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Ballathie House by Cate Devine

Writer's picture: Cate DevineCate Devine

Given the current vogue for upscaled luxury country house hotels in Scotland, you could say that Ballathie House Hotel in rural Perthshire isn’t on a par with, say, the Fife Arms at Ballater, Cromlix at Kinbuck, Kinloch Lodge on Skye or even Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire, and it’s safe to say it hasn’t yet succumbed to a Banjo Beale makeover. On the contrary, the grand Victorian Ballathie House remains resolute in its traditional, comfortable decor - think curtain swags and tails, old portraits, original taxidermy in glass cases, and (gasp) its cocktail-free whisky bar menu - and you start to get the picture.


But it seems that the privately-owned Ballathie House is more than comfortable in its own skin. Situated at the end of the most magnificent tree-lined driveway and sitting right on the banks of the majestic River Tay, its situation is enviable. A former Country Sporting Hotel of the Year. It’s host to many a fishing and shooting party and its ground-floor layout of public rooms is conducive to a relaxed, free-flowing ambience that suggests conviviality and comfort.


When it comes to dining, though, it’s immediately clear that head chef Scott Scorer is bang-on trend. A reassuring amuse-bouche of cauliflower veloute arrives, dusted with dukka and walnut; it’s accompanied by a spiky black pepper and fennel bread and two types of house butter: salted and applewood-smoked. We immediately feel welcomed and relaxed in the fully-booked dining room that overlooks the Tay and the setting sun.

Ballathie tomato dish

Next up I have a cool, elegant and astonishingly pretty dish of heritage tomato with tomato confit, wasabi mascarpone layered with a crispy Bunuelos fashioned into the shape of a flower and dotted with deeply flavoured basil emulsion - a perfect precursor to my meaty main. 


My Gressingham duck breast with its smoky crust and perfectly rendered fat, potato presse, heritage carrots, pak choi and a sweet, aromatic date and tamarind purée is beautifully cooked and slickly presented, a little confit leg spring roll making a tasty accompaniment. My partner’s pink loin of venison from Simpsons of Kingussie was a flavour triumph with its poached pear, celeriac, winter greens, walnut and fondant potato, paired with a delightful venison hot pot in a crispy furikake bunela base.  


Ballathie Duck

An exceptionally generously portioned dessert of crispy, sweet Choux au Craquelin is beautiful to look at, filled with a caramel crème and banana jam and sitting atop caramelised banana slices accompanied by little florets of Chantilly.  I loved its intense sweetness even if it became a little too much.


The dining rooms, bar and lounge were all busy on a Wednesday evening, which says a lot about chef’s sure and accomplished touch - as well as the sophisticated tastes of his customer base. This is assured, contemporary cooking served by professional uniformed staff and if not exactly cutting-edge, it's up there and I would certainly return.


Ballathie House Hotel, Kinclaven, Stanley, Perthshire PH1 4QN. Tel: +44 (0)1250 883268. www.ballathiehousehotel.com/




Dessert



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