Chef Elliot Hill joins The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse

Stepping into The Spence feels like rediscovering the quiet thrill of eating out — where a historic room, confident cooking and Elliot Hill’s produce‑led touch turn a simple dinner into something genuinely special.

From the opening pages of Jeremy King’s Without Reservation, I’m struck by how precisely he captures the often overlooked pleasures of eating out — the way restaurants create space for real conversation in a life increasingly dominated by screens, and the visceral thrill of stepping into a room that hums with promise.

The observations resonate sharply as I begin the book fresh from a visit to The Spence, the brasserie inside Gleneagles Townhouse, set within a former Victorian banking hall on St Andrew Square in the heart of Edinburgh.

For once, the lavishly decorated entrance feels perfectly in tune with what lies beyond. The grand cornicing, the cupola and the island bar honour the building’s 200‑year history as a bank, while soft table lamps and comfortable fabric seating bring a warmth that suits the polished brasserie setting. It’s an inviting backdrop for classic cooking executed with confidence.

That sense of promise feels particularly well‑timed, as Gleneagles Townhouse has just welcomed a new Executive Chef, Elliot Hill, previously of The Chester Grosvenor, where he elevated Arkle to three AA Rosettes within six months and earned recognition from the Michelin Guide. His produce‑led approach now shapes the menus across the hotel and private members’ club, including The Spence.

We settle into a corner banquette and begin with “nibbles”: exquisite mutton croquettes, meat bursting from their crisp shells, and a zesty whipped artichoke dip I instantly want to recreate at home. Seeded flatbreads allow the vegetable to shine. Drawn by Hill’s respect for vegetables, I choose the Heritage Beetroot with linseed crispbread, horseradish and Katy Rodger’s yogurt — fruity, earthy and beautifully balanced for a starter, while Kate opts for the Haggis Fritter, a puck of offal in a moat of parsley sauce, topped with quail egg and pickled mushrooms. She loves the flavour and execution. 

By now we’re fully immersed in the rhythm of the room — the food, the chat, the friendly service. For mains, Kate has Pork Tenderloin with Stornoway black pudding, cheek, apple, cabbage and mustard; I choose Halibut Cullen Skink, a refined take on the Scottish classic, with wonderfully shredded cabbage as a side. Top marks for heated plates too.

A showstopping Baked Alaska

We are too full for the Heather Honey Baked Alaska to share, but I rise to the occasion, and finish with a new addition to the menu: a light, fiery Ginger Cake with caramelised apples, Calvados cream and cookie‑dough ice cream — and I am glad I have that extra tummy reserved exclusively for puddings.

Hill is fully attuned to Scotland’s natural abundance, which he cooks with a brasserie boldness that makes eating out feel exciting and special.

In a city surrounded by exceptional producers, The Spence feels like a fitting showcase — a place where Scottish ingredients, lively cooking and the pleasure of dining out come together.

The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse - 39 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2AD - 0131 322 3780

Opening hours: 7am–9:30pm (Mon–Wed), 7am–10pm (Thu–Fri), 8am–10pm (Sat), 8am–9:30pm (Sun)