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‘Estate to plate’ dining at the Old Manse of Blair
- Diana Turner
- Jul 20
- 2 min read
The Old Manse of Blair is a five-star boutique hotel and Michelin-recommended restaurant in a stunning rural setting for complete tranquillity and relaxation. We stay in one of the walled garden rooms, which are a short walk from the main house and provide an option for those wanting to stay closer to nature, with each room offering a distinctive stylish and modern design, and a private patio. Despite the lavishness of the hotel, the owners have been successful in their aim to create an informal environment that doesn’t feel stuffy.
The owner Anne explains that they have an ‘estate to plate’ ethos, keeping everything as homemade and local as possible, including Wasted Degrees beer, a wide variety of local gins and whiskies, Isle of Skye Scallops, Isle of Skye sea salt, Isle of Skye Smoked Trout, Aberdeen Angus Beef, North Sea Cod, and local meat and eggs for breakfast. The Executive Head Chef is Scott Davies, formerly of The Three Chimneys on Skye, who has developed quite a following throughout his career and made the Old Manse of Blair a foodie destination in its own right.
And the food really is sensational. We start with a Duck Liver Parfait with beer pickled fennel and puffed barley, Wasted Degrees Amber & Rye Seeded Sourdough, and Heather Smoked & Oak Smoked Skye Sea Salt. We feel like we have already tasted the very best the land has to offer and are salivating for what follows. Which is perfectly-cooked Isle of Skye Scallops with a light and delicious accompaniment of roe parfait, trout caviar, radish, apple and dashi butter sauce.
We have barely finished praising the starter when our mains arrive. Tender North Sea Cod for me with a striking combination of courgette and basil puree, jalapeno fume, dill oil and dressed crab. He chooses the Dry Aged Aberdeen Angus Beef and is effusive in his admiration of the dish, which also includes confit short rib, wilted lettuce, aubergine & miso, and elderberry sauce. The desserts are light and seasonal: Heather Honey Cream with yogurt mousse, brambles and bee pollen for him, and Scottish Strawberries with elderflower panna cotta, double milk ice cream and mint jelly for me; followed by after-dinner drinks by the roaring fire.
Following a restful night and sunny cuppa on the patio, breakfast is in keeping with the high standards of dinner. We relish Seeded Overnight Muesli, a Full Scottish featuring local meats, haggis, black pudding and eggs, and Ise of Skye Alder Cold Smoked Trout with scrambled eggs. Through the window we watch one of the chefs shucking the evening’s scallops in the garden and wish we were staying another night.
The old Manse of Blair: Blair Atholl, Highland Perthshire, PH18 5TN - 01796 48 33 44
