If you want cutting-edge food in Edinburgh get out of the stuffy New Town and head to the happening southside of the city. When you get there go to the Newington neighbourhood jewel, Junk, where bare brick walls, neon tubes, and pumping tunes create a laid-back urban eatery vibe.
The restaurant was opened by talented couple Cammie and Jade post-COVID in 2022. Junk’s mission is to sprinkle culinary fairy dust on street food and comfort dishes making them more refined and ‘sexier’. The idea is that there is no such thing as bad food.
It’s an inspired concept and when I first visited I was desperate to like Junk but felt it hadn't found its feet. Now it is sprinting.
You can choose from three menus; small plates, dealer’s choice (tasting menus of seven and nine courses) and Sunday roast. It is worth noting that what may have seemed pricy two years ago is now good value. The Sunday Roast is £25.95 per person while the tasting menus come in at £50 and £60 respectively. Mr Bite and I opt for the former.
Cuts of dry-aged beef and pork belly are distinguished by their quality. The pig liquifies in our mouths while the cow is rich, pink and velvety in texture. Yorkshire puds are eggy and big as cauliflowers, roast tatties are crispy, carrots are cooked sweet, tenderstem Broccoli is al dente. A pot of amber gravy is provided for pouring.
We also have a dish from the ‘Bit on the Side’ list; Braised Leeks, Smoked Bacon, Garlic, Espuma, and Crispy Shallots. Served in a cast iron tapas pot it is silky, sumptuous and would narrowly scoop the best dish of the meal if it weren’t for our ‘snack’ aka starter.
Lamb Croquettas with Crispy Onions and Curry Sauce is a small plate where the adjectives creamy, meaty, tangy and crispy do not suffice. It hits all those spots and more and epitomizes what Junk does best - street food pumped up to the ‘nth level. You simply must try them.
My Bloody Mary is made with sweet cherry tomato juice and Pedro Ximinez. It is on a level with those legendary Bloody Marys served at The Carnavon in Glasgow many years ago [if you know you know]. Halleluja.
We share a dessert named Cherry Bomb; coffee mousse, chocolate, hobnob, and cherry sorbet. It transpires that the hobnob is a crisp made of cacao nibs. There is even a wooden cup of homemade raspberry soda on the side.
Junk is full of such surprises and over-delivers. Rather than cutting corners in a financially challenging climate, it delivers great value by demonstrating how exciting and innovative a menu can be.
I detect culinary perfectionism and obsession here but Junk is the polar opposite of standoffish. It’s urban, fun, relaxed and hip. Get yourselves along.
Junk, Bar & Restaurant - 58 South Clerk StreetNewingtonEdinburgh EH8 9PS
Mon, Wed, Thurs & Fri: 5.30 - 9.30 pm, Sat: 12 - 9.30 pm, Sun: 12 - 4 pm, 5.30 - 9.30 pm
*Closed on Tues (Open 5.30 - 9.30 pm during Ed Fringe Festival)
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