POV: The perfect Edinburgh pub doesn’t exist

Beer garden

The Cumberland Bar, a traditional, wood-panelled Victorian pub, is well-established as a favourite with both Edinburgh locals and tourists, thanks in part to its beautiful New Town location and the rare feature of a beer garden. As an unequivocal claim to fame, it’s even referred to in Alexander McCall Smith's 44 Scotland Street novels.

The bar is also well-known for its beer. The owners have no tie to any single brewery or buying group, and this is apparent when surveying the line of beer taps available (at least eight), ranging from established ale producers like Stewarts to newer craft breweries like Leith’s Campervan. The spirits selection is also excellent, with a leaning towards local businesses. Indeed, the house gin and rum couldn’t be more local as it is made in the basement of the pub, which is also home to Sipantics Gin and Rum School.

Chicken Milanese with Spaghetti Napoli

Last but not least, the food, which is what we are here to sample on a warm, rainy evening in July. The venue focuses on sourcing fresh, locally produced, and organic ingredients, which is evident in the quality of the dishes. The menu has been updated recently to add sharing plates, particularly popular with beer garden patrons. These are just £6.45 each or 3 for £16.95, so we choose two as starters. The Mozzarella Sticks are oozingly satisfying with a flavourful tomato & basil sauce, but it is the Salt & Pepper Chilli squid that really impresses, with tender meat and a super light batter.

For mains we choose the Chicken Milanese with Spaghetti Napoli (£14.95) and the Cajun Chicken Burger (£13.95), though all the usual pub classics are available. The quality and texture of the meat is excellent, and my schnitzel-style coating is deliciously crisp and crunchy. Somewhat unusually for pub grub, we both felt the dishes were slightly under-seasoned and extra salt is needed, perhaps reflecting a healthier approach than the norm. To counteract this healthiness, we finished with a rich and sweet Sticky Toffee Pudding (£6.45), which required no augmentation.

Whether you’re sipping spritzes and sharing small plates in the sunshine, or sheltering from the cold and rain with a pie and a pint of real ale, this great value New Town Institution has you covered.

The Cumberland Bar: 1-3 Cumberland Street, Edinburgh, EH3 6RT - 0131 558 3134

enquiries@cumberlandbar.co.uk

Opening Hours: Bar: Monday to Thursday, 12 noon - 11pm, Friday to Sunday, 12 Noon - 12pm

Kitchen: Monday to Saturday, 12 Noon- 9pm, Sunday, 12 Noon - 7pm