Moss, Stockbridge, where the benchmark is green

Cured halibut, blue spirulina

Stockbridge is certainly having a moment, as is Edinburgh, which was voted the Most Exciting Food Destination ahead of London in the respected Good Food Guide in January.

 As the gastronomic stars align around our city, the newly opened Moss shines as brightly as Sirius. This farm-to-table restaurant, owned by Chef Director Henry Dobson, boasts over 90 products sourced directly from Dobson’s Scottish family farm in Angus. His family venture and the countryside have instilled a firm conviction in Henry to serve only minimal food mile items and to make those foods with a waste-conscious and sustainable approach. Only British wines are served.

Beetroot, whey fudge, peated whisky, crystal bread

 This DIY ethos extends to everything in the restaurant. The 26-cover ‘Scandi-inspired’ minimalist dining room was designed by Henry and his artist wife, Akiko. It features homemade textured paint using ash from farm-sourced hardwood. Tables have been built by Henry using wood from wind-fallen lime trees, and crockery is made by Akiko, who specializes in ceramics, using clay from the farm. Even the music in the restaurant is produced by Henry.

 Walls are lined with jars of foraged fig leaf, dried cherry leaves, sweet rose, woodruff, white rose, elderflower, porcini, and mason jars of kombucha fermenting away with their floating scobies.

Two days after my visit, many dishes have left a strong impression.

The Beef Tallow Focaccia, made by Konstantinos Salellariou formerly of Kuzina, was incredible. It takes 24 hours to make and is based on a Greek variation of the Italian staple. The ancient process involves a sourdough starter, lengthy fermentation, and high hydration. The result is a springy, rich-tasting bread with a black coffee-coloured crust. I am tempted to take a sleeping bag to Moss’s kitchen to observe the process.

An Italian dish of Gnudi is made with organic Phantassie Farm spinach, Scottish cheddar, and ricotta rolled into dumplings and served in a cep and onion broth. It is the ultimate comfort dish.

An aged leg of lamb (Hogget) from Bowhouse in Fife has been slow-cooked and topped with cheesy mash made with Clava Brie (Parmentier). Roe Deer is served with damson jus, airy Chiffon Cake comes with luscious rose cream and apple compote and is garnished with a bright, papery, see-through beech leaf.

Every dish has a ‘wow factor’ at Moss, so prepare to be intrigued by how the ingredients, methods, commitment, and creativity feed into each delicious plate. It is even more adventurous than the roll call of already pioneering restaurants in Edinburgh and has inspired me to collect ingredients, fill my jars and put on my pinny!

 Moss, 112 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh, EH3 5AD Open Wednesday - Saturday for a set lunch and à la carte dinner service.