Edinburgh’s lunchtime dining scene is famously changeable, but every so often a restaurant introduces something that shifts the midday landscape. Celestia — Mohammed Abbas’s contemporary Indian restaurant on Eyre Place achieves this with the lunchtime menu: bold flavours, refined technique, and exceptional value wrapped into one very generous offering. Abbas, who also brought the popular Cilantro to Leith Walk, has built a sleek, elegant restaurant befitting of its New Town setting and of its esteemed neighbour Cardinal. Priced at £15.95 (vegetarian) and £19.95 (non‑vegetarian), the lunch menu includes an appetiser, main, and accompaniment. Dishes span Paneer Tikka, Bhatti Murgh, Chana Masala, Scottish Lamb Curry, and Goan Fish Curry, served with pulao rice or naan. For quicker visits, the Lunch Plate selection offers standalone dishes such as Masala Fish & Chips (£12.95), Jashila Chicken Tikka (£12.95), and Paneer Tikki (£11.95). Lunch is served daily from 1pm–3pm, and trust me — you won’t be thinking about dinner afterwards. I visited with my friend Iain, grateful for the extra pair of hands (and appetite). He opened with the Paneer Tikka, a dish I’ve enjoyed before. He noted how the paneer absorbed the spices so completely that every bite felt layered and moreish. My Bhatti Murgh was outstanding: tender chicken pieces cooked in a deeply flavourful spice mix, seasoned with real precision. It was so good I attempted to coax the recipe from our server, but no secrets were shared. For mains, I chose the Masala Fish ’n’ Chips, where the fries were dusted with spice, while Iain opted for the Scottish Lamb Curry. His dish was exceptional — tender lamb in a light, aromatic gravy that felt almost delicate. Saffron pulao rice and fresh, blistered naan arrived alongside, though by that point we were fit to burst and could only admire the puffy bread with longing. Celestia’s new lunch menu is a standout addition to Edinburgh’s midday dining options. Generous portions, thoughtful cooking, and excellent value make it an ideal choice for anyone who enjoys a proper lunch. Lunch Menu Vegetarian set lunch: £15.95 Non‑vegetarian set lunch: £19.95 Includes appetiser, main, accompaniment Available daily 1pm–3pm Lunch Plate dishes: £11.95–£13.95 Celestia - 18 Eyre Pl, Edinburgh EH3 5EP - 0131 287 2914 Instagram: @celestiaedinburgh Email: info@celestiarestaurant.co.uk Opening hours: Sun–Thu 1pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 1pm–10.30pm

This summer, two of Britain’s most celebrated foodie destinations come together as Gleneagles Townhouse in Edinburgh welcomes Daylesford for the organic pioneer’s first UK pop-up beyond London and the Cotswolds. From 8 to 11 July 2026, Daylesford will take over the hotel and members’ club’s stylish St Andrew Square home, bringing its celebrated produce, craftsmanship and seasonal philosophy to the Scottish capital for a four-day residency. The farm shop will take over The Telling Rooms within the former Bank of Scotland building, dressed with pantry staples from geranium & rhubarb preserve and Ploughman’s chutney to extra virgin olive oil, alongside homeware and kitchenware including tablecloths, napkin sets and floral dinner plates. Perfect for gifting, Daylesford’s signature hampers packed for a Scottish summer picnic complete the edit. The pop-up pantry opens to all from 12.30pm on Wednesday 8 July, then runs daily from 10am to 5pm for the rest of the residency. Tastings and live demonstrations will unfold throughout the pantry pop-up with the chance to meet the Cotswold-based makers behind Daylesford favourites such as artisan cheeses and a selection of chutneys. There will also be moments throughout the popup that are exclusive only to members of Gleneagles Townhouse, for example a wine tasting led by Château Léoube, Daylesford's organic estate in Provence, and, on Friday 10 July, an exclusive supper club bringing the best of the farm’s seasonal produce to the Townhouse table. Expertly curated by Gleneagles Townhouse’s Executive Chef Elliot Hill alongside Daylesford Farm’s Sam Bowser and Gaven F uller, the menu features Gleneagles Whisky Barrel Oak Smoked Salmon and cheeses from the Daylesford Creamery, paired with Léoube wines. Having farmed organically for more than four decades, Daylesford is renowned for its pioneering work in sustainable farming - no synthetic fertilisers, no chemical pesticides, rare and heritage breeds reared slowly on clover-rich pastures, and a light touch on the land it sets out to replenish. Related content: Review of The Spence Gleneagles Townhouse 1–3 St Andrew Square Edinburgh EH2 2BD

Cromlix emerges from a bold transformation with two new restaurants, a sharpened culinary vision and its sights firmly set on a Michelin Star. As chef James Mearing and head gardener Kathy Beckett work in tandem to coax exceptional produce from a heat‑struck garden, the hotel owned by Andy and Kim Murray enters a new era of ambition, sustainability and quietly confident excellence. On just about the hottest day of the year so far, I revisit Cromlix hotel owned by Andy and Kim Murray just after its re-opening following an extended closure for the building of a new extension with 60-cover Garden Room restaurant overlooking the lawn, and the creation of Cradle, a small 16-cover fine-dining restaurant inside the hotel. I’m fascinated to see the bold new direction the hotel is taking as it aims for Michelin Star status [a story I broke exclusively last year in the Sunday Times], and to chat with executive head chef James Mearing and head gardener Kathy Beckett, who work closely together to create chef James' menus of “exceptional” fresh, local, sustainably grown produce and beautiful-to-behold dishes. Already the hotel and its existing Glasshouse restaurant have been awarded 3 AA rosettes for culinary excellence. Next stop: a Michelin Star for Cradle. Head Chef James Mearing in the garden that supplies two restaurants It appears the heat is on, on two counts. “We’re coping by adapting,” says Kathy as she swelters in the kitchen garden in front of the hotel. With recent temperatures nudging a record-breaking 30degC, care of the fruit, flower, vegetable and herb plants that feed the hotel kitchens, as well as the cut flowers for the hotel itself, is her pressing task. Her staff have been asked to begin work an hour earlier at 7.30am to catch the morning soil while it’s relatively cool and more able to retain water, and they finish at 3.30pm instead of 4.30pm so they themselves can avoid the worst of the heat. The watering systems have been adapted and improved, with drip lines and soaker hoses, and a staggered, carefully organised watering schedule. “We have to be strategic about watering all plants - the fruit trees, vegetables and flowers - throughout the week,” adds Kathy. I ask if she is looking to the future, should signs of climate change continue, she answers: “I’m sure we’ll get more of this in the future but I think we’ll still grow the same things, and just adapt our practices, perhaps by growing more vegetables outside, and switching from annual flowers to perennials as they are more resistant to heat.” She mentions quinoa being grown down South as an indication of future possibilities. When I meet with chef James I can’t wait to ask if the Michelin inspectors have been yet: Cromlix was awarded a Michelin Key last year which means its inspectors would be calling. “It’s difficult to tell as they don’t announce themselves,” he replies quietly, adding: “But I hope it won’t be too long.” The Michelin Awards ceremony usually takes place in February and chefs in line for a first or new Michelin Star are invited in late autumn. Dates for 2027 have still to be announced. It’s a nervous wait, but meantime chef James and Kathy are working together to do the best they can. Kathy and her team built the Gourmet Garden Polytunnel, where the most “exceptional” baby vegetables, flowers and micro greens are grown. “What’s important is that the tasting menu [at Cradle] starts here,” says chef, who chose his fashionable green chef’s “white” jacket to chime with the hotel’s natural, organic ethos. “Sustainable succession growing to ensure my ingredients are as fresh as possible is what we believe in, so we’re planting and harvesting in sequence.” Butterfly sorrel, Blauschokker peas, three types of heritage tomatoes, baby courgettes, tiny carrots are being grown here “for the plate rather than the pot”. Visual appeal is key for chef. When I spot some chickpea shoots growing among the thousands of micro-herbs in the polytunnel he says simply: “I like the structure of the leaves.” He’s also a fan of the coconut-pineapple notes in gorse flowers. He cooks for both new restaurants - Cradle and the Garden Room - according to this central ethos of great produce prepared, cooked and presented well. Cradle’s tasting menu is where he aims for gastronomic excellence, while in the Garden Room the larger menu and service is more relaxed with a choice of dishes. “For some diners, tasting menus can be too contrived and too ‘out there’,” he says. “At Cradle my focus is on presenting a great story on the plate. I want guests to identify with what we’re doing with beautiful produce freshly sourced from here at Cromlix and from around Scotland. “We have a course at Cradle of crudités and kombucha that for me encapsulates what we’re doing here. Produce in its natural form, no masking, no hiding it with sauces and so on.” When I visit, ingredients include a dizzying array of garden allium, asparagus, rhubarb, kohlrabi, garden peas, turnip, gorse, artichoke, cabbage, dill, carrot, courgette and Cromlix honey. He is using rose petals for a rose kombucha to follow on from his early season gorse and elderflower kombuchas, and a strawberry vinegar and miso from strawberry tops. Whole-plant is as important as whole-animal. (Lamb, chicken, venison and beef are equally well-sourced and celebrated.) To illustrate this ethos, we’re in the new state-of-the-art kitchen, where there are two passes - one for each restaurant. Chef prepares for me some of his snacks at Cradle. All three are absolutely beautiful to behold: a rounded ceramic bowl slicked with a thick layer of cool kitchen garden herb Sorbet with Scottish Gooseberry Amazake is garnished with pickled gooseberries and citrussy foraged sorrel then dotted with olive oil to create wee bubbles; a coin-shaped Nasturtium Financier is dusted with yuzu kosho and decorated with tiny garden allium petals, and tastes peppery-spicy with a satisfying grassy bite; and an Elderflower Kombucha warmly floods my system with what feels like a cleansing dose of VitB. Chef says: “I feel this is the real expression of what we’re about - fresh, beautiful ingredients, depth not spectacle - and they set the tone.” Across now to the stunning weathered steel clad Garden Room, whose floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the lawn, the Douglas fir and copper beech and newly-planted fruit trees. It’s built out from the house along the original wall of the 1874 walled garden, which is exposed in all its sand-blasted glory. Steve Strachan, food and beverage manager, greets me warmly as I enter the Garden Room via the bar. The service that ensues is impeccably amiable and professional. The number of front-of-house staff is notable and Steve tells me food and beverage staff has increased from nine to 50, and total covers over all restaurants from 50 to 150 a day. Chef James has a brigade of 18 chefs and nine kitchen porters. Cromlix Turbot An earthy Beetroot Hummus snack is extremely pretty and generously proportioned. Dotted atop a salty Rosemary Flatbread, and topped with fresh pea shoots, it’s a great start to my meal. And a Scottish Brown Crab Crumpet with fine herb salad is equally generous, the thick crumpet well able to absorb its creamy, briny dressing. A starter of BBQ skin-on Mackerel has a smoky edge that doesn’t mask the intrinsic flavour of the fish or a delicious Ajo Blanco (a sort of white gazpacho) sauce topped with white grapes. I choose a Tranche of Scottish Wild Turbot with dashi beurre blanc and walnut oil - a highly sophisticated dish that delivers beautifully soft delicate flakes with a gently acidic hint from the sauce. My companion’s St Brides Chicken Breast is rich in natural flavours, the texture enhanced by a thick slice of hen-of-the-woods. We share a fresh in-season Scottish Strawberry Pavlova with elderflower to finish, its meringue tower crumbly and not overly sweet. As the summer evening light falls across the pristine lawn, my experience here feels sun-kissed and joyful. And though the heatwave has now broken, the residual warmth is a reminder that hope is on the horizon. * Cromlix Hotel, Kinbuck, Near Dunblane, Stirling, FK15 9JT (cromlix.com).

Whilst influencers and travel writers jet off to far‑flung corners of the globe, at Bite we’re more than content exploring Scotland’s endless pretty pockets. We can be quietly smug knowing our country has it all — landscape, history, a natural larder that spoils us, and weather that may deliver four seasons in a day but remains, somehow, reliably temperate. And so Mr Bite and I set off for our latest staycation in Helensburgh. Famous for its outlook over the Clyde, for Hill House, and for sitting just a stone’s throw from Faslane, it’s a place I’d inexplicably never visited despite living in Glasgow for over a decade. What we found was a leafy, elegant town with a long waterfront that pulls your gaze across the loch. And on this main drag sits our home for two days: Riva Boutique Hotel. Home is the right word — Helensburgh wears its west coast hospitality proudly, and nothing is ever too much trouble. Within hours, that warmth was stitched into our stay. It’s always a treat to open a hotel door and know you won’t be cleaning a shower or doing the laundry But this room was something else: third‑floor townhouse charm, two cushioned window seats, a bathroom that ran the full length of the space, and — best of all — a record player with a stack of vinyl. Stevie Wonder on a west coast staycation? Perfect. The heat was properly roasting too — that rare west coast sizzle that makes every decision lean towards cold drinks and shade. And so, we headed straight downstairs for a refresher, to remind us that we were officially off duty. A Campari from their line‑up of summer spirits for me (because nothing says holiday like that bitter, ruby kick), and a pint of hoppy pale ale for him. Sitting outside under the canopy, it felt almost Mediterranean. And that theme continues. Riva Boutique Hotel has just revamped its food and drink offering, re‑launching as Santé Bar & Bistro, a Mediterranean‑inspired space that leans into sunshine flavours and relaxed coastal dining. The new small plates lunch menu — three dishes for £15.95, Monday to Saturday — brings together Burrata with heirloom tomatoes, Pollo alla Milanese, and Quinoa with feta and pomegranate. The à la carte goes deeper into Italy, with Pizzettes made in‑house and proper pasta dishes: slow‑braised Beef Bauletti with black garlic and red wine, Beetroot Girasoli with aromatic spices, and Lobster Bauletti in a shellfish bisque. We had pasta but also some great fish and chips served as it should be with mushy peas, homemade tartare sauce and a lemon wedge. Mr Bite oved his steak with Chimichurri. We had pasta, but also some excellent Fish and Chips, served exactly as it should be — with mushy peas, homemade tartar sauce, and a lemon wedge. Mr Bite loved his Steak with chimichurri, cooked perfectly and full of flavour. I had Let it Bee organic rose wine with my pasta on the first night one and organic verdejo with the my fish and chips on the second evening. Desserts keep things classic and comforting — homemade Sticky Toffee Pudding, Cheesecake of the day (the Piña Colada was recommended) and Italian gelatos and sorbets. And I can say with full confidence that the Sticky Toffee Pudding, made in‑house by the chef, was the best I have ever tasted. Light, warm, treacly, and devilishly indulgent. Beyond the hotel, Helensburgh gave us the perfect mix of pottering and playing. We played tennis at one of the two local clubs, I wandered happily through the charity shops and gorgeous boutiques, and we stocked up on wine and beer at Ellies Cellars. At the Saturday market, we picked up bread and the creamiest smoked trout to take home for tea. Hill House is up the hill from Helensburgh We also popped into Hill House ( the cafe only which has empire biscuits) and scones that reminded me of Betty's Little Rascals IFYKYK), though regrettably didn’t manage to cycle through Glen Fruin, site of the eponymous battle, with its gorgeous views over the loch. Next time. We were genuinely sorry to leave Riva, the stylish seafront base perfectly positioned along Helensburgh’s historic waterfront of Victorian buildings. Rooms range from Seaview Kings to family rooms and twins, all with waterfall showers, underfloor heating, smart TVs, high‑speed Wi‑Fi and coffee machines. A proper little coastal escape, just a short hop from Loch Lomond — and exactly the kind of place that reminds you why Scotland’s “pretty pockets” are always worth choosing. Related content: More reviews of Argyll & Bute Riva Hotel: 12–14 W Clyde Street, Helensburgh - +44 1436 677796

According to the Scotch Whisky Association, there are over 150 malt and grain distilleries in Scotland. Their website maps them, providing an impressive visual representation of these precious havens for Scotland’s most famous drink. Ian Buxton, a man who knows a thing or two about the industry, with more than 40 years of experience under his belt, is perhaps best known for his ‘100 Whiskies to Try Before You Die’ book. Whiskies Galore, first published in 2017 and updated and reprinted in 2026, came to my attention as one to pick up. I confess to not being much of a whisky drinker myself, but what I do enjoy, and take a keen interest in, is the experience around it. The stories, the sense of place. What it brings to communities and our tourism and food and drink industries. Our global reputation. And as someone who’s always been captivated by the magic and uniqueness of islands, the book was even more of a draw. Buxton sounds like quite a character. The kind of person you’d like to sit and enjoy a dram with and listen to his tales. A natural storyteller, with a dry sense of humour. Whiskies Galore is a self-confessed personal foray around the islands with the aim of discovering what makes their distilleries so distinctive. What’s at the heart of that romantic, emotional appeal. He wants to take the reader on a bit of an adventure, but not one that’s taken too seriously. More of a travelogue, filled with fascinating facts about each distillery and their location, history, people and production, from those that have been around for a long time to some of the newer ones that have attracted lots of investment and attention. Throw into the mix his wry commentary (don’t mention whisky cask investment, as he has no truck with that at all) and you have an entertaining ride ahead. Kicking off on Arran, he covers everywhere from Jura and Mull to Harris and Lewis, Skye and Orkney. There are three whole chapters dedicated to the big hitter that is Islay, which will appeal to anyone who’s either been or who has a notion to go. He honours the less celebrated people behind the business, too, not least, the wonderful Ronnie Lee, a freelance millwright, who’s been keeping the machines turning for many a year. There is also a selection of beautiful images from days gone by. I loved the vintage poster of Old Orkney Whisky from Stromness Distillery, showing a couple embracing (and, as Buxton says, not one that you’d get away with now). So, what is it about the island distilleries that make them so different and alluring? Well, you’ll have to read the book to find out, but what I can say is that the story isn’t finished yet and that it is one that will continue to evolve and entice. No matter which distillery you visit, it will be part of your own adventure and you’ll be sure of a warm welcome, lots of stories, a deep sense of place and a touch of magic. Scotland’s distilleries, through production and tourism, are at the heart of island communities, creating jobs, supporting livelihoods and caring for the environment. Let’s raise a glass to that. Copies are available online at Birlinn Ltd www.birlinn.co.uk £12.99 Fiona Richmond is Head of Regional Food & Drink at Scotland Food & Drink

The Old Chain Pier, one of Edinburgh’s most iconic pubs, is celebrating a historic milestone following the implementation of the new Scottish Pubs Code. The landmark legislation, which gives pub owners the right to request a rent-only agreement without being tied to a pub-owning business for stock supply, has empowered the venue to break free from restrictive purchasing obligations. This newfound independence means the historic pub can stock a wider, more exciting range of beers and permanently slash the price of its house lager to just £5 a pint, as well as reduce the price of all its beers. To mark the occasion, The Old Chain Pier is hosting a massive, week-long celebration from Monday, 29th June to Sunday, 5th July. Throughout the entire week, all pints poured at the pub will be reduced to just £5. As part of the celebration The Old Chain Pier will also hand over its beer garden to three of Edinburgh’s finest local breweries, with free pints up for grabs. The victory arrives at a critical time for the local hospitality sector. Edinburgh’s pubs and restaurants are currently navigating unprecedented financial pressures including high VAT, soaring business rates, road closures, rising Employer National Insurance Contributions (NIC), and the highest local authority charges in Europe for outdoor tables and chairs. Against this challenging backdrop, the Scottish Pubs Code provides a much-needed lifeline, finally allowing venues like The Old Chain Pier to operate fairly and pass those savings directly to customers and sell pints at true market prices. January Watson, Area Manager for Malt Group, said: “The Scottish Pubs Code has been a massive relief for us. Operating in Edinburgh's hospitality sector is incredibly tough right now with mounting taxes, rates, and the highest table and chair charges in Europe. Being able to step away from tied stock means we finally have the freedom to curate our own beer selection, support brilliant local breweries, and pass those savings directly on to our loyal customers with £5 pints.” The week-long party promises fun for the whole family, two-legged and four-legged alike. Guests who book a table to dine from Monday, 29th June through Thursday, 2nd July will receive 20% off their food bill. All week long, the pub's famous beer garden will be transformed into a playground featuring giant Jenga, hopscotch, quoits, and cornhole. Additional festivities running throughout the week include live music performances, free face painting for all ages, and a pet fancy dress competition. As the week progresses, Stewart Brewing Beer (Friday 3rd July), Newbarns Brewery (Saturday 4th July) and Campervan Brewery (Sunday 5th July) will take over the beer garden with free pints for the first 20 customers, complete with a garden BBQ serving up hot dogs, chicken kebabs, and more from 6:00 pm each evening. More events and surprises for the week are still to be confirmed. Customers are encouraged to keep an eye on the pub's website and social media channels for the latest updates. For reservations and more information, please visit: https://www.oldchainpier.com/

“I love food!” A familiar refrain that so often means nothing. If loving food means ogling a cheese‑draped burger on Instagram or inhaling a spice bag, then that’s just entertainment — no different from football or theatre. But, of course, the best football and the best theatre aren’t merely entertainment; they’re about experience, identity and meaning. Consider the Tartan Army during the 2026 World Cup: their pageantry and humour expressed Scottishness more vividly than any politician’s speech. Or the National Theatre Live production of Othello I saw on International Women’s Day this year — a reminder that the patriarchal worlds inhabited by Desdemona, Bianca and Emilia cannot be equated with a manicure and a glass of Prosecco. Some experiences carry weight; others are just treats or titillations. Food is the same. You cannot compare a poke of dirty fries with a plate of Boeuf Bourguignon. One fills you; the other speaks of craft, culture, connection and belonging. Loving food, in any meaningful sense, is recognising that food — like theatre or football — becomes powerful when it becomes expressive. Food, then, has meaning. And that’s why some people don’t just “love food”; they live it. When Carlo Petrini — founder of the Slow Food movement — died earlier this year, tributes described a man who changed how the world thinks about eating. His message was simple but radical: food is culture, ecology, labour, memory; it is never just a product. But philosophy becomes real only when someone chooses to live it — and in Scotland, that Slow Food philosophy finds its clearest manifestation in Fred Berkmiller and what he is achieving at Monkton Gardens. On a 1,200‑square‑metre plot outside Edinburgh, Fred, chef/patron of L'Escargot Bleu, has created a vegetable garden that now supplies his restaurant with produce you simply cannot buy. This is not hobby gardening; it is a local agro-economy. Every row of chard, every tangle of beans, every stubborn cabbage is part of a story he’s writing in the fertile East Lothian soil — soil he continually improves. Slow Food argues for soil health, for producers over profit, for flavour rooted in place rather than engineered in factories. Fred’s compost bays, his seeds, his insistence on building fertility rather than buying it — all of this is Slow Food. And while many restaurants talk about provenance, Fred has spent five years building it. When we tumble into Monkton Gardens one Sunday, bumping through the iron gates in his old Mercedes Land Rover, the first thing he does is unload coffee grounds and bins of vegetable peelings from his Broughton Street restaurant. Saturday was the last service of the week; the restaurant won’t open again until Wednesday, so this is his Sunday ritual. The food waste goes into the newest composting bay — one of several, each at a different stage of decomposition. He piles grass cuttings on top to keep it warm and let nature do its work. Then he shows me the one‑year‑old compost: dark, earthy, with the texture of fine breadcrumbs. He lifts a handful, smells it, and encourages me to do the same. It is warm, dark and alive. We joke about what a sommelier would make of its ‘nose’. After a century of farming that stripped soils with synthetic fertilisers and monoculture, Fred is putting back what industrial agriculture took out. Compost restores nitrogen, microbes and organic matter — the very things the Green Revolution bypassed in favour of chemical shortcuts. When he tips coffee grounds and peelings into his bays, he feeds an underground workforce of bacteria, fungi and worms that rebuild structure, fertility and resilience. Compost is the engine of a small circular economy where nothing is lost, and everything returns to the land. As he puts it, bluntly and accurately: “If you start with crap, you cannot produce good food.” The same philosophy shapes how he thinks about seeds. Fred buys seeds he can save and re‑grow — a practice increasingly rare in modern agriculture. Companies like Bayer‑Monsanto have pushed a system where a handful of uniform varieties dominate the market. It gives them control: higher prices, fewer choices, and farmers who must buy new seed every season. Many commercial seeds don’t reproduce reliably, or the small print forbids saving them at all. Fred wants nothing to do with that. He aligns himself with the seed‑sovereignty movement — a global pushback against the big boys to keep seeds in the hands of farmers and communities. He mentions Real Seeds in Wales, a company he admires because they don’t just sell seed; they tell you how to reproduce it. No patents, no restrictions — just plants that can live again the following season. Fresh asparagus Fred also practises ‘No‑Dig’ gardening which follows a simple principle: leave the soil undisturbed and feed it from the surface. Organic gardening guru Charles Dowding’s research at Homeacres, his Somerset teaching garden, shows that no‑dig beds can match or outperform traditionally dug plots, with fewer weeds and better moisture retention. Compost, as surface mulch, mimics forest processes, reduces weed pressure by up to 75% from the second year, and creates healthier, more resilient soil ecosystems. Fred’s garden — lush, orderly, astonishingly productive — is proof of what No‑Dig can do. We move on to the greenhouse. Water is a problem at Monkton Gardens, so he works with what he has: large rain‑fed butts lined up beside the door. He dips a metal watering can into the cold water. It’s a rare bright day in East Lothian, the sky a piercing, improbable blue, but I can’t help thinking of how frigid winter gardening is in Scotland and what a commitment Monkton is. Inside the greenhouse though, it is warm and close and as Fred moves down the rows of basil and tomato plants, they release a heady aroma. I ask him about the relationship between the restaurant and the garden. He tells me that after COVID, he restructured L’Escargot Bleu. The restaurant now opens four days a week instead of six and serves fewer covers — a shift that brings the kitchen into line with the output of Monkton Garden. Instead of ordering freely from vegetable suppliers, he works within the limits of what the garden can give: its quantities, its timings, its varieties. One outcome is Monkton Salad, a dish that changes with the day’s harvest. It reflects the labour behind the garden and the biodiversity it supports. A serving might include tomatoes with basil, but also edible flowers, chard, rocket, mâche, rapa, radish and a rotating mix of herbs. The composition shifts constantly; uniformity is not the point. What appears on that plate — varied, seasonal, unpredictable — stands in stark contrast to how most of the world now eats. Today, three‑quarters of the world’s food supply comes from just 12 plant species and five animal species Let that sink in. It is a concentration that leaves food systems vulnerable. Initiatives such as the Ark of Taste and Dan Saladino’s book Eating to Extinction highlight the erosion of diversity and the cultural knowledge that disappears with it. Techniques including nose‑to‑tail eating, foraging, preserving and fermentation extend the usable range of ingredients. Advocates argue these practices support food security and sovereignty by making better use of what already exists. After all, one‑third of all food produced globally is lost or wasted — roughly 30–40% disappearing between farm and fork. And while the global food system narrows and simplifies, Fred’s corner of East Lothian shows what diversity looks like in practice. Even the smallholding next door releases its ducks and geese each day to eat the slugs that would otherwise go for the vegetables. The arrangement is informal but effective — a small, self‑regulating ecosystem. Fred, though, extends his soil‑first philosophy beyond vegetables. L’ Escargot Bleu is Pasture for Life certified. The Association champions the unique quality of meat raised exclusively on pasture, along with the wider environmental and animal‑welfare benefits that genuinely grass‑fed systems deliver. For him, sourcing is part of the same closed‑loop thinking - meat that reflects the landscape it comes from, grown with the same attention to soil health and biodiversity that shapes the vegetables outside his kitchen door. And so, the philosophy that starts in the soil ends in the saucepan: meat and vegetables worked into stock, every stock reduced into sauce, every sauce carrying the richness, nutrition and integrity of the landscape it came from. The taste of summer What all of this shows is that food is never just the thing on the plate. It is soil and seed, labour and landscape, animals raised with care, vegetables grown in living earth, choices made slowly and deliberately. In Fred’s world, the garden, the herd, the craft and the kitchen are not separate stories but one continuous line. And when that line reaches the table, the result isn’t simply something to eat — it’s a reminder that food has meaning. And here’s the thing that cuts through all the theory: this food tastes better. As we walk through the garden, I’m handed leaves and stems and pods — carrot tops, herbs, peas, onion shoots, radish, and then raw asparagus, so fresh and intense it makes me question why I ever cook it. The flavour isn’t an accident; it’s the outcome of everything we’ve traced — soil left undisturbed, biodiversity protected, choices made with patience rather than convenience. When you taste something grown in a living system, tended by people who care, it stops being just food and becomes a way of understanding where you are and what matters on our one precious earth. Monkton Garden makes you really love food.

David Bicket (centre) delights in his success with (left) father David and (right) Grandpa Alex. Talented young Kilwinning butcher David Bicket has secured a nationwide industry title for Scotland in this year’s “Battle of the Butchers”. The 20-year-old took on some of the country’s leading aspiring butchers to lift the Dalziel Ltd Centenary Show’s apprentice category at Harrogate Yorkshire Showground. As the only Scot, David went head-to-head with 10 top level apprentice butchers from England in a series of testing challenges against the clock. And judges praised his “butchery skills, experience, innovation, product development and presentation” as he lifted the coveted trophy. A sixth-generation butcher from the well-known family butchers Alex Bicket Ltd., David is proving himself to be one of the country’s leading young talents. He was recently named in the squad to represent Great Britain at the World Butchers’ Challenge (WBC) in Australia in 2028. The Battle of the Butchers 2026 was David’s first major competition, but he said instinct overcame fear as he faced the audience and judges, tasked with breaking down lamb, beef, pork and chicken to create a display of counter-ready products. “As soon as I lifted my knife, I knew what I wanted to do and it was pretty much stick to the plan and get my display looking nice,” he said. “The work by the other apprentice butchers was really impressive and I’m absolutely thrilled to have won the title against such talent. It’s a real boost to my confidence and fabulous practice as I fight for a place in the final GB team selection for Australia in two years’ time.” Bicket butchers have been trading in Kilwinning for nearly 200 years and David’s father – David senior – said his son is “a natural”. “It’s in his blood,” he said. “The family have been farmers and butchers for six generations and David has been brought up learning the trade from both me and his Grandpa since he was a youngster. He’s doing what comes naturally. “We’re all so proud of his title-winning performance at the Battle of the Butchers. The family was there to cheer him on and it was an emotional moment for us all when he was announced as winner. It’s a brilliant achievement and his trophy takes pride of place in the shop window.” Battle of the Butchers head judge Keith Fisher said he was “extremely impressed” by the standard of young butchers vying for the apprentice category title. “It was a difficult task and a close-run outcome,” he said, “but David just had the edge, working cleanly, quickly and effectively, showing an impressive level of skill, confidence and innovation. “He was very well organised, neat and tidy and displayed an impressive level of skill in all aspects of the challenge. “It was a joy to watch tomorrow’s butchers displaying such talent and David is undoubtedly one of its stars.” Gordon King, Executive Manager of Scottish Craft Butchers (SCB), said David was “a rising star”. “David has studied for his apprenticeship through our training partner, Craft Skills Scotland,” he said, “and has proved an impressive talent throughout. “Butchery is a trade he has grown up in and he’s a natural. Now he’s proving himself on the competition stage and he is undoubtedly someone to watch in the future. “Scottish Craft Butchers and Craft Skills Scotland want to congratulate David on a job well done, showing that the industry in Scotland is producing some of the finest young butchers in the UK and that the future of our profession is safe in their hands.”

What began as pop‑up dinners exploring the flavours of the Portuguese spice routes has become Macau Kitchen, the UK’s only Macanese restaurant. For Kei de Freitas and Hoeyyn Ngu, each dish is a link in a long Luso‑Asian story — a diaspora cuisine they are still uncovering. Kei de Freitas and his wife, Hoeyyn Ngu never wanted to run a restaurant. Now they have one of Edinburgh’s most happening eateries but their story began long before Macau Kitchen opened its doors. The couple moved from London to Edinburgh in 2008, hosting private and pop‑up dinners that explored the flavours of the Portuguese spice trade — a culinary world shaped by centuries of movement between Goa, Malacca and Macau. It is no exaggeration to say that Kei and Hoeyyn are on a culinary mission. In 2019, they opened Macau Kitchen on St Leonard’s Street, creating the UK’s only known dedicated Macanese restaurant. They had planned on continuing with supper clubs, but the restaurant presented itself and a deal was done on the spur of the moment. UNESCO recognises Macau as a Creative City of Gastronomy, reflecting the cultural importance of what is thought to be the world’s first fusion cuisine. Kei embodies this cultural fusion: born in Mozambique to a Portuguese father and a Mozambique‑born, Portuguese‑creole (Goan and Kristang) mother, he grew up in Porto and Lisbon and now travels regularly to the family kitchen tables of his heritage to source recipes. Food, he says, is about connection: “I go back to my roots to find recipes from families in Malacca and Macao that have been handed down through the generations and that are based on the marriages between all the different ethnicities that have contributed to our shared cuisine.” Malacca, Goa and Macau were the key Portuguese trading ports of the 16th century, forming the Luso‑Asian corridor that shaped Macanese cooking. From Malacca comes the coconut milk, tamarind, candlenut, palm sugar and Malay spice pastes that give Macanese dishes their Southeast Asian depth. From Goa come vinegar‑based marinades, the warm spice pastes built on cumin, coriander, cinnamon and cloves, and the tradition of slow‑cooked pork dishes that echo the Portuguese vinha d’alhos — or Pork Vindaloo. I was lucky enough to eat this authentic vindaloo at a collaboration between Macau Kitchen x Sabzi at the latter’s Punjabi restaurant in Ferry Road. The pork belly, said Kei at this event, should display five layers of fat and meat because removing layers changes the meat’s character. From Macau comes Cantonese techniques and pantry staples: steaming, stir‑frying, fermenting, soy sauce. The menu at Macau Kitchen is produce‑led, changing daily depending on what is best. When I visit with my friend, who happens to be half Malaysian, we eat two spectacular pork dishes made from Oxford Sandy and Black rare breed pigs. The first is Spicy Pork Sausage served with sambal (red chilli paste) and crispy onions. Kei sources the best Scottish produce and adds a Luso-Asian twist. You really do need the distinct meatiness of the sausage to stand up to the sambal. We also have Pork Cheek Curry which falls apart at the touch of our forks. Again the flavour is out of this world. But it is not just the produce that makes the food special, it is the cooking techniques, experience and instincts that are applied to the premium ingredients. Fermentation links the Cantonese (soy/bean pastes), Malay (belacan), and Goan (vinegar) flavour worlds — and Kei’s Spicy Luso‑Malay Fish brings all three into one dish. Sinead and I are eating Chef’s Choice, placing our trust in Kei while Hoeyyn makes us delicious drinks based around fruit, salt, honey, citrus and Gula Melaka (unrefined coconut palm sugar). The Basil Mustard Chicken is tender, sticky, spicy and aromatic. Beef is a mix of sirloin and rib-eye cuts aged for 36 days and cooked with fruity glossy peppers and onions. Many of the dishes Kei chooses for us come from the changing daily menu, he says ”they are what he and Hoeyyn would eat” . Inevitably though, customer favourites have created menu staples, such as Minchi, a comforting Macanese classic with stir-fried Aberdeen Angus beef mince. I’m aware that the food stories Kei and Hoeyyn tell sit inside the long shadow of the Portuguese colonial empire. The dishes they serve are an edible archive of centuries of colonisation, trade domination and cultural entanglement. But Kei and Hoeyyn — like their cuisine — are on a journey. When they opened Macau Kitchen in 2019, the menu was Macanese and Portuguese. By 2022, it had become Macanese and Malaccan‑Portuguese. In 2024, Progressive Macanese. In 2025, Progressive Macanese and Luso‑Asian. And from July 19th this year, they will begin their fifth phase: Progressive Luso‑Asian Cuisine. Each phase peels back another layer of their food heritage. Progressive Luso‑Asian Cuisine accepts that Macanese food belongs to the whole corridor that made Macau possible. And here’s the thing - food is in flux as we speak; it is fundamentally a diaspora cuisine that is still evolving. At Macau Kitchen, by recognising the influence of Goa, Malacca, Mozambique, Brazil, southern China and generations of mixed‑heritage families — not just Portugal — Kei and Hoeyyn are reframing Macanese cuisine and allowing it to tell its full Luso‑Asian story. The new directionn and menu will launch at a special event on July 19. This will be Macau Kitchen's 100th event. To make a reservation call or What's App the number below. Related content - Macau x Sabzi Macau Kitchen -93 Leonard's St, Edinburgh EH8 9QY - 07577 667334

Ondine Oyster & Grill at Seaton House in St Andrews opened in March 2025 under the patronage of Roy Brett, following the closure of his long‑standing seafood restaurant, Ondine, on George IV Bridge, where it had operated since 2009. Brett chose to vacate the original site after years of surrounding building works and scaffolding with no confirmed end date. He said he could no longer offer guests the standard of experience he wanted under those conditions. His move to the East Neuk is very much St Andrews’ gain and Edinburgh’s loss — the Ondine name carries weight with both tourists and locals thanks to Brett’s reputation and his assured handling of Scottish seafood. St Andrews remains a jewel in Scotland’s crown. Approaching by car, the town’s spires rise from pockets of lush green. You snake past the West Sands and the Old Course on your left and, in no time, you’re parked, climbing the steps to the first floor of Seaton House and settling into the oyster bar — a seat with a view over those same iconic landmarks. The room is elegant and sleek: marble‑polished surfaces, crisp place settings and tasteful abstracts on the walls. Light pours in, giving everything a clean, modern sheen. The pristine ambience feels purpose‑built for shellfish — a gleaming bed of ice stretches the length of the oyster bar. Mr Bite and I are here for Oyster Happy Hour, which runs from 4–5pm. With oysters usually costing £30 for six or £35 for six crispy ones cooked in Panko crumbs, happy hour is an attractive proposition with the bivalves being £2 and £3 respectively. The oysters 'au naturel' are from Carlingford, County Louth, known for their distinctive creaminess. The firecracker dressing — plenty of diced shallots and red chillies in rice vinegar — doesn’t overwhelm but offers a gently piquant lift, a twist on the traditional mignonette. Crispy oysters are a treat you don’t often find in Scotland, and Mr Bite raves about them. They’re very moreish, served with a hot sauce, and while I always prefer natural, he definitely plumps for these as his favourite. Crispy Pirelli Olives don’t quite hit the spot for us, nor does the Vietnamese dipping sauce accompanying the Mussel Popcorn. While the mussels are plump and delicious, the sauce leans heavily on fish sauce and tastes a little unbalanced — the heat, sweetness and sourness all need more prominence. All in all, though, we had a beautiful experience. The service was excellent, as was my Dry Martini and Mr Bite’s St Andrews Ale. I would definitely return to The Ondine Oyster & Grill, and I’m genuinely pleased to see Roy Brett settled into a new home — a perfect setting for his confident, seafood‑led menus. Ondine Oyster & Grill - Seaton House, The Scores, St Andrews, KY16 9AS - 01334 208 090 Related content: Fife restaurant reviews Open daily. Oyster Happy Hour: 4pm – 5pm Tuesday - Saturday

The first question I have on being invited to sample the menu at Anderson’s, Glasgow’s newest pub, before it opens next month is: is it a gastropub? After all, the head chef Inesa Dirginciute was previously head chef at London’s Michelin-starred Angler seafood restaurant (she also worked at Le Pain Quotidien), and being invited to try her menu might suggest she’s given it a lot of thought - a departure, I suspect - from the usual pie, chips, beans and a pint. Turns out the answer to my question is a sort of “nyess”. “I wouldn’t say we’re a gastropub as that suggests fine-dining in a pub setting and we’re not trying to be fine-dining,” John Molloy, director of food at the Superlative Collection, tells me. John’s empire at Superlative includes the Glasgow city centre Noble Public House, Göst, the Duke’s Umbrella, Delphine, Maison, Glaschu and Blue Dog; Anderson’s, with Inesa at the helm, is his latest venture. And would eating at a gastropub make you laugh out loud? I don’t think so. Together Inesa and John have put together a range of dishes that instantly provoke delighted sniggers because their names trigger nostalgia for what Glaswegians might have eaten as youngsters in the 1970s and 1980s. Think Crispy pancake, based on the frozen Findus version of yesteryear; Chicken Nuggets; Scotch Pie, Chips and Beans, Macaroni Pie, Special Fish Supper, Ham, Egg and Chips; or Sticky Toffee Trifle. Head Chef Inesa Dirginciute This is where the chefs’ unique type of what I’m going to dub “gallus gastronomy” becomes evident. By this I mean the food here (served in smaller portions for our tasting menu than it will be in the pub) is elevated, smart, affordable - and fun. My Crispy Pancake is filled with a deeply satisfying beef massaman coated with a Ruskoline crumb. And it’s baked, rather than deep-fried - as light as a feather and made all the more aromatic by a tamarind dipping ketchup. The Special Fish Supper (which my late father would always insist on because it was a “step above” the usual batter-heavy haddock) is an unusual grey sole fillet in an aged Comté, brown butter and Ruskoline crust - again, light and crispy and a good foil for the soft and delicate fish. The Scotch Pie is cold crust filled with venison, beef and pancetta, with house chunky chips and house baked cannellini beans. The Macaroni Pie is a firm pastry filled with creamy Comte, Parmesan and Mozzarella coated pasta. And the Smokie Fishcake is, of course, your proper Arbroath Smokie in a deliciously robust Mossgiel cream English mustard sauce. And the Ham, Egg and Chips dish (at £26 among the more expensive dishes on the menu) reveals some real haute gastronomy: it’s a chop of treacle cured chestnut-fed Iberian pork served with a duck egg and chunky chips. Lamb fat potato hash browns are made with confit neck. The visual appeal is strong throughout - another departure from the run-of-the-mill pub fare. Morning rolls are set to be a big thing here. Their crispy crumb and soft salty interior, served with Mossgiel/Wee Knob of Butter, are a brilliant replacement for the ubiquitous sourdough and the idea is to bake them according to the time of day and the food they will complement - for example, the ultra-Glasgow Iced Bun, an alternative to super-cool Freedom Bakery croissants on the morning menu, will be served with high-end flavoured icings like bergamot and orange. Well-fired Glasgow rolls, currently having a moment, are also on the Anderson's radar. The cocktails by drinks manager Ewan Angus are just as much fun as the food, and with an equally creative input. We start with a Porridge Whisky Sour, a Highland Park 12 with oat milk and oat flakes, followed by a Vimto Bramble - an intensely sweet deep purple Crème de Mûre and Beefeater serve, topped with a fresh blackberry. I love the rather more astringent Chip Shop Curry Margarita with triple sec, curried salt and honey; the Lang Clyde (a play on Long Island) Iced Tea which contains Buckfast; Absolut vodka, Beefeater gin and Cola; and to finish, a Tunnock's Teacake Old Fashioned, with twelve-year-old Macallan and marshmallow syrup, is literally topped with a teacake and a wee Coke Bottle jelly sweet. I’m giggling again. As a wine lover rather than a cocktail drinker, I find Ewan’s generous list has more to offer than many a pub. Among the reds, there’s a Puglian Primitivo and a Peth Wetz Spätburgunder, Rheinhessen and in the whites I spot an Alsatian organic Moshi Moshi. There’s a French Orange wine and a Crémant de Loire and much more. As chef Molloy says with a grin: “We’re doing this because we think it’s the best we can do,” and I can only agree. Related content: Glasgow reviews Anderson’s, 50-60 King Street, Glasgow G1 5QT, opens on July 10, 2026. It will be open from 10am to 1am Monday to Sunday.

Lennox brings Chef Nico Simeone’s raw, instinctive cooking style to Edinburgh this July, transforming the former Six by Nico site into an intimate, fire‑led restaurant built around flavour, technique and a fully open kitchen. Chef and restaurateur Nico Simeone has announced the opening of Lennox Edinburgh this July, marking the third location for his acclaimed new restaurant concept following openings in Manchester and Glasgow. Created as a more personal expression of Simeone's cooking philosophy, Lennox offers a deliberate change from the format-driven approach that made Six by Nico one of Britain's most recognised restaurant groups. Instead, Lennox is built around instinct, flavour, and the raw energy of the kitchen, delivering ingredient-led dishes rooted in nostalgia, technique, and indulgence. Edinburgh’s West End has been selected as the concept's third home. At the heart of Lennox Edinburgh will be a fully visible kitchen, there will be dry-ageing cabinets for meats on display and a bespoke barbecue-grill. The restaurant's design will reflect the now-distinctive Lennox aesthetic, combining raw materials, steel, concrete, and low lighting to create an intimate, atmospheric space where the food remains the focal point. Lennox is Inspired by New York's dining scene and Chef Nico Simeone said: "Launching Lennox has been a really exciting next step in my career. The positive feedback and response we've seen in Manchester and Glasgow has been incredible, and opening in Edinburgh feels like a natural next step for the concept. Lennox allows me to cook instinctively and personally. It's about stripping everything back to what matters most: great ingredients, great technique, and food that people genuinely want to eat. Edinburgh has long been a huge part of my journey as a chef, and I’m really excited to be able to bring this next step to one of the first cities I opened in many years ago.” The menu draws inspiration from timeless classics, reimagined through contemporary techniques. Lennox Edinburgh will open at 40 Queensferry St, Edinburgh EH2 4RA, on the former siteof Six by Nico. Six by Nico's Edinburgh flagship restaurant on Hanover Street will continue to operate the six-course, ever-changing tasting menu for which Simeone is famed across the UK. Due to the intimate, strict capacity limits of the new venue, tables are expected to be in exceptionally high demand. To secure a spot, diners are encouraged to register for exclusive priority access. Sign-ups for the priority booking window open today at lennoxrestaurant.co.uk/coming-soon Those on the priority list will receive the first exclusive opportunity to book tables for the opening weeks before general public release. Lennox Edinburgh, 40 Queensferry St, Edinburgh EH2 4RA