The Seafood Ristorante in St Andrews - fine dining to a tee

Seafront St Andrews

As The Times reports that the south of England is warmer than Spain, Mr Bite and I hit the jackpot. Our destination for a staycation day is the Seafood Ristorante in St Andrews to sample the 'Icons' menu. Celebrating 20 years in business, this seafood restaurant has created a menu of some of its most iconic dishes and what better backdrop to this glass-box beach restaurant than the piercing blue skies and warm sunshine that have reached Scotland.

A corner seat and we can see pine tree-lined Tentsmuir up the coast and watch a couple of souls gamble into the sapphire coloured sea. We start our meal with my favourite way to start a meal: warm sourdough, good butter from The Edinburgh Butter Company and a crisp glass of white wine, in this case, Vermentino. 

The maitre d’ and team are warm and chatty, and executive chef Davy Aspin and team move about the open kitchen with a quiet, organised competence. Gordon Ramsay would not be at home here. 

Orkney Scallops, curry sauce

First up are hand-dived Orkney Scallops with a white curry sauce. Three large bivalves have been cooked until caramelised. The sauce is Thai influenced, and lemongrass gives a lift to the meaty shellfish. This premium produce is sourced from David Lowrie fish merchant just along the coast in St Monan’s.

Steamed Day Boat Halibut with a mussel and butter tartare sauce lives up to the scallop starter. Herbs and sauces are being used to full effect to complement the fish and seafood. Halibut has a confetti of lemon zest, and the sauce is a porridge of chopped shellfish, capers, tarragon and butter. Needless to say, sliced baby leeks are cooked to al dente perfection, while the fish is immaculate. An oyster fritter delights us further.

Fish is sourced from David Lowrie, St Monans

Although our dishes utilise French technique, the restaurant is owned by Stefano Pieraccini, so there is an Italian influence seen in, for example,  Anstruther Lobster Linguine and in our dessert.

A one-of-a-kind Tiramisu completes our three-course meal. Have you ever noticed that dessert courses tend to be excellent at fish restaurants? Perhaps that virtuous, omega-3-filled food means you can indulge guilt-free. This Italian ‘pick me up’ is a work of art sitting on a chocolate piped plate. Mousse, ganache, cream, sauce, sponge, crisp lacy shards of chocolate, and coffee ice cream all combine for a stunning finale.

Mr Bite loves his pud, but I give the whole meal 29/30 with one point deducted for a lack of alcohol kick in the Tiramisu. Otherwise, the Seafood Ristorante delivers pescatarian perfection. 

Ondine has opened up the road, and Haar and Rusack’s complete a cluster of restaurants within a golf swing of the world-famous Old Course. It is a very special spot, and the Seafood Ristorante does justice to its prime location. 

The Icons menu is priced at £80 for two courses and £95 for three courses. The Seafood Ristorante is listed in The Michelin Guide. 

Open Tuesday - Saturday weekly at Bruce Embankment, St Andrews, Scotland KY16 9AB.