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  • Lea Harris

The Radhuni - comforting food outwith the city

Outside dining

Typical Scottish weather scuppers our hopes of eating al fresco at The Radhuni (meaning ‘passionate cook’) in Loanhead, but sitting in the elegant restaurant has its benefits, it’s warm, comfortable, and dry. We are greeted with broad smiles from the staff, escorted to our table and, within a blink of an eye, crispy poppadoms are placed before us with the requisite chutneys. Mr H informs me that the mixed pickle isn’t overly spikey, so I dollop a spoonful or two on my plate. It’s fab to see that Cobra beer is on draft and there is a non-alcoholic version too, which is what I order while we peruse the menu.

There are the usual Kormas, Baltis, et al, but also Milly Jilly – lamb and chicken in a bhuna style sauce, sounds intriguing, Shatkora Lamb (that I’ve had in their sister restaurant, Itihaas), flavoured with Bangladeshi citrus fruit, as well as two types of Biryani, one that comes with a vegetable curry and a Hyderabadi version that’s cooked in a clay pot with saffron and spices. I digress. To start with, we order Haggis Pakora, fat little bundles of joy with a tamarind dipping sauce, Shingara – onion, pea and potato stuffed tricorn-shaped pastry accompanied by minty yoghurt dip. Both are subtly spiced; we leave no crumbs.

My Indian Railway Curry is three tandoori lamb chops smothered in delicately spiced spinach. Amazingly tender and meaty, but this isn’t a dish you can eat in a ladylike fashion, it’s a pick it up with your fingers and to hell with the consequences of wearing it across my face. The only thing that remains on my plate are the bones and a hint of heat on my lips. His main is far more dignified, Fish Jalfrezi. Although the menu says it’s fairly hot, the salmon isn’t swamped with a fiery overload of chilli, it seems to be mellowed by the sweetness from the tomatoes and has a delicious smokiness. Our sides include Brinzal Bhuna, the slippery aubergine is meltingly soft and, as you’d expect, perfect with the lamb, while the Ghee Batt rice glistens with butter. We rip a Tandoori Roti into pieces to mop up any remaining juices on the plate. We’re a little disappointed with desserts as there are no traditional sweets on the menu, just ice cream supplied by Crolla’s.

Both of us are impressed with the pricing as there isn’t anything on the menu over £19, making The Radhuni an affordable place to eat. It also has an AA rosette and an accolade of other awards. They also do a roaring trade in takeaways. (L Harris)

The Radhuni

93 Clerk Street, Loanhead, EH20 9RE

0131 440 3566

Opening Hours Tues – Thurs: 12 pm – 2 pm & 5 pm – 10:30 pm Fri – Sat: 12 pm – 2 pm & 4:30 pm – 10:30 pm Sun: 2 pm – 10 pm Closed Mondays

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