There are quite a few pop-ups around the city at this time of year; some are good, others meh! But I have to say that we are seriously impressed with Ged Warrack’s first venture into a sit-down meal (you will also find him serving his homemade, overstuffed subs down along Leith Walk at Satyr’s). The menu isn’t fine dining but some elements could be; more of that later.
Origin Coffee Roasters have taken up residence in what was Brew Lab on South College Street, and have made a Scandi bright and airy interior with hints of former student chic. During the festival, they have teamed up with the Electric Spirit Company which has a Negroni Bar on site through the whole of August from 18.00 to 23.00.
Now for the food. Sitting at the communal table, we are served a couple of Negronis – a classic, and a coffee rendition, along with bowls of Wasabi Pea Popcorn. I’m not a great fan of this drink, it’s a little bitter for my taste, but admit that the caffeine-fuelled one is great, working well with the slightly sweet, slightly spiky snack. There is a definite hint of brown butter over the popped kernels, which imparts a welcome richness.
Next (and our favourite dish of the evening) is the 1000 Layered Potato with Soy Cured Egg Yolk, Chilli Crisp and Chives. This is a very grown-up adaptation of ‘egg and chips’. The layers of spud crisp on the outside, yielding inside; the yolk is a ball of sticky lushness with a fiery spike of heat from the chilli. It
would make a banging brunch dish with the coffee negroni.
Karrage Chicken with Miso Mayo, Cabbage and Pickled Ginger is served in a dainty bowl. Tender nuggets of chicken that have been marinaded in soy, mirin, and ginger, tossed in flour then deep fried not once, but twice, making for a crispy crunch revealing juicy flesh. The miso mayo, as you’d expect, adds an umami splash, while the ginger inserts a frisson of heat.
What I like about Ged’s cooking is it appears simple but in fact is well crafted.
Take, for instance, the next dish – Tonkatsu Sando. What looks like a humble sarnie is in fact a gorgeous Japanese Hokkaido milk bread sandwich stuffed with pork (treated in the same way as the chicken). Think Schnitzel but with a panko crust slathered in a sweetish, smoky sauce. I like the honesty of his food,
it’s satisfyingly filling.
Once again, the bread takes centre stage with dessert (when does a pudding become dessert and vice-versa ‘cos, to me, this is a pudding) – Milk Bread French Toast with Yuzu Caramel, Crushed Meringue and Coffee Soft Serve. Cooked in a casserole, this is more like a bread-and-butter pudding. I loved the
yuzu caramel, the citrus zings happily away, but needs more as it’s delish. You’d think with the addition of meringue, along with the caramel and the soft serve, it would all be a bit cloying, but the balance of sweetness is perfect, I’d just like a bit more of a coffee punch in the ice cream.
For an ex-hairdresser who makes filled subs for a living, this guy has got a real talent for some extraordinary food; everything he makes from scratch, and with passion.
Ged is only cooking at Origin until the 11th of August, there are two sittings, 6-8 pm and 9-11 pm. You can try to book a spot online at Eventbrite but it may be sold out so you may want to try Chef Archie Herbert's Korean-inspired three-course menu.
Sando at Origin Coffee Roasters - 6-8 South College Street, EH8 9AA
Comments