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Indulge in a little nostalgia at new underground dive bar, Understory
Understory brings a glossy hit of ‘five‑star dive bar’ energy to Edinburgh’s West End, reopening the former Heads & Tails site after a £100,000 transformation. Led by seasoned operators Sam Baxendale and James Grant, the moody, neon‑lit vaults now house a New York‑style cocktail bar built on nostalgia, playful drinks and a touch of decadent sleaze — from Cheeky Vimto riffs to scampi‑fries garnishes and croissant‑powered alchemy. Edinburgh can step into its Halcyon Days from 15 September.
The West End’s new ‘five-star dive bar’ Understory has opened following a major £100,000 investment to replace the former Heads & Tails.
It will be run by Sam Baxendale, an established name in Edinburgh’s bar scene, and Rutland Hotel’s head of bars, James Grant. A glance at Sam’s CV, Bramble, Monteiths, Bon Vivant, reassures that you are in good hands.
On arrival for the media launch, we are immediately handed a bright, boozy Daiquiri and directed into the moody underground venue. Despite being carved into historic vaults, as you enter the main bar itself the feeling is very much of a cool New York cocktail bar.
The décor can best be described as ‘up-market sleaze’, low lighting, neon, red panelling and plush materials promote the idea we are here to indulge. A colourful ceiling depicts the ‘understory’, the hidden layer beneath the forest canopy, but also conjures ideas of a foreboding Garden of Eden, where temptation awaits.
We don’t resist, immediately scouring the menu for our next drink. The current theme of the rotating cocktail menu is ‘Halcyon Days’, a fun concept designed to draw on British nostalgia. Immediately embracing the concept, we start with a Cheeky Vimto, which tastes remarkably like WKD blue and port but actually combines pisco, currant cordial, Dubonnet, grape and berry soda; and A Trip to the Pub, a tropical mix of Angostura, Smith & Cross, Banana, chocolate and oolong tea that actually comes in a tankard with a packet of scampi fries.
Taken back to a simpler, more youthful time, we feel confident we can enjoy multiple cocktails on a Monday night without any ill effects, and so move on to round three. Apple Pie really brings the sweet and tart dessert to mind, featuring Woven Whisky, Gifford Vanilla and Apple Pie Soda; while Marmalade Sandwich , Angostura 5yr, Nixta Corn Liqueur, Fair Kumquat, Croissant Syrup and Butter, confuses with its zesty taste yet buttery mouthfeel. We ask about the alchemy at play and are led to a locked vault which houses the bar’s on-site lab. We can’t give away all the secrets of the croissant syrup, but let’s just say a lot of pastry and a centrifuge are involved.
Delicious canapes are served throughout the night, which we learn will be part of the bar snacks and small plates menu. The Nashville Fried Chicken, Mac & Cheese Bites and Teriyaki Cauli Poppers certainly hit the spot, but the menu will also feature Steak Tartare & Caviar served with crisps, and a pairing of Chicken Tenders and Champagne, in keeping with the general frivolity.
Edinburghers can indulge in a little nostalgia from Tuesday 15th September.
Understory, 1a Rutland Street, Edinburgh
Opening hours: 4pm to 1am Sunday to Thursday, 4pm-3am Fridays and Saturdays.
