Gloagburn - Recipes From A Scottish Farm by Alison Niven

Recipes from the cafe next to Gloagburn Farm

There are no shortage of recipes out there – our social feeds are full of them on a daily basis, from every cuisine and culture imaginable. New cookery books pop up at what feels like a relentless pace at times. It can sometimes feel overwhelming. 

Through this column, we try to spotlight some books closer to home, produced by cooks and writers living and working in Scotland. To show the talent we have right here. To support them and their businesses. To encourage a conversation around Scottish food, drink, hospitality and tourism. 

This month’s book is a perfect example of that and it was genuinely exciting to get my hands on a copy. 

If you’ve been to Gloagburn, you’ll know why. Walk in the door and you’re greeted with a bright and enticing food hall, packed with the most gorgeous array of food and drink from small suppliers and their own farm and homemade products in the deli and butchery counters. For food lovers, it’s an absolute dream (as is the lovely gift shop alongside).

And then there’s the restaurant. Always bustling, always busy. Something for everyone here, whether that be a tasty breakfast a light bite for lunch (don’t miss the twice-baked Isle of Mull cheddar souffle – more on that later) or tea and homemade cake in the afternoon.  Or, for something different, there are the  famous Steak Nights – just six per year – where guests can tuck into Gloagburn- reared steak, a choice of puddings or cheese, rounded off with tea, coffee and fudge (oh, yes please).

You feel at home here. Welcomed.  You can tell that this is more than just a shop or café. It’s a family farming business that goes back generations.

Read Fiona's review of The Scot's Kitchen

It’s perhaps no surprise that Alison Niven, owner, was motivated to write a book that told the story of the farm and share some of those (now not so secret) popular recipes from the café such as sausage rolls, Orkney Fudge cheesecake, fruit scones and, yes, that souffle. Many of the recipes have been passed down through the family over decades, and others have emerged over the years and in response to customer demand and tastes. She says that publishing the book is a dream come true. 

But whether you’re already a fan of Gloagburn, or are new to their world, this a book that’s bound to take a special place in your kitchen. As Alison explains in her introduction, she’s all about homemade, seasonal, traditional food, made from scratch, to be enjoyed with others around the table. It’s how she grew up, in a farming family herself, then marrying into the Niven family who arrived at Gloagburn in the early 1920s, becoming one of Scotland’s foremost Aberdeen Angus cattle breeders. Her husband Ian continues the farming legacy of his father and grandfather and, whilst Alison had always hankered after a café (her first dream come true), as is so often the case, it was necessity that made it a reality in 2003, to generate more income and ensure the future viability of the farm. 

There’s so much to enjoy in the pages, with recipes to suit all abilities and styles. We all know that farmers need a good breakfast to set them up for the day, so the book naturally starts with tasty morning fare including their pecan and cranberry granola -a  firm favourite on the café menu – smoked haddock kedgeree and herb & potato pancakes with smoked salmon.

For those of you who grew up with traditional Scottish baking, you’ll love the Tea-Time Treats chapter, with everything from empire biscuits and pancakes to tray bakes and girdle scones.

There’s a wonderful section that tells the story of their very own Gloagburn Beef, and the care that goes into producing it, with comforting recipes such as Beef and Stout Stew and Steak Sandwich with Chimichurri Sauce.

I love the double-page spread written by Alison’s son, Crawford, who studied mechanical engineering but decided to stay working on the farm after graduating when the pandemic hit. His words reassure us that the future of family farming in safe hands – and apparently a good few of his pals are after his job!

Alison has somewhat reluctantly, she tells me, been thrown into the spotlight with the book, in demand at signings and events. It’s a real talking point with customers, too. But she is rightly very proud of what she’s written. It’s something she wants to share. It’s a tribute to her family farming heritage, to everyone who works to make Gloagburn so special and, of course, all who shop, eat and buy local. Amen to that.

Published by Kitchen Press, the book is available directly from Gloagburn www.gloagburn.co.uk and all good bookshops.

Fiona Richmond is Head of Regional Food, Scotland Food & Drink