Little Capo - bambino boss in the New Town

Warm vibes

The latest venture from Stuart McCluskey, Little Capo is a pint-sized Italian eatery with a big personality. Known for shaping Edinburgh’s dining scene through the Bon Vivant group, which he founded in 2008 and later departed, McCluskey has since turned his attention to fresh, post-pandemic ventures, such as Paz Taqueria. Now, he brings his signature flair to this charming new kid on the block.

Tucked into Edinburgh’s New Town, Little Capo leans more toward an osteria than a ristorante—a distinction my Italian friend Eleonora is quick to make. “Osterie are more rustic,” she says, “more casual and earthy.” That ethos is evident from the moment you arrive.

The exterior features a bold terracotta colour, complemented by hand-painted signage that adds a playful touch. The name itself—Little Capo, or “Little Boss”—sets the tone for what’s inside: a modern, Italian-inspired bar and eatery that’s as relaxed as it is stylish.

Inside, the bar is designed for both sipping and snacking, and it’s buzzing with energy when Eleonora and I arrive. The hip, effortlessly cool staff greet us warmly, taking our coats and bags so we can settle in. We do just that, Negroni Sbagliato Bianco in hand, ready to see what this little boss has in store.

The menu offers a tempting selection of small plates, mains, and desserts, and we opt to mix and match. Soon, our table fills with creamy burrata paired with citrus and fennel, warm focaccia, and dusted tempura zucchini served with a generous dollop of aioli.

True to the Italian way, the unadulterated flavours of the ingredients shine in every dish. When our shared main arrives, polenta with white beans, mange tout and tomatoes, every texture is precise too. Beans are slow-cooked to a comforting, digestible softness, while peas are al dente. Eleonora points out that what we are eating is Gnocchi alla Romana, rather than polenta; golden, cheesy shapes baked to a crisp top and a soft, creamy interior and made with semolina rather than corn. But Little Capo is “Italianish” in vibe and has the swagger to deviate.

An impeccable Tiramisu is big enough for two. Once more, the flavours take centre stage; from the generous cocoa to the luscious mascarpone and savoiardi or ‘ladyfinger’ biscuits. Even the glass of grappa has a voluptuous mouthfeel.

If you’re after a place to eat and drink that oozes streetwise luxe, Little Capo fits the bill. I can’t help but wonder what the maestro McCluskey will conjure up next.

Little Capo - 18 Howe Street, EH3 6TG

Kitchen 12-3 pm; 4.30 pm-9.30 pm, 12 - late 7 days.