Wine - Classic Regions, Hidden Gems

There’s a common misconception that restaurant wine lists fall into one of two camps: either filled with familiar favourites or packed with obscure bottles that require a wine dictionary to decipher. In reality, the best lists strike a balance between the two.

I spoke to three of Scotland's leading sommeliers and restaurateurs to discover the bottles they're most excited about, why they deserve a place on your table, and how they encourage guests to venture just a little beyond their comfort zone.

Elizabeth Mellish

Head Sommelier, The Spence, Gleneagles Townhouse

Elizabeth describes The Spence's list as "classic and approachable, with something for everyone, while still encouraging guests to explore and discover something new."

Alongside benchmark regions and iconic producers sit bottles from smaller producers and emerging regions, giving guests the opportunity to stick with a favourite or discover something unexpected.

Two wines she particularly recommends are Ribolla Gialla from Vini Noüe-Marinič in Slovenia and Benanti's Etna Rosso from Sicily.

"The Ribolla Gialla has incredible texture and freshness with a savoury edge," she says. "It's wonderful with seafood, shellfish or lighter starters and is a brilliant introduction to lesser-known grape varieties."

Her second choice, Etna Rosso, comes from volcanic slopes in Sicily. "Made from Nerello Mascalese, it combines elegance, freshness and savoury complexity. I'd pair it with lamb, duck, mushrooms or other earthy dishes."

Her advice for diners is simple.

"Don't be afraid to step slightly outside your comfort zone. Some of the most exciting wines come from lesser-known regions and often become guests' favourites."

And if you're unsure? "Speak to the sommelier team. We love helping guests find the perfect wine, whether it's a favourite style or something completely new."

Claude Millée

Restaurant Manager, The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant

With around 600 references, The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant's wine list is one of Scotland's most extensive.

"It's classically driven," Claude explains, "but with some great off-the-beaten-track listings."

His own passion for Italian wines began after meeting his wife, who is from north-east Italy.

"I fell in love with Italy in more ways than one," he laughs.

His first recommendation is Derthona Timorasso 2021 from Vigneti Massa, a beautifully textured white from Piedmont that pairs perfectly with white fish and creamy sauces.

His second is the remarkable Ribolla Gialla 2015 from Josko Gravner, served from magnum.

"It's a truly exceptional skin-contact wine," he says. "Serve it lightly chilled and enjoy how it evolves as it warms in the glass."

The restaurant pairs it with its signature Lobster Toddy course, where its texture and complexity complement the richness and spice of the dish.

With such an extensive list, Claude knows choosing can feel intimidating.

"Our wine list is physically enormous—we use a luggage stand to hold it up!" he says. 

"Don't be afraid to start a conversation with our sommelier team. With just a few questions we can help you find exactly the right bottle."

Charlie Passemard

Co-owner, Bistro Coco

Charlie describes Bistro Coco's list as approachable but proudly rooted in France.

"We don't believe you need a PhD in wine to enjoy a good bottle," she says. "We love introducing guests to lesser-known gems while keeping the list easy to navigate."

Her first recommendation is Tavel Rosé.

"It's one of the world's most misunderstood wines," she says. "Forget pale, poolside rosé—this is a proper gastronomic wine."

She pairs it with Bistro Coco's Bouillabaisse Platter, where its freshness and structure match the richness of the seafood beautifully.

Her second choice is the intriguingly named Vic-Bilh Sec.

"It's a bit like Marmite," she laughs. "You'll either fall head over heels or wonder what on earth we're talking about."

Its distinctive oxidative style makes it a perfect partner for Poulet Chasseur, where the nutty notes complement the creamy Madeira sauce.

Her advice?

"Talk to us! We've tasted every bottle—purely in the interest of research, of course—and nothing makes us happier than helping someone find a wine they'll love."

Despite limited storage, Charlie admits the list is always growing.

"Every time we promise ourselves it's complete, another bottle mysteriously finds its way onto it. At this point, an intervention may be required."

The Best Discoveries Often Start With a Conversation

Although their wine lists are very different, Elizabeth, Claude and Charlie all share one belief: the best bottles aren't always the most famous.

Whether it's a Slovenian Ribolla Gialla, a volcanic Sicilian red, an age-worthy Timorasso or a gastronomic Tavel Rosé, stepping just a little beyond the familiar can lead to some memorable discoveries.

And as all three emphasise, you don't have to navigate the list alone. A quick conversation with the sommelier or restaurant team could introduce you to your next favourite wine.

Cheers! Diana Thompson runs Wine Events Scotland

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