The Tollhouse Edinburgh

The Tollhouse is perched on the Water of Letih

Sophisticated. That would be my one-word precis of The Tollhouse.

In another life, this same spot in Canonmills was one of the original entry points into the city. It’s here, along the Water of Leith, where merchants stopped to hand over their levies, before continuing on to sell their wares in the city.

I wonder what they’d have thought of the glass-fronted, modern building now standing in its place. 

The Tollhouse is one of four local restaurants from Stuart Muir – the youngest Scottish chef to be awarded a Michelin star – and business partner Paul Brennan, their other offerings being Dine in Murrayfield and Craiglockhart, and above the Traverse Theatre.

Walking in one Wednesday evening with Bite contributor Bron Eley, to me, The Tollhouse has a similar welcoming familiarity to Dine. It’s stylish but in a low-key way – dark wooden panelling and floorboards contrasting with white chandeliers and a light geometric ceiling.

It’s also local – a chance for those living nearby (like both Bron and I, incidentally) to become regulars. The fact that the team uses produce from fishmongers, grocers and butchers in the area also adds to the community feel. Perhaps the local traders in previous times would have been pleased with the support for their modern-day counterparts.

2 Courses £28.50, 3 Courses £35.50

Despite it being mid-week, the upstairs section, where we sit beside one of the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Water of Leith, is almost full. There’s also a lower level for private dining and a terrace where you may spot the odd kingfisher, heron or otter – one for earlier in the day when it’s a bit lighter.

But, we’ve spoken about everything bar the food – the team has just launched their festive party menu, which is well worth a consideration. This includes two or three courses with the option for a side order or two.

And I can confirm it is delicious. My White Onion and Parmesan Velouté with a chive scone and crispy shallots (starter), Spiced Butternut Squash Risotto with toasted pumpkin seeds (main) and Cheese Board with chutney grapes and crackers (dessert) has me rolling out of The Tollhouse but wanting more at the same time – sharing Bron’s Pomme Frites (starter) for example, or trying her Christmas Pudding (there’s always room for dessert, right?). They also do a fine dry Vodka Martini, my current go-to cocktail.

It’s the kind of cooking that makes repeat visits inevitable.

Book a table here – we suspect it can get busy so it may be best to reserve your spot.

The Tollhouse: 50 Brandon Terrace, Edinburgh EH3 5BX - 0131 224 2424

Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 12pm to 4pm (lunch), 4pm to 11pm (dinner)

By Bronwyn Eley - letters_from_neverland on Insta