Feast like a Victorian @ The Dunstane by the Social Bitches

The Roseate

Indulging in the gorgeous, marvelously Victorian decor, and of course a rather cheeky bottle of Moet & Chandon rosé, it has to be said, The Dunstane @ The Roseate Hotel is making a fabulous first impression. Even better, Anna our gracious host is saying those words we love to hear: Have whatever you want, tonight Bitches, it’s ALL about you! 

Seated in the grand bay window of what was formerly the drawing room, we’re not only responding “DING DONG!” to the decadent vibe, we’re also quite taken by its garden view complete with glorious sunset. Though before we devour every curated morsel in sight, first, a little history … 

This stunning building was once home to William Henry Ross, a big player in the whisky industry, and benefactor of the Ross Bandstand. Then, following service to both World War II and the Royal Bank of Scotland, it was transformed into a boutique hotel.

Another cheeky bottle

Today, The Roseate's 35 rooms and restaurant are part of a small group of avant-garde resorts, but still reflect the passion of previous owners Derek & Shirley Mowat, who wanted both the design and menu to pay tribute to Orkney, where they met and fell in love.

Which is just one of the many reasons we’re now diving into the wonderfully refreshing hand-picked crab with smoked salmon, caviar, hass avocado, burnt grapefruit and brioche, paired with a saucy Albariño. 

Then it’s immediately on to a rich, rather joyful offering of duck & foie gras terrine with tarragon emulsion, charred leeks, shimeji and prunes. The presentation of these dishes is simply beautiful, the contrast of intense flavours even more so. 

Which inspires us [ fatty-boom, fatty-boom ] to go for a third entree, one of the best salads of our entire lives. Bursting with flavour, it combines heritage beetroot, candied walnuts, chicory, raspberry sponge, Riesling and compressed blackberries. Oosh!

Hand-picked crab with smoked salmon

Finally, we move to the mains, and our next bottle, a sublime Aussie Shiraz playfully named: Cunning Plan. Full-bodied and spicy, much like ourselves, it’s a perfect companion to the lush highland rack of lamb with pressed potato, buttered kale, and its surprising sauce of tomato & fenugreek, boasting notes both nutty and sweet.

Though best in the show has to be the Inverurie dry-aged sirloin of beef with lobster ravioli, Roscoff onion, morel and bone marrow jus. Beautifully tender, faultlessly prepared, and again those contrasts of flavour - smoky, creamy, delicate and robust - make for a sumptuous dish.

Which now just leaves these bitches squeezing in the stunning Passionfruit Cheesecake with pistachio sponge & lychee sorbert. As well as the most velvety dark chocolate crémeux imaginable, with hazelnut tuille, coconut gel and whisky ice cream, not to mention a “few” naughty splashes of cognac. 

The only thing better than this indulgent night ALL about us? A night of food, atmosphere and service that is truly five-star. 

The Dunstane Restaurant & Bar - The Roseate, 4 West Coates, Edinburgh EH12 5JQ - 0131 337 6169

Mon - Sun 12 pm - 10 pm [ last orders at 9:30 pm]