Autumn in the West End. I always loved it when I lived here and I still love it now. Despite the changes and gentrification - I mean, it was Presto at the top of Byres Road when I did my shopping, sometimes at the same time as Del Amitri’s Justin Currie. Now it’s a Waitrose; all praise be upon them. The BBC has gone at the top and, at the bottom, where’s the Transport Museum?
Broadcasters and old buses have all gone down to the riverside, but turn left at the lights and you’re still on Argyll Street, all the way west along Argyll Street, and if there’s one thing the west end of Argyll Street is good for - it’s a good chippie.
Not, though, your average chippie. This is Sole Club - The Chippie Club. Something more special than standing in front of the fryer getting third-degree burns from ignoring the warning not to touch it. Forget “salt n’ sauce” at the end of the night on a fish supper, which, for Scottish cuisine, is rarely eaten at supper time. For relishes, try celeriac mousse, smoothly mild curry gravy, and a pea pesto.
Now, the next-door neighbours should be a clue as to the rarified atmosphere in which you’ll be dining tonight. Not a newspaper in sight - or if there is, it’s definitely a broadsheet - and probably today’s, bought specially. This, quite simply, is the ultimate in Glasgow chippie experiences, the concierge version, a stretch limo-style hang out, where the only thing actually hanging out is the fish from the plate.
Now, for the virgins of the tasting menu - beware. No amount of fasting beforehand will prepare you for six courses. Yes, six. Only by coincidence is this a Six by Nico business. You won't see Nico or Valentine here, but head chef Jake will make your day - or night - just as fulfilling. In case you’re unsure what to expect, the dry-cured fish are right there, dry-curing in the glass-fronted dry-curing cabinet thing, for you to see exactly what’s going into your plate after plate, after plate.
Right. Six plates of fish would probably not be palatable, even for the most evangelical pescatarian. So that’s not what you get. Instead, served up in the intimate surroundings (there are only about twenty covers) is a succession of succulence, starting with chips on a stick - but they’re really akin to a fried dauphin garnished with chopped chives - and you’ll be set on the right track. Go for the added luxury of the drinks pairing menu, and your chips, scotch egg, fish, cheese and dessert dishes will all be served with an appropriately aromatic beverage, from elderberry gin to Chilean wine - and if that’s not chilly enough, the gin comes with a teapot of dry ice. Don’t ask why - it just does.
Now, all this might set you back sixty quid (twenty-five of which is the drinks option), but for what are you paying an Argyll and Highlanders ransom to dine on Argyll Street? Well, we’ve already mentioned the intimate and fishy-themed interior and the personal attention of Jake and the kitchen staff, not to mention Morgan and her front-of-house team, who whisk through the menu items with that particularly Glaswegian nonchalance. There’s a genuine level of enthusiasm for each new dish, and that’s something you’ll feel compelled to share. Changing colours and changing textures with every serving. Something new, something renewed. The humble fish supper made resplendent. A Scottish staple raised to the level of masterpiece. A menu for all seasons. It just happens that this season was autumn and, amid the falling leaves and falling temperatures, Argyle Street has a new chippie. Just don't expect salt ’n’ sauce.
Sole Club Tasting Menu: Sole Club (a Six by Niko brand), 1132 Argyle Street, Glasgow G3 8TD
£££ - but so is a fish supper these days
