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  • Writer's pictureSharon Wilson

Review of Once Upon a Time from Six by Nico

The Last (marscapone creme) Rose

Once upon a time there was a wizard chef called Nico Simeone. Nico had a magic foodie wand and opened a chain of restaurants. His themed six-course menu changed every six weeks, each one telling a different story. People flocked to his restaurants to be entertained and everyone lived happy ever after.

The current menu at Six by Nico starts with Confit Potato, Hay Baked Potato Mousseline, Preserved Wild Garlic & Pickled Onion. The dish is both earthy and light. Simone and I are sitting in the Hanover Street restaurant enjoying the service and warm atmosphere. The restaurant is buzzing.

Course number one is themed around Oliver Twist while following dishes are inspired by the fairy tales and folklore of Paddington Bear, Matilda, Danny Champion of the World, The Ugly Duckling and Beauty and the Beast.

Carafe and Syrah

Our waitress asks us at the end of our evening whether the theatrics of the experience have intruded on our evening. Not at all. I am enchanted when the Syrah is poured from a duck-shaped decanter to accompany Duck Leg Boulangère with Pickled Walnut, Salsify, Toasted Cereal, Pear & Fig. When a jar of Mushroom XO Marmalade & Truffle is placed between me and Simone to spoon onto plates of ox cheek ragout and sourdough, we share the fun. And The Last Rose Petal is show stopping. A glass dome is lifted to reveal a scarlet Mascarpone Creme, Rose, Hibiscus & Rhubarb.

Added fun comes from the menu which is presented as a story book containing recipes and a section for notes; a generous souvenir. Nico is not afraid to reveal his techniques signaling he is confident that his ideas are boundless. Instead, he urges you to continue the adventure at home and ‘release your inner chef’ providing an email for queries and sources for the utensils like a spray gun to colour the rose. The Tandoori Carrot dish looks like a simple recipe to prepare for such delicious results. One for me to try then.

The menu is priced at £32 per person with the option to enjoy wine and specialist drinks pairing for an additional £27 at each restaurant. The menu runs until March 13.

The End.

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