La Querencia brings the spirit of Argentina to Haymarket

Transporting diners from Haymarket to Buenos Aires, La Querencia combines authentic Argentine cooking, fine wines and a lively atmosphere. Anne Pia pulls up a stool at the barra to sample Edinburgh's latest South American arrival.

Enter La Querencia, Edinburgh’s new Argentinian restaurant in the hip Haymarket area of the city and you are immediately wrapped in the warm aromas and sounds of maybe a downtown Buenos Aires restaurant or a popular food stop in Patagonia’s Bariloche…vibrant, rustic, informal…a place to relax in and kick back awhile. To savour the basic good things of life. This new arrival, sister restaurant to owner Ariadne and family’s charming Leith eatery of some repute, is Argentina at its most beguiling ...all bustle, spin and clatter. All heart.

Dalry Road becomes a place very far from here and you find yourself seated at a wooden barra in a small corner of elegant Recoleta with a glass of the finest Malbec, maybe, just around the corner from the mighty mausoleums of the city of the dead, and the resting place of Eva Perón; drinking a mate, maybe, in the bohemian streets of San Telmo…a middle-aged couple dancing very close; a hot hot tango, and the fiercely rhythmic strains of a bandoneón or Argentinian concertina in the background.

Argentina, land of wild, unrelenting landscapes, pampas, free-ranging cattle, rough-shod gauchos on horseback; the land of the asado, and ranches - a land where you can pick up a few empanadas, or a picada (a platter of charcuterie Italian-style) and a good beer for a song, is not for the faint-hearted. Nor is La Querencia. Chunky, plump and juicy beef prime cuts, Argentine Black Angus ribeye, tenderloin, sirloin, and a majestic, sizzling parrillada…a major work of carefully fired earthy artistry… take centre stage here. But while Argentinian meat is the menu’s backbone and centrepiece…non-meat-eaters are equally honoured by an interesting, varied array of starters, small plates and mains, infused with the flavours, flair and culinary legacy laid down by mainly Southern Italians and historic migration.

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Amidst the joy and glamour of tango, the live rhythms of Piazzolla, people jostling to take photos, we eventually get round to the menus. A platter of Empanadas is a very promising start. We quickly demolish all three: a caprese (fat with sweet tomatoes, mozzarella and feta); a humita, creamy and smooth, sweetcorn spiced with cinnamon and fragrant with fresh basil; and the reigning queen of the empanada world, a classic tucumana which oozes soft minced meat in a rich earthy gravy. How light, slight and flaky the pastry is - its role to balance, contain and complement. My only regret is that we do not order a platter of five.

Nothing evokes Hispanic tradition more than a blood sausage and so we ordered a Morcilla from the list of small dishes, the picoteo selection; and though the Gambas al Ajillo, the Croquetas and the crusty Provolone are strong contenders, tradition wins out and the morcilla, lighter and less demanding than any Stornoway variation, is indeed crumbly and gentle; paired with an Aubergine Steak topped with mozzarella, gloriously sizzling and hearty, both work well together.

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I am usually unfussed by a dessert; however, my friend has a sweet tooth and I am no match for her, aided by Ariadne, so I order a Flan. Freshly made that day, it is the lightest, most exquisite Crème Caramel I have eaten in a while. “Do not miss out on anything to do with dulce de leche” - customer comments advise and so we also order a Crêpe…sweet and light. We have no room even for coffee, but the smooth Mendoza Malbec which accompanies my food is memorable; as is the fiery spirit which arrives without my asking and I do not complain.

La Querencia, 90 Dalry Road, EH11 2AX - 07777671102