For around twenty years, the Magnum has dazzled as a neighbourhood pub and top-notch bistro. The Social Bitches, meanwhile, are here on our very first visit, feeling ravenous and dangerously close to sober. Fortunately, it’s champagne on arrival, soon followed - spoiler alert - by an orgy of sumptuous food, wine and absolute gluttony.
Now on our cheeky third glass, we’re loving the fabulous service and vibe, as we attack the bites menu. Gorgeous Deep Fried Camembert, Gordal Olives, Padrón peppers, and numerous servings of the oh-so velvety Serrano Ham & Potato Croquettes.
Undeterred by our part in Britain’s obesity crisis, we’re also going a full three courses. Expertly guided by Sarah, our passionate host, who’s happy to steer and suggest, even take on the impossible task of making sure our wine glasses are never empty.
Soon we’re enjoying a refreshing Albariño and Cullen Skink that’s seriously next level. Boasting intense creaminess, delicate flavour, and beautiful presentation, it looks and tastes like a work of art.
just as impressive are the King Scallops, faultlessly pan-seared and served with deliciously diverse pairings of cauliflower purée, crispy pancetta, toasted hazelnuts, Granny Smith and fennel. Oosh.
Come the mains, Sarah’s next piece of sage advice is to drink at least one bottle of the Pinot Noir with a burgundy grape. Ding dong, she’s right again …
It’s the perfect companion to the Cider Braised Pork Belly with pork fillet medallion, butter-braised savoy cabbage, bacon & onion mash, and an inspired cider jus: a life-affirming dish that attests Magnum’s generous portions, and sauces always on point.
Somehow, even better is the Venison Tenderloin, served with a lush selection of veggies, from Jerusalem artichoke to Shimeji mushrooms, then drizzled with a stunning café au lait sauce. This elixir of coffee, herbs, perhaps a dash of sugar, creates a dish of bold taste and is the very definition of succulence. Bravo, say these bitches.
As for the man behind these magnificent flavours, that would be Chef Piotr, who we finally meet over a few glasses of Sauternes. Talented, and handsome, but taking a rain-check on our invitation to go dancing, his parting words: DON’T hold back on dessert.
Which is why we’re currently surrounded by intensely rich Sticky Toffee pudding, lashings of homemade ice cream, and best of all: Chocolate Marquise, combining dark chocolate mousse with salted caramel, honeycomb & mango sorbet to glorious effect.
And let’s not forget the port. Along with Sarah, who’s wondering if we’d like a little fizz for the road. My god, the woman’s a mind reader, and the Magnum an absolute joy.
The Magnum: 1 Albany Street, Edinburgh EH1 3PY - 0131 557 4366
Opening hours: Monday - Sunday - Kitchen: 12 - 9 pm / Bar noon - Close