The Bonnington in Leith is a place I would be pleased to have on my doorstep. Carlo Carrozzi, known for his award-winning street food venture – ‘The Peruvian’, at ‘Edinburgh Street Food’, has refurbished the pub as a cocktail bar which serves small and large plates of food. It’s on a corner site and retains a neighbourhood feel but could become a destination venue for cocktail aficionados.
When I chat with the short-order chef at the end of our meal he tells me The Bonnington is the only place in Edinburgh to have Pisco Sours permanently on their list. Reason enough to travel to the crossroads of Newhaven and Bonnington Road especially as Carozzi can leverage the experience of working in bars including The Voodoo Rooms and Dragonfly.
Unfortunately, I am under doctor’s orders and Mr Bite is driving so I can only tempt you with cocktail titles like: Velvet Roast, Pisco Pop, Golden Crumble and Tropic Thunder whilst I order Inca Kola, Peru’s golden soft drink with flavours of Irn Bru and lemon verbena.
The menu initially looks confusing; I can’t see how Philly Cheese Steak can keep company with a winter salad or olives but all becomes clear. Excellent produce, an eye on the provision of bar food, and the skilful application of juices, sauces and flavours are key; all with a side dish of seventies tunes when we visit.
Blinded by the Light (Manfred Mann) accompanies Pickled Mussels on Sourdough: fat meaty molluscs on toasted Company bread, razor slices of garlic and juice from the tinned shellfish is a moreish Spanish twist on garlic bread.
Then as ‘Creedence’ asks Have you ever Seen the Rain my Fried Monkfish Cheeks are served with generous dollops of herbaceous, (tarragon, dill, parsley), and homemade tartare sauce. My other small plate combines salt-baked parsnips, pear, Strathdon Blue cheese and toasted hazelnuts; an earthy juicy wintery jumble of deliciousness.
Mr Bite has a large plate of Philly Cheese Steak made with crispy, toasted sourdough swapped for the traditional sandwich hoagie roll, lashings of melted cheese and generous slices of juicy steak. The other half of his dinner plate has an abundance of salted fries and Steely Dan Do It Again.
I ask ‘chef’ to help me choose between lemon crème brûlée and Bramleys, soft meringue, candied walnuts and caramel and the latter hits a seasonal sweet spot. Why did we ever eat anything other than snowy, voluptuous, squidgy meringue which kicks the brittle version into touch along with various dairy; rock on Gold Dust Woman.
As The Bonnington is newly opened it’s a case of steady as she goes at present but there’s potential for it to become a hidden gem and a Leith staple.
