One of the most rewarding ways to visit a grand city like London, Naples or Athens I’ve found, is to slip into the side streets of a neighbourhood; to leave the glitz and polish and wander with eyes wide open. It is through the unclothed and unpresented that we discover a city’s heart and soul: ways of life different from our own; local people going about their business. And the greatest joy, of course, is to unearth places where they choose to eat, drink and meet friends.  It is in such a residential area as this, in Edinburgh, with a few shops scattered about, a corner shop and antique dealer,  and a stone’s throw from Wardie Bay where you can watch sunsets or have a cold dip, that Will Blamire and Anne Quintin have set up La Cime . Delicious scones with, on one happy occasion, rhubarb and ginger homemade preserve, frittatas, brioches and other treats, along with excellent coffee are all on offer here and among the best, if not the best in town.  These warm, welcoming hosts have long experience in preparing food and service and it shows. Will is a formidable wine expert, Anne is a redoubtable cook and baker; and there is a strong sense in this neuk, of contemporary charm, of a careful eye on detail and pride in what is on the table and on shelves tastefully stacked with wines, terracotta, preserves, tins of the finest anchovies, bottles of organic olive oils, food books to browse, together with old school memorabilia. And it is in these considered choices, particularly in what you might find in a kitchen or pantry in the glorious La Lozère, Anne’s place of origin, that tells the story of what is happening in the kitchen.  La Cime, a bijou local restaurant and wine venue, intimate and warm, serves dishes based on  cuisine et tradition from the wonderful Occitane, renowned for its too many to mention cheeses (Roquefort-sur-Soulzon isn’t far), particularly blue, its long slow-cooked stews, hearty soups, bean and lentil casseroles; farmhouse ovens redolent with aromas of clafoutis,  round, fat jars of   local preserves; of staggeringly beautiful  gorges and  causses  and   where  les brebis, thrive on abundant rich grasses. Here, food from such rich terrain is always fresh. Anne’s food is worked with that characteristic care and skill of her heritage and presented with the pride of people who know and value quality and authenticity.  Friday and Saturday dinner menus are always an enticing read, showcasing produce that is fresh and local. A recent menu included rabbit rillettes and cornichon; slow-cooked, rolled pork belly with cannellini beans and apple sauce bringing with it aromas of the Auvergne; cod and potato brandade, typically from the rugged villages and plains of the Massif Central; elegant tartes, thin - layered with soft potato, fourme , a tangy blue cheese, crusted with smoked hazelnuts; fresh scallops cooked in a fragrant sauce of sweet cherry tomatoes with spiced harissa; potato and ricotta gnocchi in a rich ragù, with mozzarella, a nod to perhaps, Provence; piccante olives and homemade soup, a veritable potage, offered a delectable introduction. And the nougat glacé with a raspberry coulis and toasted nuts, more like a meringue in texture but holding its shape, its lightness and fruity freshness, rather than over-sweetness, was a perfect ending to a very recent meal enjoyed there. Although the basque cheesecake and the cheese plate with date and apple chutney in such expert hands, I’m sure would have been equally good. There is an excellent wine list but I can never go past an excellent Côtes du Rhône, especially from Maison Guigal. And espressos to finish here come sturdy. Just as they should be! La Cime: 210b Newhaven Road, Newhaven, Edinburgh, EH6 4QE Open Thursday to Monday 8.30 am - 4.30 pm including dinner, bites and drinks on Friday and Saturday evenings 9.30 am - 8 pm.