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Elizabeth Bowman

Reach for Roussillon! 

Rose Murray Brown brings us this event in the delightful Riddle’s Court venue, celebrating the delicious and exceptionally varied wines of this often-overlooked but extremely dynamic region, with a special nod to wines selected for a ‘Coup de Coeur’ (here meaning ‘love at first taste’!). 


After a warm welcome, I’m greeted with maps demonstrating the plethora of mixed terroir there to play with, and also reaffirming ‘Roussillon est lá’ - pointing downwards to the inland valleys, foothills & cliffsides by the extreme SW corner of France’s Mediterranean shore - roughly the Pyrenees-Orientales area stretching from seaside to hilly Spanish borderland.  Everywhere there are reminders to ‘Reach for Roussillon’ as a positive choice.


With me, they’re preaching to the converted, as this ‘North Catalan’ area has it all.  Not only can they take advantage of any of their seven winds and scenic, impressive hillside elevations when choosing from which plots to craft very individual wines; but there are famously many routes to market in terms of choice of both appellations & varietals.


Domaine Sol Payré - Tatiana Rodriguez

Far from the only show in town, but still closest to the heart of Roussillon, is Grenache, in all its guises. 


My favourite, Grenache Gris, is showing strongly in the selections today from producers full of pride and passion for their products.  There’s a minerality or, if you prefer, a savoury salinity balancing the wines here, rather than a mouth-puckering acidity as can apply farther North.  A frond of fennel flavour in some whites, while many reds are big on liquorice or lightly seasoned with peppery Syrah.  Even Chardonnay comes to this southern party - showing some variation more suited to the climate, but guarding much of its restrained elegance.  Although the production of lush local fortified wines is proportionately less now, I’m glad they are still as good as ever, from dark chocolate & raspberry’s best friend Maury to the many shades & styles of Rivesaltes.


There is finesse and delicacy of winemaking aplenty, albeit very few shrinking violets - overall the freshness achieved from this hot region attests to local expertise.  A splash of Vermentino seems to lend a surefire lift.  At the presentation with Eric Aracil, I'm especially pleased to find lightness also in an orange wine from Ch. de l’Ou (‘egg’ in Catalan, referencing the fermenting vessel), keeping clear of the palate-tiring excesses of some of its ilk, while retaining its individuality.


Distributors Alliance, Hallgarten & Hatch Mansfield, along with de Burgh, who hold wines from Maison Bruno Andreu, represent many recognised growers direct, while several excellent independents still seek distribution, such as Domaine La Part des Anges; Jonquères d’Oriola (with Franco-Scottish heritage) at Chateau de Corneilla; Chateau Planères; and Domaine Sol Payré - where Tatiana Rodriguez runs a winery restaurant well worthy of a visit!





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