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The Captain Darling
- Kirsty Wilkins
- 19 minutes ago
- 2 min read
Since moving to Edinburgh almost nine years ago, I’ve been for scant few Sunday roasts – something I thought I might have done with more regularity. So, when The Captain Darling opened just up the road from us, offering a roast on its Sunday lunch menu, I was delighted.
Opening in what was Hamilton’s (and we assume named after the Blackadder character), chef Scott Smith of Fhior fame is behind the launch of this new addition to the Stockbridge dining scene, teaming up with the Òir Group – who also own Bodega on Leith Walk (delicious, we might add) and Lucky Yu on Broughton Road. “I’ve always wanted to be involved in a pub,” Scott says. “I love being able to use the knowledge I’ve gained over the years and apply that to humble pub food, making sure it retains its comfort and familiarity while paying attention to the quality and details. When I was offered the opportunity to consult on this opening, I jumped at it.” Read our full Q&A with chef Scott Smith online here.
Walking in at lunchtime one sunny Sunday, it immediately felt welcoming. Our table was towards the back, a candle flickering on the table and water served in repurposed Lind and Lime bottles. I’m always pleased to find South African wine on the list – in this case, an Aloe Tree chenin blanc from Simonsvlei Winery in Paarl.
My Dry-Aged Sirloin Roast Beef plus all the trimmings, including roast potatoes, was, in a word, delicious. A pleasant surprise was the vivid green Tenderstem broccoli, which was cooked over coals and charred to finish, and consequently tasty to boot.
Andrew, my fiancé, tried the Porchetta, with two rounds of meat, plus crunchy crackling and – his addition – baked cauliflower cheese, Connage Gouda, Isle of Mull cheddar and mustard. His succinct summary is “simple and well worth the money”, which ties in with Scott’s aim to provide “humble, uncomplicated and comforting” food.
We should add that the service was flawless, with the waitress offering to take our photo of us after seeing me wandering about taking snaps on my phone. My Sunday roast outings are certainly going to become more regular now.
Also try, in no particular order
Sticky toffee pudding, butterscotch sauce and Mackie’s vanilla ice cream
A dry vodka martini
And on our list, too, basically anything from the main menu
Contact details
16 to 18 Hamilton Place, Edinburgh EH3 5AU 0131 563 0404
Opening hours
Monday to Sunday: 10pm to 12am
Photo credits: Alix McIntosh; Kirsty Wilkins; Andrew Parish
