regenerate the soil with their hooves churning it and providing insects and worms for other animals and birds to feed on. Cows provide free manure, making grass grow and creating a natural carbon store. Factory farming has high water grain costs and carbon emissions. Cows are stewards of our land. Dr Graham says, "Happy cows make happy milk." So we say,  support our dairy farmers and their produce and if you are baking, by all means, make it a gold Christmas.

Hospitality Health is proud to announce the relaunch of its Wellness Charter, an essential initiative supporting mental health and wellbeing across Scotland’s hospitality sector. The Wellness Charter is a commitment to prioritising mental health and wellbeing within the hospitality industry. It recognises businesses that foster supportive, inclusive, and open workplace environments, where care and respect for employees are at the forefront. By joining the Charter, businesses pledge to uphold principles that promote mental health, such as providing proactive support for mental health, training managers in mental health awareness, offering resources like Employee Assistance Programmes, and encouraging a positive work-life balance. Certification symbolizes leadership in employee wellness, reflecting a dedication to creating thriving teams and contributing to a wider movement for a healthier, more inclusive hospitality industry. The refreshed campaign features vibrant illustrations that blend photography with stylized design, evoking warmth and relatability. Subtle yet ever-present, these visuals symbolize the steady, accessible support offered by the Wellness Charter, inviting open conversations about mental health nationwide. With 10 Scottish hospitality businesses already on board, including Crerar Hotels and Buzzworks, the Wellness Charter provides resources and guidance for creating healthier, supportive workplaces where employees feel valued. By expanding the charter’s reach, Hospitality Health is helping employers nurture positive work environments, strengthen team morale, and highlight the rewarding career paths available within hospitality. Founder of Hospitality Health, Gordon McIntyre MBE said: "We are committed to ensuring that no one in hospitality faces mental health challenges alone. Through our Wellness Charter, we hope to inspire more businesses to join us in fostering a culture that puts people first, enabling a healthier, more supportive workplace for all." Chris Wayne-Wills from Crerar Hotels Group said: "Joining the Wellness Charter has helped us to reshape our approach to employee wellbeing, creating a stronger, more engaged team. Hospitality Health’s support has been invaluable in making our workplace one where mental wellness is a true priority." The relaunched Wellness Charter and refreshed brand identity were brought to life by Thiss Away, a hospitality brand agency. Their illustrations and new logo highlight the positive impact of mental wellness in the hospitality sector. Hannah Whitehead, Senior Designer at Thiss Away, expressed her support for Hospitality Health’s mission: "Working with Hospitality Health has been incredibly rewarding. We believe mental health deserves visibility across all industries, and we’re proud to create designs that help make support accessible and approachable for hospitality professionals." Arden Marketing project managed the marketing and campaign creatives for the relaunch, ensuring a cohesive and impactful delivery of the Wellness Charter’s mission across multiple touchpoints. Impress Print Services Ltd has generously provided pull-up banners and collateral, enhancing the visibility and accessibility of Hospitality Health’s important work to support mental wellness across Scotland. To learn more about the Wellness Charter and how to participate, please contact enquiries@hospitalityhealth.org.uk and visit www.hospitalityhealth.org.uk

Music industry maverick  John Spence managed bands including Bananarama, Culture Club, and the Eurythmics in the 1980s. Now, he runs the global Karma Group of hotels and, the Lake of Menteith Hotel  in the Trossachs is part of his salubrious list of 46 resorts on every continent, all characterised by stunning locations. In Scotland, beautiful places abound so you forget what is on your doorstep. A mere hour from the airports and central belt, you can be in this luxurious hotel on the tranquil shores of Scotland’s only man-made lake. A lake well stocked with rainbow and brown trout. The hotel is an eighteen-bedroom property with a traditional bar and open fireplace, a glass-fronted restaurant, a lakeside terrace and a Malt Vault for whisky aficionados. We visit for Sunday lunch and scan the menu while watching the wildlife and a couple of hardy fishermen on the lake. The view is beautiful as the colours change constantly with Scotland’s moody weather.  Joe Peden is the chef who recently returned from a trip to India, so there is a menu from the subcontinent, but we opt for Scottish cuisine. Indecision initially reigns as all the dishes tempt; eventually, Mr. Bite chooses Stornoway Scallops with a parmesan, hazelnut, and bacon dressing, and for me, Ayrshire Pulled Pork Croquettes.  The croquettes' presentation indicates what will follow; a plate adorned with purple edible violets, cerise radish, green leaves, a streak of damson puree, and a salmon-coloured crisp. When it comes to taste, the fried rolls’ casings break with a satisfying crack, revealing a generous packing of juicy meat, while smoked apple sauce adds a traditional Sunday lunch touch.  For the main course, Mr Bite has Duck with Buckfast Pearls, introducing an element of molecular gastronomy. The sticky fortified wine complements the pink succulent game. My venison haunch comes with a puck of rumble thumps, roasted roots and plenty of fruity jus. Pinot Noir Les Volets is packed with summer strawberry flavour. We are only flesh and blood and have a side of skin on chips with parmesan shavings perfumed with truffle oil. Desserts keep up a standard that leads Mr. Bite to comment … “The best meal I’ve had this year." Red velvet cookie dough is baked to order in a small terrine and is at turns crispy, gooey, warm and just fab with cool Arran vanilla ice cream. My spiced rum and coke cake is a clever twist of sticky toffee pudding. We visited the day after Storm Bert and the restaurant was fairly empty reflecting the conditions, though a steady stream of tourists were checking in. I am sure they will all opt to dine at Karma; the cuisine consistently applies creativity to local produce elevating dishes to a fine dining status. (S. Wilson). Karma Lake of Menteith -  Port of Menteith, Stirling FK8 3RA, United Kingdom  - +44 (0) 1877 385258

Born in Glasgow in 1948, Ken McCulloch became one of  Scotland’s most successful and innovative Hoteliers.    He began his career with British Transport Hotels as a young Commis Chef, working in the kitchens at The Malmaison restaurant in Glasgow’s Central Hotel and then at the Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire.     After a short period with Stakis Hotels, he stepped out on his own and opened La Bonne Auberge, a wine bar in the Park Circus area of Glasgow, before making his way to Royal Exchange Square where he opened the famous Charlie Parker’s wine bar and restaurant.   In 1986 he put Glasgow’s name on the map as a global destination when he opened the city’s first boutique hotel, One Devonshire Gardens, with his award-winning interior designer wife,  Amanda Rosa. It was the most luxurious hotel in Scotland and with Andrew Fairlie as Head Chef, the hotel gained a Michelin star in 1996.     He then went on to create the Malmaison Hotel Group, whose first hotel opened in Edinburgh in 1994, and m after four successful years, he sold up and moved to Monaco, where he and Amanda bought the Abela Hotel with business partner racing driver David Coulthard. This became the Columbus Hotel, which opened to international acclaim.   He and Amanda then created Dakota Hotels, launching the successful hotel group in 2004 before returning home to Glasgow in 2009.    An independent thinker, his passion for creating 'hotels with a difference' saw him become an ambassador for Scotland. He praised the attention to detail and once said the best advice he ever received was from Fernand Point, chef of the Michelin-starred Le Pyramide near Lyon: “Success is the sum of many small things correctly done”     With such an illustrious and successful career spanning over five decades, it was advice that Ken followed to the letter.

Scotland is showing off her autumnal majesty when we visit the Perth and Kinross area for a weekend jaunt. Known as ‘Big Tree Country’  we visit The Birnam Oak which is 500 years old and features in ‘The Scottish Play’. A Sunday walk along the silvery ‘Tay’ and we are shin-deep in crispy leaves.  Our home for the weekend is   The Red House Hotel  in Coupar Angus. It is a functional hotel with leisure facilities, a bar, a restaurant and, somewhat bizarrely, a squash court in the lounge bar. We take advantage; 5:2 to Mr Bite. Our room is spacious and warm and the hotel is well-placed and competitively priced for all the activities the area offers such as cycling, walking, fishing and sightseeing. There is an Italian hunting party staying when we visit. The food is pedestrian and filling; there are much better eateries around and The Dalmore Inn which shares owners with The Red House has to be one of the best.  We first visited immediately post-covid and I wondered if my memory of Chef Iain Naysmith’s food had been influenced by deprivation. A second visit confirms that the answer is a resounding no - Iain’s cooking is special.  Mr Bite orders a potato and smoked garlic soup from the specials menu which warms the cockles while I tuck into a generous portion of salmon rillettes with mackerel pate as fresh as if the fish had leapt from one of the nearby rivers, The Tay or The Isla,  onto my plate. Garnishes of cucumber, dill and butter-drenched crostini demonstrate chef kens what he is doing.  For my main course, sea bream fillet sits on a plate of langoustine risotto cooked in fish stock. Fat shellfish squat here too and tomatoes are stuffed with  Provençal ratatouille. Thick discs of pork belly come with a copper pot of cider apple gravy, carrots confit have a herby crust and fondant potatoes are puffy light inside a crispy case. Portions are hearty.  When in berry country, order dessert! A redcurrant sorbet is mouth-puckeringly good although billed as a mere accompaniment to chocolate and Drambuie cremeux with a cracknel-style honey nut flapjack. I have a bosomy whisky and honey mousse with salted caramel ice cream, shortbread and raspberries; a dessert that has everything.  Hospitality these days too often has to tighten its belt and cut corners but this is not the case at The Dalmore; rather Iain Naysmith pulls out all the stops (he does have Le Gavroche on his CV).   This modest Gastro pub should be heaving at Sunday lunchtime. My only criticism is that the portions are too big. No worries, you can walk it off or build an appetite with many of the walks nearby. The Dalmore is an archetypal hidden gem.