Circa our third saucy bottle of Vinho Verde, we’ve been struck by two undeniable truths. First, we’re already deeply in love with Under the Table’s Scottish fare / Mediterranean influence. And second, how fabulous would it be to literally devour the entire menu? So, in the spirit of one’s fatty-boom reputation, we say: Let gluttony be thy guide …
But this voracious tale begins many hours earlier [ when it was still lunchtime ] with these impeccably dressed bitches being shown to the best table. Instantly, we’re wowed by the elegant decor and lively atmosphere, but even more impressive is the Prix Fixe - an exceptional three courses for just £24. Ooosh!
Soon, we’re investing the savings into Portuguese wine, as we “nibble” on Company Bakery bread with whipped butter & sea salt. We’re also embarking upon ding-ding round one: lush Parma Ham with a gorgeous mango & chilli salsa; followed by Salmon Carpaccio boasting a tantalising mix of Japanese citrus and soy.
Making sure these nuanced flavours are paired with the best wines, is Paul O’Donoghue. Formerly, one of our favourite wine merchants, he’s partnered with chef-patron Sean Clark to create a companion to “The Table” just upstairs [ its mantra: ten seats, two chefs, one table ] thus, this restaurant’s playful name.
Then again, maybe “Under the Table” refers to where we might eventually end up?? Either way, our glasses [ and ourselves ] are suitably topped up, so we’re diving into sumptuous Beef Bourguignon with chestnut mushroom, and the life-changing delicacy that is salt-cured pork cheek. Now this is a dish that truly warms the soul.
It’s also affirmed our gluttonous ambition and is soon followed by more wine, obviously, as well as fresh Sea Bass, beautifully contrasted with a spiced casserole of chickpea & chorizo. But even now, the best of head chef Alberto Giaccone’s work is STILL to come …
For the biggest revelation, and that’s saying something, is the dazzling Summer Squash Risotto with pickled blueberry, lavender & amaretti. A deliciously complex dish that’s almost sweeter than it is savoury. Every bite, an absolute wow.
Pausing briefly, so Paul can steer us on to the much-loved path of Late Harvest wine, our final “challenge” is inhaling the entire dessert menu: heavenly Tiramisu, Îles Flottantes, and a perfectly curated cheeseboard, complete with glorious grape chutney.
Miraculously, we’ve devoured EIGHT of the nine lunch dishes [ please, no applause! ] Making us ideally qualified to say: Under the Table is an absolute must. But even now we’re thinking, surely one last teensy bottle of Vinho Verde couldn’t hurt … could it??
Under The Table: 3A1 Dundas Street, Edinburgh EH3 6QG - 0131 248 3767
Prix Fixe Lunch: Thursday - Sunday 12 pm - 2pm;
Note: Sunday Specials include Roast Porchetta / Calamari / Italian Pork Ribs
A La Carte Dinner: Wednesday - Saturday 6 pm - 9 pm
Love these reviews! Always make me feel hungry and homesick and want to get back to Edinburgh with an eating schedule picked by these two absolute legends!