The Three Chimneys: a fresh start for renowned island eatery

Cobost, Skye

A long-term feature on the culinary wishlist, on a recent visit to Skye, my partner and I finally made it to The Three Chimneys, keen to see if this destination dining venue can live up to the hype (spoiler alert: it does).

On arrival, the vibes are cosy and welcoming, in keeping with the traditional cottage exterior (this place is nearly as old as I am after all). We are running late due to a combination of island-related factors – slow campervans, confused tourists, livestock in the road – but are assured on arrival that “time runs differently on Skye”. We happily adjust to island time and need little encouragement to indulge in an aperitif. We choose, from the list of locally inspired cocktails, a Rhubarb & Sweet Cicely Fizz with Raasay Gin and a Penicillin featuring Talisker Storm whisky – both are delicious, well-balanced, and warm us up nicely for what is to come.

First up is the ‘Snack’, a staple of the tasting menu and usually the single best mouthful of the entire meal – this one features trout pastrami and Talisker and is bursting with bright flavours – an impactful and promising start. However, it is the first course of the five that assures us we are in the best of hands. An unassuming list of ingredients – Asparagus, Jersey Royals and Potted Butter – yet it is the touch of cayenne that makes the dish sing, matched perfectly with a Kent Chardonnay. Our server explains that the chef is passionate about using high-quality, seasonal produce that is not overcomplicated, and he has certainly brought out the best in these simple veggies.

The chef in question is Paul Green, who left his life in Edinburgh in January to return to the restaurant where his career started 20 years ago. Since then, his CV has become particularly impressive, having worked across Europe and New York at two and three Michelin star restaurants, and we can sense that wealth of knowledge in his menu.

Course two is a combination of two dishes, as interestingly, this is where the bread course comes in; however, once we taste the bisque with the Lobster Ravioli, we can see why the bread is needed. The provenance of each dish is stated on the menu, and this Dunvegan lobster couldn’t be more local. The warm rolls are made with black garlic, onion and oregano and are sweet and indulgent. Thankfully, the wine pairing is a slightly smoky white wine from Santorini that cuts through the rich flavours beautifully.

Destination dining not to be missed

After a short but welcome break, the third course is a perfectly-cooked Sconser Scallop in a sticky ginger, orange, and Raasay whisky sauce, a zesty combination very different from the previous course, paired with a complex Spanish Chardonnay/Gewurtztraminer blend that enhances the floral notes of the dish. The fourth and main course is Hogget (a sheep between 1 and 2 years old, we learn) served with more wild garlic, potato fondant and haggis, a hearty plate that is brought to new levels with the accompaniment of a rich Georgian red wine.

Not someone with a hugely sweet tooth, even I am excited for the dessert – a Choux Bun filled with local strawberries and vanilla cheesecake – and it is every bit as good as it sounds. Once again, the pairing is bang on, an exquisitely light Italian Moscato that in no way overwhelms the delicate flavours. Our meal has lasted a surprising three hours, so with a taxi to wait for, we are escorted to the lounge in the hotel to enjoy a dram.

This is truly a special dining experience and a taste of the abundance enjoyed on the island that I would come back to this corner of Skye for in a heartbeat. The food certainly could not be faulted – it is easy to see why the restaurant earned the ‘Restaurant of the Year’ title at the ‘National Hotels of the Year Scotland Awards’ 2025 – and our only criticism was some slightly odd pacing between the courses, which was amply made up for by the easy friendliness of the service.

The five-course menu at £120 is well worth treating yourself to, but if you don’t fancy splashing out that much, they also serve lunch from their fixed-price a la carte menu at £60 for two courses or £75 for three courses.

The Three Chimneys and The House Over-By, Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye, IV55 8ZT - +44 (0)1470 511258

Paul Green is at the helm