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Sotto means ‘under’ in Italian, and this new trattoria is located beneath the eponymous establishment’s wine bar or ‘enoteca’ on Deanhaugh Street in Stockbridge. The double-storied building, with its terracotta exterior walls and green awnings, resembles an Italian eatery you might find in London, New York, or Rome. The colour scheme exudes Italian warmth even on a chilly February evening and is full of promise.
It’s the brainchild of James Clark, the former general manager of Divino Enoteca, with support from chef Francesco Ascrizzi, whose pedigree includes Divino Enoteca, Mono, and Tipo, among other esteemed Edinburgh kitchens.
When I visit, I am initially seated in the busy upstairs enoteca where boldly coloured prints adorn the walls. I want to try the Salami and the Formaggi with honey and oat cakes. However, upon arrival, my friend informs me that we are going downstairs to the restaurant due to a wine-tasting event in the bar. We have a charming private dining space and enjoy the Italian way of eating - snacks, antipasti, primi, secondi, and dolci.
One of the most daring dishes I have seen on an Edinburgh menu catches my eye, and I immediately order the deep-fried artichoke. There is no gilding of the lily here; this impressive vegetable covers my plate, its charred leaves clawing upward. Accompanied by a wedge of lemon and anchovy dressing, this is authentic, delicious, and honest food. Our table is further graced with Focaccia and Trapanese Pesto (tomatoes, almonds, pecorino), so tasty that one small bite satiates.
Kevin and Connie have Spaghetti ai Gamberi and Lamb Ragu, respectively. I sneak some tasty forkfuls; the spaghetti is made with an intense stock while Connie’s Ragu is deliciously meaty and satisfying. Nebbiolo, and other wines from Piedmont alongside Pecorino complement our meal.
Monkfish for the main course is a beautifully cooked robust fillet served with what we think is a too-rich, too-heavy creamy velouté. A crown of feathery tempura samphire, however, is a touch of genius. Then comes Fig and Walnut Gelato, a simple, classy dessert. Sotto stays true to its roots, serving earthy food where produce is appreciated. This is exemplified in Kevin's Nduja breaded Pork Chop, Mustard Mayo.
Service is attentive and friendly throughout, with hands-on oversight from James. There is a genuine desire to please the customer. The place buzzes upstairs and down, creating an ambiance befitting a trattoria. Return visits are guaranteed.
Sotto, 28-32 Deanhaugh Street, Edinburgh, EH4 1LY.
