Nàdair - Fringe Special and seasonal dining in leafy Marchmont

Chefs Alan Keery and Sarah Baldry have created something special at Nàdair. Even at full tilt the room feels calm, shaped by minimalist lines, earthy tones and a service style that’s both slick and soothing. The interior brings the outside in and nods to the restaurant’s name, Nàdair, meaning nature in Gaelic.

Nature is certainly in control on the night we visit when the rain is torrential, so Nàdair becomes even more haven-like. Then, fluffy focaccia bread arrives with creamy honeyed butter. Side plates and butter knives lean to a woodland theme. We feel comforted.

For the first course I choose Crab that is sweet, shore fresh and served with diced Granny Smith apple (not at all tart) and razored slices of radish, while the garnish is a pattern of perfect sorrel leaves. It is a pristine and delicious work of art. 

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For the main course, Eleanora enjoys Venison Tartare which is as rich as my crab is fresh. It is served with blaeberries provided by the restaurant’s forager. I forage for these wild fruits too and appreciate how fiddly they are. Eleanora comments on how a topping of crunchy shallots elevates the dish. Meanwhile, I eat Cod cooked to pinpoint precision and peak tenderness. It is served with a buttermilk sauce cut with dill oil. Alchemy happens when fish meets dill and a new flavour is born. It's classic for a reason. There are some crunchy brioche pieces and a nest of sea herbs for texture too.

Eleanora has another rich dish of Chanterelles — she’s tasting autumn’s earthy notes while I’m enjoying the last of the bright summer.  She thinks the mushrooms are roasted and that they could have been cooked more delicately, a small blip for her, but not one that dims her overall enjoyment of this dish that also contains pearl barley, Auld Reekie cheese and black garlic. A Japanese style milk bun is added to soak up all that luscious sauce.

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Greek Yoghurt, cherry and almond, for dessert tastes of a deconstructed, sophisticated Bakewell while Eleanora’s sweet and decadent Dark Chocolate is balanced by wild mint, crème fraîche and bramble.

There are many things I love about this menu. For a start it reads like a roster of my favourite ingredients that are also seasonal, locally sourced, and foraged. Skill is applied not just to the produce itself but to the way familiar combinations are revisited and elevated. Sweet dishes also tap straight into childhood memories: that Bakewell; the blackcurrant jam and white chocolate ganache on the petit fours, echoing jam tarts and Milky Bars. Nàdair connects on a deeper emotional level.

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This à la carte Fringe special is a rare chance to experience Nàdair’s award‑winning, nature‑driven cooking in a more accessible format n than the normal tasting menu, showcasing the creativity that has earned it acclaim from The Scotsman, Condé Nast Traveller and The Catey Awards. 

Related content: New Wave Scottish restaurants

Nàdair: 15 Roseneath Street, Marchmont, Edinburgh, EH9 1JH — 0131 6292322