Wahaca – A Taste of an Oaxacan Summer – Street Food with a Sassy Soul.

Wahaca turns up the heat this season with a sunshine‑soaked line‑up of seasonal specials, vibrant veg‑forward plates and spritz‑bright cocktails inspired by the colour and energy of Mexico. Lea Harris, finally stepping across the threshold after years of admiringThomasina Miers, visited the Edinburgh branch with her hubby to put the new summer menu through its paces.

I have watched Thomasina Miers many times on MasterChef, but I'm ashamed to say, I never stepped across Wahaca’s threshold. As Mr B and I bustle ourselves through the door of the Edinburgh branch, we’re greeted with a huge smile from a server whose colourful attire rivals Mr B’s. Upstairs, the vibe is

electric, dominated by vibrant street art murals by Max Rippon, that perfectly match Wahaca’s street food philosophy.

The staff are sassy, sharp, and proactive about allergies. Take note: if you have that unfortunate gene that makes coriander taste like soap, warn them—it’s everywhere, much to Mr B’s chagrin but my delight.

We order two of the summer specials, Crispy Potato Esquites and Hibiscus Glazed Wings to have with our drinks while we scan and devour the menu. Himself goes for a wittily named British brewed, Mexican inspired lager, Sir Veza while I’m intrigued by the Basil Mezcalita; it arrives in an innocent looking

terracotta beaker but don’t be fooled, this baby packs a smoky Quiquiriqui Matatlan mezcal punch.

We order several small plates along with a couple of mains, arriving as and when ready; first up are the wings, spiky, messy morsels with sweet overtones from the hibiscus glaze – these are lip-smacking, finger-licking gold. The Frijoles Crema – a black bean puree with crumbled cheese and sour cream, is savoury and unctuous though it desperately cries out for nachos to scoop it up.

Having barely finished the wings, we make room for the Crispy Potato Esquites – Jersey Royals with a Latino makeover of charred sweetcorn salad dressed with a zesty, nippy jalapeño mayo. It’s a fab change from plain boiled spuds, though they could have been a tad crunchier.

This dish, in my very humble opinion, is the star of the evening - Chipotle Glazed Aubergine - well-charred almost black, gorgeously smoky with hints of aniseed atop of a macadamia nut mole that, like tahini, perfectly elevates the aubergine. Spicing is spot on.

If we had known better, we would have forgone the Slow-Cooked Beef Burrito. It is your typical stuffed tortilla albeit with well flavoured meat and the usual suspects of black beans, rice, cheese and salsa. On the other hand, the Sweet Potato Sunshine Bowl boasts over 30 plants (a mix of avocado, quinoa, black

beans, baby spinach, cherry tomatoes, corn and bean salsa) and packed with that marmite herb, coriander, all tied together with a gloriously moreish agave and chipotle dressing. I love it but got a wrinkled-up nose from him.

Puds are on the short side, but my ‘dessert tum’ insisted that it be fed the Chocolate and Pecan Cake. Served warm, with ancho sugar scattered across the plate like sweet glitter, it delivers a smoky chilli warmth balanced by a whisper of cinnamon and nutty crunchiness. Oh, and it comes with lashings-and-

lashings of cream.

What I love about Wahaca is the attention to detail, the authenticity of the dishes and the spices that capture the essence of Mexico. If you go, head for the small plates, the tacos, the entradas and the specials. Oh, and don’t forget, the cocktails might look virtuous but looks can be delightfully deceiving.

Related content: Mexican | Bite Magazine

Wahaca - 16 S St Andrew St. Edinburgh, EH2 2AU - Tel: 0131 564 3850

Mon – Wed, Sun: 12-9pm, Thurs – Sat 12-10pm