Once again enjoying pleasures of the flesh @ Kyloe

Derek and Isaac aka The Social Bitches

With a third glass of Crémant de Loire in hand, and a lush stack of braised ox cheek croquettes - plus a café de Paris sauce - fast disappearing, we’re thrilled to be back at Kyloe. Its sumptuous, yet playful decor, touches of carnivorous theatre, and of course legendary Angus beef is a party these Bitches find impossible to resist.

Our first visit was an unbelievable fourteen years ago, and since then we’ve indulged in intimate dinners, raucous celebrations, and perhaps the most drunken Sunday roast of our entire lives. But the question is: after all this time, and with so much competition now on the beef front, has this forerunner of gourmet steak stood the test of time?

Well … the short answer is: Abso-f**king lutely! 

The food - if one’s Braised venison haunch & haggis pithivier, with its red cabbage, gorgeous juniper jus and heavenly puff pastry is anything to go by - is as delicious, and as nuanced as ever. Meanwhile, our other starter, the Beetroot Wester Ross salmon gravlax with caviar, pickled cucumber & horseradish emulsion is just as delightful.

Wagyu

Fresh and inventive flavours, vibrant combinations, and generous portions we’re happy to say. We’re also awarding ten points for seasoning par excellence. All of which adds to the excitement, as we ready ourselves for those unbridled pleasures of the flesh, paired with all that gourmet steak-theatre we’ve come to love.

Not only has our handsome waiter rocked up with his board of beef, in order to explain provenance, sinew and flavour, he soon returns with a second board offering a choice of knives. Scottish, French, or perhaps German, he enquires. Loving the optics, we of course go for the meat cleavers and, while we think of it, a saucy bottle of red thanks.

Soon we’re very much enjoying the superbly tender, highly marbled, and of course, buttery experience that is a Wagyu Steak. F2 we’re told, which is 75% Japanese, 25% Black Angus. Whatever the numbers, it’s faultlessly prepared, and along with Kyloe’s lush red wine & blue cheese sauce delivers absolute joy with each bite.

Pithivier

Reaching the same legendary standard are the sides: Maple roasted carrots, suitably sinful Wagyu brisket mac & cheese, and the Corn brûlée, which sees corned cream given a sugar crust, and torched at the table. Not everyone’s jam we suspect, but it has us acting like crack whores, and inspired to also squeeze in a bowl of beef-dripping chips.

We finish with the wonderfully rich Smoked chocolate mousse with sponge, biscuit & caramel sauce, as well as a sublime Apple & blueberry meringue with gingerbread crumble, not to mention one last cheeky bottle of Crémant. All of which leads us to the inevitable conclusion:

Fourteen years in, Kyloe is just as fabulous as ever. Ding Dong!

Kyloe - 1 - 3 Rutland Street, Edinburgh EH1 2AE - 0131 229 3402

Mon-Sat 12 pm - 10 pm, Sun 12:30 pm - 10 pm