Q&A with chef Scott Smith

Scott Smith (left) with John Howard of The Òir Group (right) – photo credit: Alix McIntosh

The Captain Darling has officially opened its doors in Stockbridge – and Edinburgh chef Scott Smith has been helping with the launch (along with The Òir Group), working behind the scenes to create their pub dishes, including Sunday roast and savoury pies. Here, he chats to Bite about classic fare and cooking superpowers.

When did you first realise you wanted to be a chef?

I grew up around good food. My mum had an extensive garden at our Aberdeenshire home, and I was always involved, helping to harvest and prepare the produce. My first job was on the pot wash in a busy brasserie in Aberdeen. I would watch the excitement of the kitchen during service, and knew it was something I wanted to be a part of.

Who inspired your work and career?

My mum and gran were certainly early influences. Being brought up in an environment that was all about fresh, organic produce was something I took for granted. As well as the multitude of well-known chefs I looked up to in the industry, it was Geoffrey Smeddle from The Peat Inn who inspired me the most – not just in the cooking and treatment of the produce, but also in how to look after your team. Many of the lessons I learnt during my time there are still things I practise.

I’ve now spent the past 21 years working in the industry. All very varied: Michelin-starred kitchens, pubs, bistros. Over the past 10 years, I’ve owned and run two restaurants in Edinburgh, Norn and Fhior.

What drew you to this new Stockbridge venture?

I’ve always wanted to be involved in a pub. I love being able to use the knowledge I’ve gained over the years and apply that to humble pub food, making sure it retains its comfort and familiarity while paying attention to the quality and details. When I was offered the opportunity to consult on this opening, I jumped at it.

Whether it’s pub food or fine dining, it comes down to the produce and not overcomplicating things. I always think about how to make something more interesting by playing with contrasts in texture, temperature and tastes.

What’s your favourite dish on the menu?

I’m just a huge prawn cocktail fan. So although the menu is great and well-balanced, I have to say it’s our prawn cocktail. We’ve used puffed grains throughout the iceberg lettuce for texture contrast and an intense langoustine emulsion at the bottom to give the prawn flavour a big boost. It's a good example of taking a classic and not making it over-the-top or unfamiliar, but lifting the details.

What’s the culinary style of The Captain Darling?

Humble, uncomplicated and comforting – minimal effort for maximum impact.

What makes a successful Edinburgh eatery?

Cater for the locals. Edinburgh is vibrant, but it’s also a seasonal city. If you forget to look after your locals and offer good value, you’ll struggle in the colder months.

If you could have a cooking superpower, what would it be?

That the dishes do themselves.

Contact details

16 to 18 Hamilton Place, Edinburgh EH3 5AU +44 (0)131 563 0404

Opening hours

Monday to Sunday: 12pm to 12am