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The Frugal Foodie dines Prix Fixe Under the Table
Right in the centre of Edinburgh’s New Town, Under the Table proves that neighbourhood dining can be elegant, creative and brilliantly priced, with a changing Prix Fixe menu and a wine list designed to spark conversation.
I may have just found my new favourite weekend lunch spot – and it's right at the centre of Edinburgh’s New Town.
While upstairs ‘The Table’ offers an interactive fine-dining experience for just ten people at £110-£120 per head, the atmosphere downstairs at ‘Under the Table’ is a lively neighbourhood bistro. Despite being a basement, the room is bright and elegant, oozing Georgian charm, and fully booked on a bustling Saturday lunchtime.
The restaurant takes inspiration “from the Bouchons and Osterias of France and Italy” and this is evident in the cuisine served and the highly affordable Prix Fixe menu, which provides three choices for each course, rather than just being a set selection. At 2 courses for £22 and 3 courses for £26, it’s certainly one of the most affordable lunch menus in Edinburgh’s New Town and an absolute steal for its prestigious location and creative dishes. The options change regularly, so it’s easy to see why many locals return often.
The current menu shows strong Italian influence but there is also a little of Spain and France in there. The Shellfish Salmorejo is the ultimate summer starter, elevating the traditional Spanish cold soup with mussels and shrimp rather than ham and egg, and the Panzanella Salad bursts with sweet, sharp and fresh tomatoes. The third option, the Smoked Ham Hock Terrine, is wonderfully smoky and served with a punchy Dijon mustard – even better than a similar dish we enjoyed at Chez Roux.
This first course typifies the food, as every plate is packed with flavour and no sense that the chef has scrimped, despite the bargain price. For mains, the rich Fennel Sausage Linguine is lifted by tarragon butter, while gremolata adds crunch and depth of flavour to the Three-Cheese Fondue Gnocchi. The Baked Coley with Tomato, Olives & Crispy Capers looks equally delicious.
Wine is as important as the food here, with a selection that is wide-ranging but also carefully curated. “We’re really proud of our wine list, which we like to think offers something for everyone, from a £5 glass to a £300 bottle,” Director Paul O'Donoghue explains. “There are around 35-40 wines available by the glass including dessert options, but we’re offering something a little bit different. You won’t find a Pinot Grigio or a New Zealand Sauvignon on the list, which we hope will create conversation and encourage diners to try something new.”
The Hungarian Furmint at £7.50 is a smoother variety than I have tried before and ideal with the light dishes, and on Paul’s recommendation, a creamy German Riesling is a great accompaniment to the decadent Dark Chocolate Mousse with cherry gel.
The best part: the Prix Fixe menu is available 12-2pm every day and the restaurant is open all year round.
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Under the Table - 3A1 Dundas Street, Edinburgh, EH3 6QG
Check the website for the autumn opening hours.
