David Smith - Head Chef at The Dipping Lugger When I was young, family holidays in Ullapool meant dad buying my brother and me simple fishing lines to unwind from their frames and drop from the old wooden pier. If memory serves me right, we caught the odd mackerel and various other tiddlers.  Now that pier has evolved into a grown-up hub for ferries and fishing boats, a pontoon for yachts and a ramp and moorings for the local sailing club. Spanish fleets come for Loch Broom’s seasonal deep-water hake, ling and monkfish while, generally speaking, Scottish ones fish the haddock and monkfish. At the end of a September day, you can still see the wee boats tied up at the old pier after a day’s foray for shellfish. The Dipping Lugger is in a former manse At the Dipping Lugger - an elegant 18th-century former manse on the waterfront near the pier, newly converted into a stylish restaurant with rooms and named after a sailing vessel which uses a lug sail - it quickly becomes clear that bagging the fruits of beautiful Loch Broom is a priority for chef David Smith. A stunning dish of a large meaty scallop topped with a light tempura oyster and bathed in a flavoursome smoked haddock velouté kicks off our meal, instantly assuring diners of chef’s commitment to sourcing hyper-local shellfish and serving it in a way that showcases his talent. The striking crockery is bespoke by Highland Stoneware, using the rock that the Dipping Lugger sits on.  Next up is celeriac gnocchi - three super-earthy wee dumplings - with a creamy truffle espuma and truffle shavings. This surprising dish is deeply delicious and served as a buffer before the next shellfish offering: a dinky beremeal pastry Loch Broom crab tart. This pretty wee triumph of culinary technique boasts a disc of jellied crab bisque with pickled cucumber and caviar, though perhaps the delicate flavour of the white crab could be elevated by a touch of brown. Cosy and homely accomodation A tender cut of local venison is accompanied by three forms of mushroom: braised foraged Chanterelles, a purée and an espuma. A sliver of local black pudding and a deep-fried cylinder of salsify from the kitchen garden complete the lip-smacking dish. The icing on the cake for me, though, is the Morangie Brie on a homemade HobNob biscuit, topped with a slick of (garden) greengage purée and served with a cold glass of Lost Orchards cider from Dundee. The delicate flavour of the cheese balances well with the pale, softly effervescent apple of the cider, though I reckon the savoury-sweetness of the biscuit could also stand up to a Blue Murder from the same Highland Fine Cheesemakers.  A beautiful Black Isle yogurt parfait coated with snappy white chocolate and served with a tart sorrel sorbet completes our meal. The double highlights of breakfast the next day are the Loch Broom smoked halibut, served simply on local stone, and chef’s own “butteries” - a 50/50 blend of Scottish butter and lard with Blackthorn salt from Ayrshire, prompting co-owner and front of house Robert Hicks to describe them as Scottish croissants.  I enjoyed the honesty of chef Smith’s cooking. He came to the Dipping Lugger from Ullinish Lodge on Skye, and is a protégé of the redoubtable Charles Lockley, who gained a Michelin Star for Boath House near Nairn. Smith works with just one sous-chef, which makes the quality of his work all the more breathtaking. His restaurant was full on the weekday evening we were there. Our nearest companions were English and Scottish, and I’m told European visitors make up a significant volume of his clientele. Which suggests that even in dear old Ullapool there’s room for the growing global gastronomy movement. The Dipping Lugger, Ullapool, Wester Ross, IV26 2UR - hello@thedippinglugger.com 01854 613344

Dean Banks Popular Edinburgh restaurant Dulse by Dean Banks Group is bringing its offering of fresh, local seafood to the shore. Next Wednesday, 13 November, the second location of his acclaimed restaurant, Dulse , will open in Leith.   This expansion follows a record year for the original Dulse in the capitol city’s West End, and the success of the group’s seafood pop-up, Plaice, which ran over the summer.   Dulse has built a reputation for seasonality and fine local ingredients. The new location plans to showcase the best of Scotland’s seafood. By using independent producers and maintaining close relationships with suppliers, Dulse will ensure that produce is fresh, traceable, and supportive of the local economy.   In its opening week, the new Leith location of Dulse will offer 30% off the total bill, available throughout the opening week by quoting 'LOBSTER' on booking.   CEO Dean Banks commented: “After our Plaice pop-up this summer was a huge success, it showed us that there was a real demand for quality seafood that’s locally sourced and affordable. The support we received from the community was overwhelming and made it clear that opening a second Dulse was the right move." He continued ... “We’re excited to bring top-tier Scottish seafood back to the port neighbourhood of Leith, and we look forward to welcoming guests back to enjoy our fresh seafood in a relaxed setting.” Credit: Grant Anderson Dulse will be open for dinner seven days a week from 5 pm, and for lunch from 12 pm Wednesday – Saturday.   Book your table in advance by calling 07429415739 or visiting https://www.dulse.co.uk .

Host Tom Lewis, Monachyle Mhor It says a lot that tickets for a one-off gastronomic event prepared by five of Glasgow’s most progressive chefs, with proceeds going directly to the independently-run Drumchapel Food Bank, sold out within seconds of the event going online.  Eighty diners from the city are set to travel to the famous Monachyle Mhor hotel in Perthshire this Sunday [Jan 26] for Mhor Food for Folk, a £95-a-head five-course meal prepared by Graeme Cheevers of the Michelin-starred Unalome; Peter McKenna of The Gannet; David Scott of CrabShakk; Jay Ward of Partick Duck Club, and Tom Lewis of Monachyle Mhor. It’s hoped that the event - which includes music by event co-ordinator Ryan Hannigan and a curated programme of interviews, tastings, auction and workshops - will raise an unprecedented £10,000 for the Drumchapel Food Bank, which currently helps feed an astonishing average of 1500 people a month - up from 320 a month ten years ago - and counting. Peter McKenna, The Gannet With no government funding, the food bank, in the north-west of Glasgow, relies entirely on donations from local businesses and individuals. It was founded in 2010 by Liz Atkinson (mother of Glasgow chef Conor McGeady of Fallachan Kitchen, who with girlfriend Ava Richardson, GM of Margo restaurant in the city, will be volunteering at the event). Unlike many food banks that open one day a week, it operates five days a week (Monday to Friday), reflecting the scale and urgency of the demand from all parts of the city. All money raised at Mhor Food for Folk, including drinks purchased at the bar and accommodation costs, will go directly to the food bank. Monachyle Mhor “We chefs all know each other, and we’re all aware of the reality for so many poeple, so this was a natural evolution,” said Peter Mckenna of The Gannet, who was pivotal in setting the event in motion and will prepare the dessert of barley, hazelnut and Barebones chocolate sphere with Guinness ice-cream. “We realised that there is hardship for so many people over Christmas but even more so in January and February. We think this is the right thing to do. If we can help raise much-needed funds while raising awareness of food poverty in our diners, it has to be a good thing. And we’re hoping this will be the start of something regular.” Beth Doran of Gusbourne Wines, which is pairing two of the courses - Graeme Cheevers’ starter of Loch Melfort sea trout with mackerel cream, kombu and ponzu, and Jay Ward’s duck leg and beef dripping hash brown - said she is overwhelmed by the “tremendous” response from the chefs and from the public, who all signed up immediately.   “Without wishing sound corny, food and such a universal language. If you have a friend who’s having problems you offer them a meal and a drink to talk things over and this is what we’re trying to do here if on a larger scale. This is the only charitable event we’re donating to for the whole year, and we’re really proud to be involved.” Host Tom Lewis, who is cooking the main course dish of beef from the Monachyle estate served with hard-fried crispy trim fat Puy lentils, added: “This is the first time we’ve done something city-based. It’s not for self-promotion, it’s about working together in a common aim to raise more people’s awareness of what’s going on. It’s wonderful to see how generous everybody has been and we hope this is the start of something.” Chef Cheevers also noted that a growing number of people using food banks are in full-time employment on low pay. “With interest rates rocketing and mortgage rates doubling, disposable incomes have gone down while the cost of living has shot up. So many hard-working citizens are feeling the pinch and if we can help we are happy.” Graeme Cheevers, Unalome Liz Atkinson has been invited to speak at the event. She will tell real-life scenarios from the food bank, including how many desperately needy people are sent by the local job centre to go to her for help. “I may break down and cry,” she told Bite. “It’s just so emotional for me to talk about. Running this food bank is about much more than just giving people a bag of food. It’s goes from crisis welfare support in times of desperate need to helping the working poor all across the entire west of Glasgow to offering talk therapy. I hope my talk will let diners know what is the reality for increasing numbers of people. It’s exactly like the Ken Loach film I, Daniel Blake. “With zero-hour contracts and energy and mortgage price hikes people are slipping through the net. We have to remember many people can be just one pay cheque away from a food bank. “We are overwhelmed with gratitude at this event. Now we will be able to give fresh, nutritious food and not just tins and processed packs. People deserve a healthy diet and a modicum of dignity. For us to be given £10,000 from Mhor Food for Folk is literally a dream come true.” * Mhor Food for Folk takes place on Sunday, January 26 at Monachyle Mhor, Perthshire The menu: Cured and lightly grilled Loch Melfort sea trout Radish, cucumber, smoked  mackerel cream, kombu& Ponzu Graeme Cheevers   BBQ duck leg & beef dripping hash brown, nduja cabbage, bearnaise Jay Ward   Cuttlefish ragu bao bun with cuttlefish ink and red wine sauce David Scott   Monachyle beef, puy lentils, white onion puree, crispy beef fat, seasonal greens Tom Lewis   Malted barley, hazelnut and barebones 68% sphere, Guinness ice cream Peter McKenna

Chef/patro Tobias Siegel So I’m sipping a pale green Wasabi Margarita while contemplating the bright white bun that's in front of me. There’s a square panko-coated cut of dry-aged spiced pig’s head inserted into its fluffy middle, topped with wafer-thin slices of pickled cucumber and house mustard, while underneath is a dollop of crunchy mooli coleslaw.  The unusual combo turns out to be a taste and texture sensation, and a clever one; I get the link between the wasabi and the house mustard.  It’s my first proper experience of chef-led pan-Asian cuisine, which may seem strange given the influx of Asian supermarkets and restaurants in this part of Glasgow - Finnieston and Partick, close to the University of Glasgow and its increasing demographic of Asian students and academics.  Bao - Pig's Head - Mustard - Pickled Cucumber Now I’m about to find out what it’s all about, courtesy of Tobias Siegel, the Italian-Australian chef who grew up in Sydney, head-cheffing at Nordic/Japanese fusion cafe Edition before moving to Scandinavia work in top restaurants in Copenhagen and Finland, then coming to Edinburgh to Stuart Ralston at Aizle. After seven years in Scotland he has now landed in Glasgow’s Finnieston to open his first restaurant, Extra_Ordinary - taking over Six by Nico’s Sole Club site. It offers a menu inspired by his travels to Tokyo, Seoul and Hong Kong.  'Chef' says he wants to offer the kind of approachable cuisine he likes to eat, noting that our Scottish knowledge of North-East Asian cuisine is lacking. “I see people being intimidated when in an Asian supermarket or restaurant, but the quality of the ingredients is very high,” he said. “I love to air-dry, ferment, pickle. I dehydrate herbs, pollens and mushrooms to make powders. “This is the food I like to eat - lots of umami and different flavours.” The interior is painted black and shiny - reminiscent of a bento box. The tiny, shiny black-painted restaurant is beautifully fitted out and I immediately spot an air-drier cabinet full of cuts of pork slowly ageing - while artfully uplit - in chef’s own combination of spices. It turns out that everything here is made from scratch, right down to Udon noodles with XO mussels in a warm spicy broth, and a pulled pork and dashi cream pancake - which Tobias makes simply with flour and warm water to help stretch the gluten before adding extra flavours.  Every small hand-crafted dish we taste is loaded - sometimes a tad overloaded for me - with different flavours and textures, and reflects chef's input; I’d describe it as a mix of spicy and earthy. And back to that Bao bun - a simple mix of flour, yeast, sugar, baking powder, milk and oil, which is steamed rather than baked. I reckon it’s pretty but rather bland with a chewy mouthfeel. But in its favour, it’s a good foil for the extraordinary range of sweet, sour, earthy and spicy fillings it holds within it. I don’t even attempt to try it with the designer chopsticks at my table setting. Extra_Ordinary’s cocktails dominate the drinks menu, and I can see why. There’s a Yuzi Sour, a Plum Sake Spritz, a Tokyo Negroni (with nori seaweed), a Ponzu Bloody Mary (with ponzu and pickled ginger) and a Pandan Sour. They’re created specifically to match the food and, if they’re anything like my Wasabi Margarita, lighter, with a kick to cut through but also complement the food. Most of the diners around me are ordering them rather than wine. My pan-Asian culinary discovery complete, all I can find to say as a goodbye to chef is, rather embarrassingly, “Slainte”. Extra_Ordinary: 1132 Argyle Street, Finnieston, Glasgow, G3 8TD

Rubia Gallega RUSK & RUSK, the independent Scottish restaurant group, responsible for The Spanish Butcher opens at 58A North Castle Street on May 10. Photos reveal an aesthetic oozing with signature style where Galicia meets Brooklyn. With the lust-worthy loft-style vibes of New York, The Spanish Butcher, Edinburgh will be a tasteful destination. A fusion of ultra-luxe comfort, rich deep tones, the finest natural materials, and bold, edgy industrial accents; all combine with exceptional food and relaxed day-to-night conviviality. Elsewhere, big, confident statements are made across the exposed brick. The Spanish Butcher’s signature green, rattan panels frame the bar with meticulous symmetry, antique smoky mirrors, and lush Kentia palms, whilst lighting takes the equestrian rein with custom-made brass and glass globe lighting strapped with leather, and bow and arrow wall sconces. James and Louise Rusk Speaking about this latest new development, James and Louise Rusk, co-founders of RUSK & RUSK said: “North Castle Street has a remarkable storied history, and we are excited to be contributing to its placemaking within the capital. Our commitment to this new restaurant, and to the city, is very much reflected in the quality and detail of The Spanish Butcher's design. We hope our customers love its stylish mid-century aesthetic and welcoming neighbourhood vibe, and we can’t wait to share details soon on the menu!” Foodwise the new 90-cover restaurant offers vibrant Spanish and Mediterranean-inspired flavours, married with the very best homegrown produce from Scotland’s larder. Grilled Rubia Gallega Taking centre stage on the à la carte menu is a selection of cuts from the Rubia Gallega breed of cattle native to northwest Spain, a region known for its greenery. What makes the Rubia Gallega cattle, also known as Galician blonde, so special is the unique life they have as retired dairy cows, left to graze and roam freely on the lush Spanish pastures that Galicia is famed for. Typically the age of the cattle can be up to 8-12 years old. This difference in the maturity of the cattle comes through in the remarkable flavour of Galician beef, defined by a deep red colour paired with an intensely rich taste. Add a long specialised dry-aging process of up to 50 days for some cuts resulting in a flavour explosion. Galician Porterhouse, known as the king of steaks, combines the best of both worlds with a buttery slice of fillet and a chunky piece of sirloin, or enjoy the deliciously lean celebratory classic Chateaubriand. Also on the menu is a wildly popular 'Galician Sundays' and a full selection of dry-aged sirloins, rib-eyes, fillets and big Scotch Tomahawks made famous 14 years ago at The Spanish Butcher’s sister Scottish steakhouse, The Butchershop in Glasgow’s west end. Knockout sauces, from the Picos Blue, Romesco or Mojo Verde to toppers like Grilled Bone Marrow or Prawns with garlic and paprika, join high-grade mains such as Whole Roasted Suckling Pig to share, roasted Shetland Monkfish tail on the bone, whole baked Seabass, the classic Galician fillet burger, or the amazing grilled Cauliflower “Steak” & Mojo Verde with Potatoes “A La Pobre”, Caperberries, and Piquillo Peppers.  Appetizers tempt with dishes such as Sherry Glazed Ibérico Pork Cheek, Chargrilled Octopus & Squid, Hake Ceviche, Galician Fillet Sliders, Espuma, Seared King Scallops, Padron Peppers, and a Charcutería for Two to Share.

Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum dressed for the occasion As soon as it was announced that Glasgow was to host the prestigious Michelin Guide UK 2025 awards ceremony earlier this month - the first time the event would be in Scotland in the 125 years of the global restaurant guide - speculation was, naturally, rife. Was another Glasgow restaurant going to be awarded a Michelin star? Or would one of its 2-starred restaurants ( Cail Bruich and Unalome ) even get a second star? Rumours swirled, names were named. Why else would Glasgow have been given the honour of staging a starry ceremony that hundreds of chefs of top-rated restaurants would attend? Mark Donald of the 2-star Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, Crieff, at the pre-party. Cold weather and freezing rain couldn’t dampen the excitement on the night as Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum rose majestically to the occasion. Brightly lit and blissfully warm, and with just a hint of the distinctive aroma that hugs history, coats were shrugged off, selfies taken with the Michelin Man and champagne glasses clinked. Then the surreptitious eye-scan for celebrity faces began as anticipation grew.  As the call came to leave the upstairs bars and take our seats in the packed-out main hall, the magnificent pipe organ - built in 1901 for the Glasgow International Festival - burst into life to begin a stunning duet with the bagpiper (though it was sometimes difficult to hear over the noise of the exuberant chatter below). I spotted Clare Smythe, Tom Kerridge and Sat Bains leaning over the balcony to watch the proceedings from on high. Then the ceremony began. In the end, the host city got no new Stars, but it gained two new Bib Gourmands for GaGa and Margo . Edinburgh’s Avery and Lyla were each awarded a new Star, plus a Bib Gourmand for Roberta Hall-McCarron’s Ardfern and Tomas Gormley’s Skua . The fifth new Bib was awarded to the Fish Shop in Ballater . No Stars or Bibs were lost. Pam Brunton’s Inver at Strachur remains the only restaurant in Scotland with a Green Michelin Star for its ethical credentials.  This brings to 11 the number of Michelin-starred restaurants in Scotland, plus our two two-starred restaurants Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles and The Glenturret Lalique in Crieff. The lack of new stars for Glasgow did nothing to curb its enthusiasm for grasping the golden opportunity - clinched and organised by Scotland Food & Drink and Glasgow Life - to showcase its gastronomic glories. At the after-party at the funky Old Fruitmarket in the Merchant City, I was proudly informed that Jonathan McDonald and Rob Aitken of Margo restaurant had hosted a pre-awards lunch for some of London’s top chefs including Clare Smyth of the 3-star Core; Claudi Bosi of 2-star Bibendum; Sat Bains of the 2-star eponymous restaurant in Nottingham; Paul Ainsworth of the Michelin starred No6 in Padstow; Gareth Ward of 2-star ymyshir jn Wales, Brett Graham of the Ledbury, and others. Alain Roux and Stevie McLaughlin went there for dinner. Meanwhile, Lorna McNee at Cail Bruich had hosted Raymond Blanc of the 2-star Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Tom Aikens of the one-star Muse, John Williams of the 2-star Restaurant at The Ritz, Jocky Petrie of 3-star Fat Duck, Bray, and Aktar Islam of the 2-star Opheem.  Gary McLean and Andy Cumming serving up prime Scottish seafood at the queued-out stall at the Old Fruitmarket after-party. And two blocks away from Kelvingrove, on the eve of the ceremony, Graeme Cheevers at Unalome had hosted for dinner Alice Bussie of 2-star Hide and Fox, Kent; Michael Viljanen of 2-star Chapter One in Dublin; Mike Tweedie of one-star Oak Room at Adare Manor, Limerick; and Stephen Toman of one-star Ox, Belfast. At the excellent Michelin industry event at BAaD (Barras Art & Design) venue the next morning, organised by Scotland Food & Drink and hosted by Julie Lin of GaGa, it was good to hear panellist Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, acknowledge the benefits to Glasgow, and Scotland as a whole, of the Michelin presence. “The impact a Michelin star has on a city is a ‘game-changer’ for the positive impact it has on the food industry as a whole,” he said. “We’re also talking about the producers, the products, the ingredients. The choice of the product is the responsibility of the chef, but the ambience and presentation of his or her work is down to the front-of-house server. There are more restaurants opening than ever before, and Michelin now covers 50 different countries and is about to expand into Canada." And in that global picture Scotland has a lot to offer. “Chefs and their teams are opening their own restaurants, bringing experiences that reflect their own personality and local community. That adds a lot to the culinary experience of a city,” he said. “Authenticity is key for Michelin. Chefs are raising the bar as ambassadors of their territory.” Raymond Blanc of the two-star Manoir aux Quat’Saisons enjoying a scallop and caviar ceviche canapé at the after-party. This “think global, eat local” mantra was emphasised by fellow panellist Jonathan McDonald of Scoop restaurant group, who described how the Southeast Asian menu at Ka Pao, for example, uses local produce as much as possible to recreate flavours that would otherwise be flown in. He cited Granny Smith apples for an acidic punch, and Arbroath smokies wrapped in locally foraged sorrel leaves to replace the iconic Bonito fish dishes that are wrapped in banana leaves. “It’s all about a sense of place,” he said, adding that he now employs 200 across his four restaurants. Naming local produce, producers and provenance on menus may have gone slightly out of fashion but for those restaurants that do name them, the benefits to the producer can be significant. Panellist Katy Rodgers of Knockraich Dairy Farm near Glasgow said that every mention of her name on the menus at Cail Bruich, Old Course St Andrews and Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, for example, brings in more customers.  The chefs brought along some team members to the awards ceremony and to eat in the city, echoing the importance placed by Mr Poullennec on front-of-house to any restaurant. A burning issue was the lack of female chefs coming into the industry, and in a video presentation Clare Smyth, Helene Darroze and Lorna McNee were showcased as shining examples of how far it’s possible to go and to encourage more young women. “You can do this!” said Chef Lorna. And Glasgow proved her point by daring to aim high - and succeeding with honours if not more Stars

The Bonnie Badger in Gullane The National Pub & Bar Awards announced that Broc Bar at The Bonnie Badger in Gullane has officially been named East Lothian Pub & Bar of the Year 2024. Broc Bar at The Bonnie Badger scooped the title, which it has held onto for the third year in a row, as it continues to champion East Lothian and its enviable food and drink offering.  The judges recognised The Bonnie Badger for its excellent food and drink offering and its commitment to local sourcing, service, team training, support and engagement, and a proactive approach to sustainability. Set in the heart of East Lothian's coastal village of Gullane, The Bonnie Badger opened in 2018 and is the first ‘restaurant with rooms’ from husband-and-wife team Tom and Michaela Kitchin.  The Broc Bar The Bonnie Badger is a gourmet bolthole, renowned for its gastropub offering at Broc Bar.  A proud holder of a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand since 2019, The Bonnie Badger offers quality Scottish gastropub dishes, in a warm and convivial atmosphere. Commenting on the recognition, The Bonnie Badger Chef Owner Tom Kitchin said: “It has been an incredibly busy year at The Bonnie Badger as we celebrated five years since opening.  From partnerships with The Genesis Scottish Open, Seedlip Alcohol-free Spirits and Sam Heughan’s Sassenach Spirits, to fundraising events with sporting legends such as Graeme Souness and supporting the next generation of footballing talent at Gullane Athletic FC – it has been an exciting year for our visitors, our local community, and indeed our team. “For us, East Lothian is a really special place.  We feel incredibly lucky that The Bonnie Badger is located in the heart of the enviable coastline, giving us access to some of the best produce in the world.” “We truly appreciate the support and recognition from The National Pub & Bar Awards and congratulate all of the other winners from across the UK who are flying the flag for their own area’s food and drink.” When Tom and Michaela Kitchin opened Broc Bar at The Bonnie Badger in 2018, they set out to create a special place that put great pub food front and centre, while creating a warm and welcoming space for the local community to enjoy.  Today, Broc Bar continues to set itself apart as a destination where the local community comes together with golfers, gourmands and East Lothian explorers.  The venue offers a creative gastropub menu, a wide range of carefully sourced drinks and a calendar of immersive events, allowing guests to learn about food, drink, locality and seasonality. At the very heart of the venue, is a deep-rooted commitment to local sourcing and the Scottish seasons.  The philosophy is evident in the menus that showcase modern Scottish pub classics alongside ever-changing seasonal specials, as well as in the respect and care for the local area, local producers and across the events and experiences on offer. The National Pub & Bar Awards aims to showcase the UK’s finest pubs and bars throughout the UK.

the Bonnie Badger, Gullane Ben Branson, founder of non-alcoholic brand Seedlip and Michelin chef Tom Kitchin have an instinctive synergy. Mother nature underpins the ethos of both of their businesses and also reflects the agricultural influences in both of their backgrounds. The Bonnie Badger is Tom Kitchin’s Gullane gastropub which sits alongside Scran and Scallie, The Kitchin, and Kora. The ‘Badger’ has rooms, bar, restaurant, private dining, and a large garden space with a fire. It sits on the main street of the small East Lothian town and the building is carpeted in leaves. Garden Room This summer Seedlip and Kitchin are collaborating in a special ‘Seedlip Serves’ menu inspired by the herbs and botanicals grown at The Bonnie Badger. I visit in early May to sample this menu which is served in the garden’s outdoor room. Tom’s wife and business associate Michaela designs the restaurants and her native Swedish influence is evident. Lamps, wildflowers, and a long wooden table adorned with jars and boxes of herbs is all charmingly Scandi. The meal is an opportunity to both appreciate Seedlip’s versatility as well as tasting Tom’s seasonal dishes. Before we dine Ben discusses the fact that we have 47,000 edible plants of which we eat very few. Biodiversity is exciting and it kickstarted Ben to start distilling in his own kitchen, which in turn, led to him becoming a pioneer of non-alcoholic spirits. Seedlip is now largely owned by Diageo and sold in 35 countries globally. Tom Kitchin & Ben Branson Gazpacho is served with a Seedlip sorbet and a Carrot Cocktail of Seedlip Grove 42, Carrot, soda and sage. It’s invigorating. A delicious daily five in one course including mushroom focaccia to the side. Next up is Raviolo of fresh herbs, ricotta, Scottish asparagus, peas, and broad beans. This screams “primavera” and is complemented by Seedlip Garden 108, elderflower cordial, cucumber, lime and mint. The lime enhances all ingredients and adds a welcome sour note. It’s a grown up mocktail served in a balloon glass. (Side note: Ben from Seedlip has the word PEAS tattooed on his hand.) For dessert, Scottish strawberries and East Lothian elderflower mousse are summer in a bowl. This time accompanied by ‘Basil & Berries’ Seedlip Spice 94, grapefruit, lemon and strawberries. A cute red cocktail served in a Nick and Nora glass with peg of basil for garnish. The explosion of colourful seasonal ingredients and skill of creating such cocktails and dishes is intoxicating negating the need for alcoholic drinks. If this is the standard that The Bonnie Badger sets a return visit is a no-brainer; moreover, it has just been recognised as East Lothian Pub & Bar of the Year at this year's National Pub & Bar Awards. The Bonnie Badger - Main St, Gullane EH31 2AB - 01620 621111

Tiramisu East Coast has all the ingredients of a good Italian restaurant; it’s family-friendly, has a focus on fish and shellfish and a proud Italian heritage. Located on Musselburgh High Street near the Brunton Theatre the restaurant is a ray of sunshine and a hub of warmth on an otherwise chilly, gray evening when Mr Bite and I visit. We instantly relax and take our place amongst the group of locals enjoying the hospitality. There is a sister chippy next door which was the well-kent Coral Reef until the present owners Carlo and Katia Crolla began a new era with their rebranded East Coast. They were particularly active offering takeaways during lockdown. We start by ordering some Gordal Olives to nibble on and complement our drinks. I have an East Coast Negroni; the Campari gin-vermouth cocktail at East Coast is topped up with prosecco. Stewart Brewing is a local supplier and Mr Bite enjoys a bottle of St Giles ale. Scotch Egg and Whisky Sauce The nibbles mean I only need a couple of Cumbrian Oysters for starters while Mr B has a Scotch Egg. The £10 price tag seems steep but it is the size of a large orange and the whisky sauce to the side is an ingenious touch. Moreover, the sausage meat wrapping is pleasantly herbaceous and the egg is gold standard organic. We sink further into the unbuttoned vibe and choose a couple of indulgent main courses. Lobster Spaghetti from the specials board for him and I go “all-out” with Lobster Thermidor. Both are rich dishes with the sweetest lobster I have tasted. Mr Bite likes that his pasta is cooked al dente. Pasta and piscine combos abound but there are also meat and veggie options. We order Tiramisu and Cranachan Cheesecake for dessert. Tiramisu means “lift me up” and Ado Campeol who invented the dish died in 2021. Apparently it was an accidental dessert that was the result of dropping mascarpone into eggs and sugar. At East Coast this Italian treat is drenched with coffee liqueur. The cheesecake also has a thick wedge of heavy cream cheese the texture of which is enhanced by the addition of oats. A tart raspberry compote cuts through the richness. A very good meal all round with honest food from the ‘‘Honest Toun’ At East Coast. (S. Wilson) East Coast - 171-173 North High Street, Musselburgh, EH21 6AN - 0131 665 2079

Fisher’s is a classic city centre bistro specialising in fresh fish and seafood with the service and décor you would expect from a smart establishment. It was also just fresh from winning Best Seafood restaurant of the Year at the Evening Times Restaurant Awards when Bite visited last month. There is a Fishers Favourites menu (cream chowder and fishcakes are personal faves) and there are always fresh oysters, natural, grilled and tempura. My grilled half dozen came this time around with seasonal wild garlic butter and toasted hazelnuts, the crunch mixing nicely with the creamy oysters from Loch Creran. Shell slurping is acceptable. Liz had chosen, from the a la carte, sea bass and lime tartare with pickled fried red onions.Again freshness and texture were keynotes here. Liz is a WSET Level 4 wine student so took advantage of the Coravin system to taste Pinot Gris Reserve, Rolly Gassmann, 2008 Alsace. To my novice palate it had honey, stone fruit, some minerality and was lusciously full bodied and somewhat sweet. Liz had chosen it to riff off of the fresh piquant tartare. For main course I chose halibut with spring onion & pumpkin seed spelt risotto; a delicious hunk of fish on a nutty base. The halibut was very slightly overdone for my taste and I think the plate would have benefited from a squish of lemon juice but we are splitting hairs; the course was delicious. Liz tucked in to hand dived Orkney scallops, anchovies, parsley & mint oil and commented "the unusual use of mint on scallop dressing with parsley oil was a tasty & refreshing way of adding fresh piquancy to the rich scallops”. The bivalves came with "deliciously moist crushed garlic oil potatoes”. Desserts were a stretch for our tummies but I admit I was game. I wanted the classic crème brulee which came in a wide shallow dish with the thick glass brittle of burnt toffee on top and a sugary disc of home made shortbread. Liz chose a scoop of vanilla ice cream and one of rhubarb sorbet from Over Langshaw farm in Galashiels, which she said were ‘spectacularly good’ with the texture of the sorbet being creamy, velvety and fruity. Fresh seafood, fine wines and creamy desserts ticked all the boxes for us. There is a reason why Fisher’s is so popular and with all the new kids popping up I note that it remains excellent value for money. Fishers in the City 58 Thistle Street, Edinburgh, Midlothian, EH2 1EN 0131 225 5109 12 noon - late.

On its website, Fishers Leith claims to be "the last word in Edinburgh's finest casual dining for the last 20 years". Its location, in a 17th-century watchtower, right on the Shore in Leith, is certainly promising. I don't know if there has ever been any research into whether seafood actually tastes better in close proximity to water, but I find a view of boats from the window always helps. The restaurant is small and surprisingly, for a Wednesday night, bustling with happy diners. That thing of legend, the Scottish Summer, was in full swing and spirits were high. The place is popular with tourists it seems, the voices around us came in various different languages and accents, and we were impressed to see the friendly waitress conversing easily in French with the table next to ours. To start, I couldn't resist the classic: fat, juicy Shetland mussels steamed in white wine, cream and garlic, though the squid salad was apparently also delicious and perfectly balanced with the smoky chorizo. For main course, I was torn between a fillet of plaice and the whole lemon sole. I was encouraged by our waiter to go for the sole as this seems to be a signature dish for the restaurant and his father's favourite. Although I usually opt for a simpler fillet, I certainly did not regret my choice as the fish fell off the bones without effort and melted in the mouth. It was served with smoked salmon, lemon & tarragon butter and buttery new potatoes. My usually fish-skeptical dining partner delightedly wolfed down the hake with clams and samphire in a cider cream sauce. The sticky toffee pudding and hazelnut brownie, perhaps slightly heavy choices to end the meal, were both excellent, though the brownie might have been easier to eat if the hazelnuts were chopped rather than whole. The sun is currently shining on Edinburgh, in both a meteorological and culinary sense. At a time when it seems a fantastic new restaurant is opening in the city every week, it is important not to forget those eateries like Fishers that have stood the test of time and consistently impress. Fishers in Leith 1 The Shore, Edinburgh, EH6 6QW 0131 554 5666 Mon-Sat 12pm - Late Sunday 12:30pm - Late

It is in that simplest of British dishes, Fish & Chips, that this place excels. The East Lothian town of North Berwick is an ideal affordable day out from Edinburgh, just 30 minutes on the train from the city centre, and offering a treasure trove of independent shops and eateries. For the more active, there are sandy beaches for swimming, kayaking or paddle-boarding, and coastal walks – to Yellowcraigs in one direction and Canty Bay (and the fabulous Drift Café) in the other – or the popular hike up North Berwick Law. After a strenuous ramble or tour of the many unique gift and charity shops, there is no shortage of pubs, restaurants and cafés to refuel, including pastry purveyors Bostock Bakery, Edinburgh favourites Herringbone, and the charming, family-owned Osteria. The Rocketeer inhabits the old Coastguard station However, for a satisfying seaside lunch on a budget, my vote goes to The Lobster Shack (check out my previous review) or, on a brisk, cold January day, its sister restaurant The Rocketeer. Named after the local volunteers who fired rockets with rescue lines attached across the bows of stricken vessels in the Firth of Forth, The Rocketeer inhabits the old coastguard station and has an enviable location overlooking Milsey Bay and out to Bass Rock. This makes it the perfect place to enjoy coastal views in cold or stormy weather. Seafood is always best enjoyed as close to the sea as possible, and the restaurant is also a registered First Fish Buyer, securing the freshest, ethically caught seafood directly from the boats in the harbour, as well as supporting other local businesses like Anderson Butchers and Belhaven Smokehouse. Seafood by the seaside While the Seafood Chowder, Salt & Pepper Squid and North Berwick Lobster are all delicious, it is in that simplest of British dishes, Fish & Chips, that this place excels. The generous portion of flaky, creamy haddock can be enjoyed just grilled or breaded if desired, but the light, almost tempura-like beer batter is hard to resist. Paired with double-dipped chips, homemade tartare sauce and a crisp white wine, it can’t be beaten. Both the breaded and battered fish can also be made gluten-free, which is unusual. Home-made cakes are available if you have any space left, though I would usually save myself for a gelato at nearby Alandas, whatever the weather. Enjoying the warming effects of a hearty plate of food and a glass of wine for just over £20, it’s easy to see why North Berwick was named the best place to live in the UK by  The Sunday Times . If only the house prices were a little more budget-friendly. The Rocketeer, 26 Victoria Road, North Berwick, East Lothian EH39 4JL - 01620 895577 OPENING TIMES: Sunday 9am - 4pm, Mon, Tues, Wed & Thur 9am - 3.30pm Friday and Saturday 9am - 7.30pm