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The Puffin, North Berwick - a seaside gem
- Sharon Wilson
- Apr 16
- 2 min read
The Puffin is a charming bistro run by Kristian and Megan Campbell, located on the High Street in the picturesque town of North Berwick. Front of House is managed by Jaime, who does an excellent job of presenting what Chef Kristian creates in the kitchen.
At just 26 years old, Kristian's talent is remarkable. When Mr. Bite and I visit, we are amazed by the culinary skills demonstrated by someone so young. The restaurant exudes a warm, family-friendly, and neighbourhood atmosphere. While the setting may seem unassuming, the food is anything but. Jaime tells us that Kristian prefers to let his food "do the talking," and it speaks the language of modern British cuisine with global influences.
The meal begins with a well-crusted homemade sourdough bread, served with whipped butter with a yeast crust—both are exceptional. This is followed by Loch Fyne oysters, paired with a chimichurri sauce, flavours that cleverly complement the meaty, briny shellfish.
Starters are a vibrant array of small plates, including smoked mackerel with burnt apple, Szechuan pepper, fennel, and a buttermilk dressing, as well as pig’s cheek croquette with mojo rojo and a nest of apple and fennel. The thoughtful combination of ingredients, flavours, and meticulous attention to detail is evident.
In addition to the regular menu, there is a Sunday roast and a blackboard of specials. This is not just any Sunday roast. Jaime informs us that the chef sous vides the beef overnight, resulting in thick, juicy, pink slices that far surpass any flaccid, drab carvery-style offerings you may be accustomed to. Considering the effort that goes into the bread and beef alone, I wonder if Kristian ever gets any sleep. The broccoli is al dente, the carrots are sweet, and the cauliflower is swaddled in a velvety cheese sauce that has been caramelized under the grill. Gravy is reduced to an intense syrup.
Across the table, I enjoy a spectacular fish dish from the specials board: firm fillets of sea bream served with buttony clams and plump mussels in a beurre blanc. The addition of bright green skinny samphire and grassy asparagus makes it a visually stunning spring dish. My only critique is that this immaculate dish is crying out for a glass of Albariño, yet the wines by the glass are limited to Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.
Despite being quite full, we continue our culinary journey.
The cheese plate features a surprise winner: a British cheese, Lincolnshire Poacher. Kristian’s friend Ross, who runs the deli 'Why Not?' across the road, has also provided truffle gouda, chaume, and montagnolo.
The rhubarb crème brûlée is mercifully light and served with a rhubarb sauce that resembles a sharp cordial. This dessert cleverly avoids being too cloying or too sweet and is, of course, adorned with a pretty tuile for texture.
I say "of course" because no detail goes unnoticed by Kristian. Every dish is meticulously executed, meaning quality and prices are competitive compared to the city; incentives to support this neighbourhood bistro near the beach.
The Puffin Bistro & Wine Bar - 114 High Street North Berwick – EH39 4HE
