The trick is to keep eating! Review of the newly re-opened Ox and Finch by Cate Devine.

Craig Nelson

Considering the range and complexity of flavour and technique in every dish, prices at the newly reopened Ox and Finch in Glasgow’s Kelvingrove are pretty amazing. Take, for example, a substantial main of warm North Sea cod loin from David Lowrie, beautifully firmed up by simply salting, rolling and cooling for a day to produce a just-cooked, flaky and immensely flavoursome cut atop a sweet-savoury, honeyed gluten-free Joker Pale Ale cream and served with in-season hen-of-the-woods and wild garlic salsa verde. It’s the most expensive dish on head chef Craig Nelson’s wide-ranging menu at just

£15. Another of his new offerings - two tender thick squares of ox tongue topped with a Welsh rarebit of tangy Red Leicester and served with a side dollop of spicy brown sauce gel relish using allergen-free Henderson's Relish - was the standout for me for its total deliciousness, originality and hint of

nostalgic humour at just £12.

Sauchiehall Street

Ox and Finch was the first of the Scoop Restaurants group’s empire. It launched 10 years ago and has just re-opened after a prolonged refresh, the most noticeable change being its green-tiled exterior, wraparound awnings and outside seating (which apparently took ages to get through planning permission in this conservation area). It’s Craig Nelson’s new playground, complete with shiny new open kitchen, now reorganised to put the Pass in front, the Wash section at the back and Pastry at the side where diners can see it. Chef Craig spent time at the group’s new restaurant, Margo, after returning to Glasgow from the Michelin-starred Harwood Arms gastro-pub in Fulham, London (where I once ate on the recommendation of the late Andrew Fairlie). It’s clear he’s relishing the opportunity given by owners Jonathan McDonald and Daniel Spurr. Visible from the Pass immediately on entering the restaurant, he’s head-down, calling out to his fulsome brigade - and smiling, despite continuous arrivals on the first night of being open to the public.

Sea Bream Crudo

Japanese influences whisper from a signature small plate of barbecued sea bream crudo with citrus dashi (£10). A complicated technique involving 10% brine, freezing, barbecuing, cooling overnight, slicing hyper-thinly and serving in a dashi of rapeseed oil, orange and lemon juice resulted in an intriguing mandolin-like progression of delicately flavoured just-cooked tiny slivers, though I felt the orange juice rather dominated the dashi and overwhelmed the fish. A main of tender slow-cooked feather blade of beef, from the celebrated supplier Andrew Duff, was beautifully presented alongside a Tsukimi moon-like circle of buttery pomme purée (£15).

Burrata

Spices are also showcased, especially in a burrata, compressed tomato, chilli and anchovy plate that kicked off our meal with a welcome punch (£9). Meaty cod cheeks with chorizo, tomato and morcilla (the Spanish blood sausage made with rice to make it gluten-free) on Freedom Bakery sourdough at £9.50

were stunningly executed - the fish allowed to speak out among all the other shouty flavours - and almost a meal in themselves.

France gets a ‘oui’ look-in too, with a soft apple tarte tatin (with crunchy butter pastry) paired with a Fourme d’Ambert blue cheese and a tea-

infused prune and raisin gel - a dessert and cheese board all in one (£9.50). I enjoyed this with a glass of “living” Soif! organic natural sparkling wine of 40% Auxerrois

grapes, 40% apples, and 20% water from Les Funambules in Alsace. Not a cocktail, although the cocktail menu is fulsome, but fun and delicious at £7.50 all the same.

I liked that you order all dishes - small and sharing - at once and get them when they are ready, because it challenges the palate and creates a sort of disruption of expectation. The downside is that you order too much and find you struggle to finish. The trick is, of course, to keep eating.

Ox and Finch, 920 Sauchiehall Street, Finnieston, Glasgow G3 7TF

open 12 noon - 10 pm Wednesday-Tuesday. 0141 339 8627