Bistro Eleven Fifty Five review by Cate Devine

Cate Devine finds that Finnieston’s former fine‑dining institution The Gannet has reinvented itself as Eleven Fifty Five, a warm, buzzing neighbourhood bistro where Irish roots, French classics and a new ease of service signal a bold and successful transformation.

For an established fine-dining restaurant to address the challenges currently facing the hospitality sector by almost completely reinventing itself into a neighbourhood bistro-snug surely takes a hefty dollop of courage served with the steadying hand of self-belief.

Such a daunting task seems to have worked well for chef-patron Peter McKenna and restaurant manager Kevin Dow of the former The Gannet in Glasgow’s Finnieston.

The rather rarefied atmosphere of The Gannet, which closed on New Year’s Eve after 12 years of trading to re-open as bistro Eleven Fifty Five, has morphed - at least on the Friday evening we are there - into a busy, relaxed, haunt, with all 52 covers taken across the bistro’s various and beautiful new spaces. The main dining area is already lively when we arrive at 6.15pm and by the time we leave around 8.30pm the upstairs private dining room, whisky snug, back room and bar counter are fully booked. An upbeat if

subtle soundtrack helps create a gentle buzz, and from where I am sitting I can see bar manager Adam creating non-stop house cocktails, with staff carefully carrying them aloft on trays. Maitre d’ Kevin Dow’s reception desk has gone, giving him room to circulate and network, which he does with characteristic aplomb.

More surprises are apparent in the menu. I order the Braised Lamb main, only to discover that it is in fact an Irish stew in the most delicious contemporary iteration: a bowl of potato, carrot, turnip and the softest, tastiest cuts of lamb all braised in a swooningly unctuous 'lamby' sauce (maybe gravy is a more accurate description) topped with a couple of crispy breaded sweetbreads. This is a welcome celebration of indigenous flavours expertly presented by chef-director Peter McKenna, who was born and raised in the border town of Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland, and it is the star of the show for me.

The Irish-French accent here is further emphasised by a Himalayan salt-aged Ribeye from Hannan Meats in County Down, given the most tender treatment - seared and crispy on the outside, meltingly pink inside - and simply presented with a deeply flavoursome winey Bordelaise sauce. A side of confit Pink Fir potatoes is a sturdy complement. I also liked the quiet re-introduction of classic French cuisine into chef Peter McKenna’s new menu - Roast Sardines on the bone come with a Café de Paris butter, there is a Beef Cheek Bourguignon main, a Leek Vinaigrette starter, a house cocktail called French 1155 - maybe because it’s sadly becoming quite rare.

Other interesting new dishes included a chilled Celeriac Carpaccio starter of crunchy layered celery root in an aniseed-infused miso cream, topped with crisp and raw shallots. And a pretty-on-the-plate tartare of Beef Barrel Fillet, served with a caramelised bone marrow complete with dinky spoon for scooping onto sourdough crisps, is elegantly accomplished.

Kevin Dow

I can’t not mention the glazed house Japanese milk bread rolls, served hot from the oven with house butter on a wooden platter with rustic wooden knife - fluffy, light, sweet and with a salty soy crust - or the chilled glass of zesty Gusbourne Brut Reserve that together make for stimulating pre-starters. The fish of the day, served whole on the bone, is a John Dory served with wild garlic, green peppercorns and caper sauce, and a Mòr Atlantic Sea Trout from Loch Melfort with crab butter orzo, were some of the dishes I’d go back for.

I may have written this review out of chronological order menu-wise but, in the spirit of this new neighbourhood bistro, I reckon you could walk in and order like this.

Since my visit, Eleven Fifty Five has launched a two-course set menu offer at £25 from 5pm to 7.30pm Monday to Wednesday and 12-2.30pm or 5pm to 7.30pm on Thursday until Easter.

An exercise in change and transformation that’s surely worthy of a James Joyce novel has taken place on the funky Finnieston strip.

Bistro Eleven Fifty Five, 1155 Argyle Street, Glasgow G3 8TB - 0141-204 2081 bistroelevenfiftyfive.com

Open Monday-Saturday from 5pm, Thursday-Saturday 12noon-2.30pm.

Monday - Saturday From 5pm, Thursday - Saturday 12 noon - 2.30pm, Monday - Saturday From 5pm

Thursday - Saturday 12 noon - 2.30pm

Cate Devine is an award winning food journalist