By Lea Harris February saw my wedding anniversary and I was lucky enough to be whisked away to Malta. I wasn't too impressed but the island and its people grew on me and so did the amazing food they grow. Golf ball sized strawberries were so sweet, juicy and packed full of strawberriness; amazing wild thyme honey, fish and seafood that made my jaw drop. But best of all were the amount of wild herbs growing in the hedgerows. Banks of wild fennel, tussocks of thyme and prickly pears, it got me thinking to the wild food that soon would be sprouting up in our neck of the woods. I remember last year, walking along the Water of Leith, the whiff of garlic, subtle with pungent bouts as the wind carried the scent to my quivering nose. I was overjoyed when I spied this tasty treat. My car reeked with its pongy perfume for days! It's not as strong as the bulbs; the flavour is mild, almost sweet. Use it in place of the traditional stuff. It's versatile, makes a good soup or sauce but I like it in a pesto that can be used in so many ways - just use your imagination! Wild Garlic Pesto 2 large handfuls of wild garlic 2oz nuts or seeds or a mix (walnuts work well, but any nut will do) 2 oz hard dry cheese (Parmesan, hard goat or ewe) finely grated 7 fl oz oil (take your pick; I like Summer Harvest rapeseed) Pinch salt and sugar Method Pick over the garlic, remove any tough stalks. Give it a quick rinse and shake dry. There are two ways to make this pesto, rough 'n' rustic or fine 'n' fancy. Either coarsely chop the garlic and nuts, mix in the cheese, sugar and salt. Add ¾ of the oil and stir. Alternatively - blitz garlic, nuts and ¾ oil in a food processor then as above. You can store in sterilised jar with a slick of the remaining oil on top or keep in a bowl topped with oil. Both must be kept in the fridge and when you use it, mix in the oil. Any leftover pesto, return to the fridge with more oil covering it.

By Lea Harris The beauty of June is the start of the soft fruit season and the most-prized of these, to me, has to be the cherry. Who didn't, as a child, tuck conjoined cherries over their ears as earrings? I still do! In my teenage years, I had a boyfriend who lived in Kent and the family home was called Cherry Trees. The front garden was bordered by, strangely enough, cherry trees! The great thing about them was they were fruit producing. We'd sit in the garden, seeing who could spit the pits furthest. I wonder if they ended up with an orchard in the back garden.His mum was a dab hand at making the most of the ruby beauties; from a stunning cherry almond cake to copious jars of preserves. She'd stuff a bottle of brandy with the wee darlings ready for to feed her marvellous Christmas cake from the beginning of November. Today we don't see many native breeds; I remember cherries that were pale yellow flecked with red from Kent, but now the almost black imports swamp the shops throughout the year. There are some deep purple varieties grown in Scotland - a joy to eat with ricotta for breakfast. This month's recipe is inspired by my love of ricotta and cherries - the latter can be replaced with raspberries or blueberries. Cherry, Pistachio, Ricotta Cake 3oz/75g caster sugar 1 large egg 4 tbsp melted butter 3oz/75g self raising flour 2oz/50g toasted and finely blitzed pistachio nuts Topping 9oz/250g fresh cherries, pitted 3oz/75g icing sugar 9oz/250g ricotta cheese 5oz/150g sour cream 1 large egg 1 tsp amaretto or almond essence Method Line an 8in/20cm round or 9in/23cm square tin with greaseproof paper. Whisk the first three ingredients until thick and creamy. Mix the flour and nuts together, then fold into the whisked egg mix. Plop mixture into tin and smooth top. Bake in pre-heated oven 180C/Fan160C/Gas4. Topping Chuck cherries onto kitchen paper to soak up juice. Plop all the topping ingredients into a bowl (excl cherries) and beat until smooth. Fold in cherries and spread over base and bake for further 20-25 minutes until top is just set. Cool in tin and then serve with ice cream - chocolate works well!

By Vikki Jones Broad beans have a rep for being a bit tricky. When should you pick them? Should you shell them? And is it really necessary to remove the skins? With all these questions it is no wonder so many reach for the bag of frozen ones. In truth, however, anything goes - different cuisines favour different sizes and cooking methods. Italians eat them raw with pecorino cheese and the French use small beans and eat them whole, steamed in their pods. They're wonderfully creamy in risotto with salty bacon, or blended with garlic and mint as a dip. If you have space, it's worth growing your own so you can use these sweet and delicious beans at any stage you like, from pea-sized to fully grown. The only thing to remember is the bigger they are, the less of the plant you can eat. For large beans, around 1kg will give you a shelled and skinned weight of about 300g. Put don't let this put you off - shelling beans in the summer sun is very therapeutic! The recipe below comes from Sarah Raven's Garden Cookbook (Bloomsbury), which is a fantastic book for anyone wanting to make the most of seasonal food. The beauty of this salad is its simplicity - just a few store-cupboard ingredients and fresh herbs will make something delicious in minutes. Vary the herbs according what you have available, either from the shops or your own garden. Sarah Raven's Warm Broad Bean Salad- (Serves 6) 400g (shelled weight) broad beans 1 tbsp chopped mint 2 tbsp chopped chervil ½ tsp chopped tarragon 2 spring onions, finely chopped 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 100ml extra virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp chopped parsley, to serve Method 1 Cook the broad beans in boiling water for approximately five minutes, depending on their size. 2 Drain and rinse under cold water to stop them cooking. If you're using larger beans, remove the skins as these will be tough. 3 Mix the vinegar, spring onion, mint, chervil and tarragon in a bowl. Whisk in the olive oil, reserving one tablespoon. 4 Gently heat the remaining oil in a pan. Add the broad beans and toss until warm. 5 Transfer to a serving dish, add the dressing and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

By Lea Harris Over the past few months, I've been lucky enough to have travelled to Tbilisi in Georgia, stopping off in Istanbul for a few days on my way back home. The markets in both cities are just phenomenal and have made me realise just how much we have lost a connection with our food. It's great that our farmers' markets allow us to talk about where the food we buy comes from but the meat is all vac-packed. Being a butcher's daughter, I grew up with sides of beef being lugged through the shop into the cold room. Today this activity is rarely seen, but in Tbilisi and Istanbul, it's an everyday occurrence. Not everyone's cup of tea, I know, to see lights (liver, lungs and heart) hanging in a window like grotesquely beautiful flowers; my immediate reaction was, I wonder if the locals know about haggis? Down on the shores of the Bosphorus you'll find stall after stall of men cooking and selling mackerel sandwiches. The cooks taking almost surgical care of removing as many bones as possible before shoving the charred fish into fresh bread, slapping on a tangy salad of tomatoes, onions and herbs with a good squeeze of lemon and a dash of pomegranate molasses. You need to pick your chef carefully, some cook with a fag hanging out the corner of their mouth! Nothing beats freshly bbq'd mackerel, so when the sun's shining, sit back chomping on the perfect summer sarnie! Mackerel Sarnies 2 mackerel fillets per person Rolls or your favourite bread Tomatoes, spring onions, herbs to taste Rocket Lemon Salt, pepper Oil Pomegranate molasses  • Chop tomatoes, onions and herbs, mix then leave for ½ hour for flavours to meld. • Brush fish with oil, season with salt and pepper and place skin side down on bbq or griddle pan. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes each side. • Shove the fish into a warmed roll or lightly toasted bread. Cram in the salad, rocket with a squeeze of lemon and a drizzle of pomegranate molasses.  Have napkins at the ready to catch juices that dribble down the chin!

By Lea Harris Several years ago my husband made elderflower wine. It tasted like floral white spirit and, unfortunately, produced a toxic hangover. So, it with trepidation that I approach this month's seasonal offering. But there's something about the unique blossomy, sweet yet tangy taste of elderflowers that signifies the start of British summer time, so I've resolved to give this humble plant another chance to impress. There must be something good about it - it's been revered for its healing properties and ability to ward off evil spirits for centuries. It's also rumoured to relieve the symptoms of both asthma and flu. Freshly picked flower heads from your garden, the local park, or even by the roadside can be deep fried in batter and served with ice cream or added to a glaze for a succulent joint of roast lamb. For the more adventurous, try elderflowers stewed with gooseberries and white wine as a sauce for mackerel or herring. Left to ferment naturally, elderflowers can be turned into a very British version of Champagne; however, after sampling one homemade wine offering, I'm not going to recommend you try it! This non-alcoholic cordial is probably a safer bet, but I might just be tempted to add it to a martini if the mood takes me. Elderflower cordial (Makes around 2.5 litres) 2.5 kg white sugar 35 elderflower heads 2 litres water 3 lemons 100g citric acid (available from chemists and brewing shops) Slowly bring the sugar and water to the boil in a large pan. Meanwhile, check the elderflower heads for any bugs or bits and pieces and remove them (there's no need to wash them). Place them in a large bowl. Zest the lemons and sprinkle this over the flowers, then quarter the lemons and add them to the bowl. When the sugar syrup is boiling, stir it to make sure all the sugar is dissolved and use a ladle to pour it over the flowers.  Stir in the citric acid and cover with a plate or tea towel. Leave the mixture overnight. The next day, strain the cordial through some muslin or a very fine sieve and pour into glass bottles. And there you have it, a taste of summer that will last all year.

By Sharon Wilson Harajuku Kitchen is a neighbourhood bistro run by award-winning chef Kaori Simpson.  Authentic Japanese cuisine is served here based on family recipes passed down to Kaori by her grandparents. When I arrive I note the many Japanese folk dipping at their food with chopsticks; always a good sign.  Expertly conceived and crafted, sushi is a tasty art form but there is more to this Asian cuisine. So I invited fellow foody Kerry to join me for dinner. Kerry is allergic to fish and seafood so I was keen to see if she would rate Harajuku as highly as a fish lover like me does. Pork Gyoza Dumplings were her starter of choice made from free-range Scottish pork and served with a chilli soy sauce. She described them as being ‘a firm favourite, which have queues around the block at the Stockbridge Market’ and she called this evening’s offerings ‘little dumplings of pure pleasure that oozed flavour’. Cucumber Kimchi on the side was refreshing and piquant. Fermentation is a great way to preserve veg and it also has the bonus of producing umami; the taste receptor discovered by chemistry professor, Kikunae Ikeda at Tokyo University 1908.  The kimchi was from the daily specials board as were my scallops, presented in their natural shell and sweetly caramelised. I demolished them as swiftly as the swipe of a Geisha’s fan.  I ordered the ‘Californian’ Futomaki Roll with pink salmon and creamy jade avocado for my main and a coating of day-glo green fish roe sparkled and popped in my mouth like old fashioned space dust. Kerry had some pure comfort food in the shape of Tonkatsu Curry, panko breaded free-range chicken breast served with rice and miso soup.  She gave the miso a swerve but described the chicken as just perfect. We both had the chef's special of fried bao bun. Served with coconut sorbet for Kerry she thought it ‘delicious but just a tad too naughty after curry’ so she left half the bun, but ‘did justice to the coconut sorbet’, which was ‘very refreshing and palate- cleansing’. My bun came with green tea ice cream and I had no issue shamelessly polishing off the lot.  Harajuku has one AA Rosette from Michelin but is very reasonably priced and I concluded from our visit that is can indeed be recommended for sushi lovers and meat eaters alike. Harajuku Kitchen 10 Gillespie Place 0131 281 05 26 Mon-Fri 12 noon- 3pm, 5pm-10pm; Sat & Sun 12 noon-11pm www.harajukukitchen.co.uk

By Diana Spencer "Would beef carpaccio and rib-eye steak be bovine overload do you think?” My dining partner asked as we perused the tempting menu at La P’tite Folie on a Saturday evening. Possibly, but I was too distracted by trying to decide if mussels followed by king scallops would be overdoing the shellfish. In the end we resisted our initial impulses and varied our choices, mussels and venison for me, cheese soufflé and steak for him. One of the joys of Edinburgh is being able to discover a new favourite eatery every week (cash flow allowing). I had obviously seen the beautiful ‘Tudor House’ building, but despite the inviting exterior and excellent customer reviews, had never been to La P’tite Folie. I’m so glad I have now rectified this error as it was a culinary delight that I will certainly be repeating! The mussels were plump and fresh, served in a delicious shallot, cider and camembert cream sauce; I was informed that the ‘twice baked Roquefort cheese soufflé with walnuts’ was also excellent and predictably "very cheesy”. The loin of red deer venison was beautifully presented and served with red cabbage, greens and new potatoes in a gin and blackberry jus. It was rich, sweet and balanced, with a slight tartness from the blackberries cutting through the other strong flavours – the essence of autumn on a plate. The ‘35 days dry-aged ribeye steak’ was served with gratin dauphinoise, wild mushrooms and tarragon jus, and although perhaps not the best steak (there are so many excellent steak restaurants in Edinburgh after all), my companion said it was one of the most perfectly flavoured meals he’d ever eaten. The portions were generous and we were pretty stuffed, but had to sample the crème brulee, as this seems to be the standard by which all French restaurants shall be judged. We were not disappointed, the desert had the ideal proportions of creamy vanilla to slightly bitter, sweet crackly topping. The building also houses wine bar Le Di-Vin, another new discovery for me, and the ideal place to relax and digest with a glass or two of something. La P'tite Folie 9 Randolph Place, Edinburgh, EH2 1LH 0131 225 8678 12pm - 3pm / 6pm - 10pm (11pm Fri & Sat) / Closed Sun www.laptitefolie.co.uk

By Phil Cook You could be forgiven for thinking you had been transported to a little bistro somewhere in Paris or Lyon as you take in the surroundings of l'escargot bleu. The restaurant, which opened in 2008, sits towards the foot of Broughton Street and prides itself on delivering the best of French cooking with a Scottish twist. Greeted warmly and (gratefully) presented with a Kir Royale, we munched on our tasty amuse bouche of pan fried frog's legs as we ordered from a menu that you could have spent all day choosing from, such was the variety. I opted for le steak tartare de boeuf Dexter (£7.90) and Sarah chose la salade de chevreuil fumè (£6.90). Our waiter approached the table with a host of ingredients and began creating the steak tartare to my requirements in full view of the restaurant - a great touch. The tartare was exquisite and you could taste all of the eight or so ingredients in it. Classic French food at its finest. The smokiness of Sarah's venison thankfully didn't overpower the taste of the tender meat itself and was complemented by a perfectly poached pear and sweet shallot whilst a balsamic dressing added a welcome note of acidity. My main of la blanquette de veau rosè (£18.90), a real classic of bourgeois cookery, was ideal for an autumn evening.  The rich, buttery sauce coated the neatly turned potatoes while the veal was lovely and tender.  Like the spuds, the rainbow carrots were still al dente and seasoned well. The sight of Sarah's l'entrecôte steak (£19.40) would appease even the largest appetite and came medium-rare as requested.  The superbly caramelised outside gave a nice bitter note to the moist meat and Sarah really enjoyed the sumptuous Bordelaise sauce.  Perhaps the accompanying gratin dauphinoise needed a little more seasoning. I opted for my favourite crème brûlée (£5.50) for dessert and another generous portion did not disappoint as I cracked through the top and delved into the custardy goodness underneath. Tarte au chocolate (£5.50) was called for to satisfy Sarah's sweet tooth. Rich, crumbly pastry with an indulgent chocolate filling and pleasant crème anglaise rounded off a fine meal. L'Escargot's slogan is 'A little slice of France in the heart of Edimbourg...' and the city is all the better for that. L'Escargot Bleu 56 Broughton Street, Edinburgh 0131 557 1600 to make a reservation Open Mon-Thurs 12 noon-2.30pm and 5.30pm-10pm. Frid & Sat 12 noon-3pm and 5.30pm-10.30pm. Closed Sunday,(open 7 days during August)

By Lea Harris thing about having a grown daughter who has Asperger’s is that she still has the enthusiasm of a child making the various holidays throughout the year fun. Easter is no exception. There is the same look of wonderment and glee as she discovers the eggs as when she was five or six. She’d ask if the Easter bunny had been and would rush into the garden hunting down the eggs. Talking of the ovum dispensing rabbit had me think of its origins. Apparently, it hails from Germanic mythology. Ostara found a wounded bird and healed it by turning it into a hare, and it thanked the goddess by laying eggs. I much prefer the ancient pagan festivals to the modern adaptations. To me they are more relatable to the seasons than the Christian versions. Besides, I’ rather like the more fanciful stories mainly because most are food-related and that suits me just fine. Simnel Brownies 9oz dark chocolate, chopped 9oz unsalted butter, cubed 4 eggs 3oz caster sugar 3oz marzipan, grated 1tsp mixed spice 1tbspn cocoa powder 2½oz plain flour Method Put chocolate and butter into a bowl, pop over a pan of simmering water, but don’t let the bottom of the bowl touch the water. Beat eggs in another bowl with the sugar until thick and pale, fold in the chocolate and grated marzipan. Sift in the dry ingredients and fold through the wet. Plop into a 9 inch square baking tin lined with parchment and throw into a preheated, oven 180C/160C fan/Gas 4. Bake for about 20mins, it should wobble gently in the middle. Cool in the tin and then put in the fridge to firm up. Makes 9 large squares for greedy-guts or cut into 12 for a more dignified portion Lea writes IntheKitchenwithBakersBunny.wordpress.com and is @BakersBunny on

By Sharon Wilson Dishoom in St Andrews Square is inspired by the Irani cafes set up by Zoroastrian (pre-Islamic) immigrants in nineteenth century Bombay. The cafes became a social melting pot bringing together people from all social castes and professions. What better place for the hotchpotch of characters that comprises the Bite team to meet for a greedy power breakfast. Dishoom spreads over three levels and Mrs Bite is slightly surprised just how busy it is at 10am on a Friday morning. The ground-level pass is piled with silver trays of poppadoms while the second floor is buzzing with early morning diners. I order Monsoon Catuai Coffee, a quality cup of Joe made from Arabica beans. DJ Donny Hughes is sipping fresh OJ and photographer Simone has English Breakfast Tea. Copywriter and South African Kirsty said: “My Bacon Naan (the Indian street food take on a good old bacon roll) with tomato chilli jam was a great introduction to Dishoom AND there's a double bacon version if you want to level up. I do want to try Donny's choice of bacon and egg naan next and the dirty chai latte Lea decided on. “ Donny said the naan was delicious and that “he’d be back!” Lea writes Bite's What’s in Season column and said of her breakfast: “Slightly miffed that the chicken livers are no longer on the menu as a main breakfast dish, but I could still get my fix of the cheeky temptresses in the Keema Per Eedu – saffron-coloured runny-yolked fried eggs that hides a taste bud tingling mix of spiky chicken mince and livers. The sali crisp-chips (chipstix but better) add a crunchy texture.” Australian fitness instructor Tracy arrived by bike in true Parsi style and had the Bun Maska – a sweet brioche bun slathered in butter which is dipped in one’s Chai; pineapple and Pink Peppercorn Jam were to the side. Meanwhile Simone and I tucked into thrice-stacked, lightly-frilled Pancakes with creamy shrikhand, fresh berries, toasted coconut flakes and jaggery syrup and then we had the bare-faced cheek to pinch some of Tracy's jam. I loved the shrikhand which is creamy, fresh curd. A hundred thousand thanks to Dishoom for the invite.

Quarantini boxes support the city's hospitality trade. KEEP EDINBURGH THRIVING SUPPORTS BARS & RESTAURANTS ACROSS EDINBURGH 19/05/2020 Quarantini boxes will create a critical lifeline for bars and restaurants that have been forced to close their doors. With lockdown restrictions for the hospitality industry expected to extend for weeks to come, Robbie Allen, founder of ‘Keep Edinburgh Thriving’ has diversified his business offering to incorporate the ‘Quarantini Box’. Each Quarantini Box will be filled with cocktails lovingly crafted by Edinburgh bartenders and restaurateurs as well as beers and spirits from local distilleries and breweries.  Serving as a critical business lifeline for the hospitality industry, Robbie Allen plans to work with new bars and restaurants?each week so the people of Edinburgh?can support multiple hospitality businesses?at the same time through the regular purchase of a Quarantini Box, which will be delivered free of charge every Friday & Saturday.   Allen has sold over 2,000 Keep Edinburgh Thriving boxes (2,011 to be exact), generating over £55,000 in revenue for 47 local Edinburgh businesses in only 6 weeks. He said: "We have been completely overwhelmed with the support we have seen for Keep Edinburgh Thriving and it’s been amazing to be able to support local independents to stay in business through such a tough time.   "Our local bars and restaurants are expected to stay closed until at least July or early August so we want to support them as much as we can as well as bring a little bit of the Edinburgh bar scene to customers across the city who will be missing their favourite bars and restaurants.”   Nick Robinson, Owner of Tonic Bar Edinburgh comments: "In this difficult time the Quarantini Box allows Tonic as a team to bring a little bit of normality back into our lives. We can’t wait to have our doors open again, to see our customers enjoy themselves and put this all behind us, but as our doors are closed we are accumulating substantial amounts of debt each week via fixed costs and the Quarantini Box will allow us to generate some revenue to reduce this debt.”  There are two box sizes of gift box available – a small box contains four cocktails and one beer (£39) and a large box contains six cocktails and one beer (£55). Each Quarantini box also contains garnishes, serve instructions and pick n mix. All you need is a glass and some ice. If customers want to enhance their at home experience, they can add a cocktail shaker for only £5.  Rachel Bailey-Palumbo, Director at Hey Palu comments: "When the opportunity arose to partner with the Thriving Box Company we were extremely excited. Their clever concept gives people both the opportunity to support Edinburgh small businesses like ourselves and try new products, whilst also opening up the possibility for us to engage with new customers, who we hope will become regulars once we are able to open again.”  Menu for delivery weekend of 22nd May will include:  Espresso Mart-ana-tini from Buck & Birch Banana Daiquiri from Hey Palu Negroni from Old Poison Distillery Starburst from Tonic Gluten free lager from Bellfield Brewery  To help support the local community further during this epidemic, £2 from each gift box sale will be donated to the Edinburgh Food Project.  The rapid spread of COVID-19 has caused a sudden, steep decline in business for cafes, restaurants, boutiques, artisans, creators and local retailers. For more information about how to support your local high street and keep Edinburgh Thriving, visit www.keepedinburghthriving.com

By Anna Christopherson of Boda Bars Cinnamon buns are a must for the Swedish tradition of Fika. Fika is a time we spend together, taking a break in work, duties and chores, to sit down and socialise. When my grandfather Karl was 81 years old, his wife, passed away. He had been in love with her since she was 15, and they had lived many happy years together. My grandmother had been the proud ruler of the kitchen, so my grandfather was used to eating amazing food and cakes. So when my grandmother passed away – it was not only her warm embraces that he was missing but also her famous cinnamon buns. At 81 years old he learnt how to make these buns and even perfected the recipe. It proves that it is never too late to learn new things. Grandpa Karl’s Cinnamon Buns (250 degrees, 20-30 buns) Dough: 500ml milk 150 grammes butter 50 grammes yeast 4 eggs 1 tbsp coarsely grounded cardamom 150ml sugar 2 tsp baking powder 850 grammes flour Filling: 100gram butter 1 tbsp cinnamon 100ml sugar. 1-2 Eggs for washing Pearl sugar (if you have any) Method: Melt the butter, add the milk and warm until finger warm. Mix the yeast with a bit of the buttermilk until dissolved. Add sugar, salt, eggs, cardamom and half the flour until a smooth dough. Then add the rest of flour and baking powder. Let it rise for 1.5 -2 hours. Meanwhile mix butter, cinnamon and sugar. Divide the dough in two then roll into a rectangular shape. Spread the filling. Fold the dough in two. Then cut 1 centimetre thick lengths out of the folded dough. Take two lengths at a time and swirl them. Line a baking tray with paper and leave to rise again for 20-30minutes. Glaze with egg and bake until golden brown. Enjoy with a nice cup of strong coffee or hot chocolate!! Cinnamon buns are for sharing!