John’s Coffee House & Tavern in Ediburgh's historic Parliament Square

Reopened after operating since 1688

In the very centre of old Edinburgh at Parliament Square, a new suite of developments is tucked away beside the advocates’ cloisters.  Our venue, Johns Coffee House & Tavern, is a properly ancient establishment operating from 1688 this year reawakened for a new age of egalitarian enlightenment.

When we visit on a cold, dark, late November night, with Christmas lights already sparkling in the touristy area, there is a welcoming glow from deep within its astragalled windows, on the ground floor of pod hostel CODE The Court. Alongside our coffee house and tavern, The Lost Close holds complimentary events such as local gin tastings for residents of both the boutique luxury apartments above as well as the hostel, who also enjoy tavern discounts.  

All has been designed with sustainable contemporary features to provide an all day and night social hub, entertaining a buzzy mix that would have pleased the great thinkers who gathered here back in the enlightenment era, from Adam Smith and David Hume, Sir Walter Scott and fellow writer RLS, to pioneer female medic Sophia Jex-Blake.  We enjoy a Spanglish chat with our resident neighbour from Sevilla, while she awaits friends from Cádiz prior to a Highland Tour the next day.

My guest Lesley (herself a specialist Pie-oneer!) remarks on arrival that she feels humbled to think that such luminaries may have sat having highbrow debates in the very same spot.  However, despite dragging herself out to accompany me, it turns out the legacy of her recent lurgy is zero appetite, so she can’t actually tackle her normally favourite food.  But amidst reasonably priced cocktails is a soothing seasonal mulled wine which hits the mark (with a wee shortbread on the side).

Thus it’s up to me to try both the East Lothian artisan Jarvis Pickle pies (£14.50) we’ve chosen from the 5-9pm menu.  Mine is a seasonal special containing a crisply delineated and thoroughly enjoyable ‘Christmas dinner’ filling, which is utterly delicious and very far from your average mush-filled pie.  The contents of both this and Lesley’s well-seasoned and toothsome beef shin & ox cheek pie (both are award-winning) lie within super-tasty crisply browned small-batch handmade pastry shells of traditional style.  They come with simple mash, peas & gravy on the side, while the many flavour options include plant-based to suit every taste and tolerance.

Cutting the ribbon to reopen tis historic tavern

Our excellent server Lauren, who has been telling us about this historic building, describes the locally made French pastries, breads and cakes available as well as waffle options, but despite tempting me with a sticky toffee special, I demur in solidarity with my indisposed friend and opt for the Enlightened Irish Coffee.  This is delicious, made with a whisky liqueur sweetened with maple syrup rather than the hard stuff only, keeping me on the straight and narrow as well as toasty warm when we venture out well-wrapped & satisfied.

I am very inclined to return soon as, being within a hotel not only do they serve breakfast from actual breakfast time of 7am rather than mid-morning as some do, but their orange & spice Greek yoghourt concoction absolutely has my name on it.  And intriguingly a Scottish Highland Roll - the full works including Tattie Scone - sits alongside a 'Green Highland Roll' involving avocado - a morning menu underlining their commitment to please everyone.

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Johnscoffeehouse.com, 1a Parliament Square, Edinburgh EH1 1RF. 0131 510 9380

Open 7am-late; breakfast served 7-11.30am, lunch 12-3, dinner 7-9 (walk-ins only)