By Sharon Wilson
Meeting a girlfriend for a gossip, dramatic views of Edinburgh’s skyscape and sipping fizz – this is what Harvey Nichols means to me. Theatre that will never be matched by the Hermes driver leaving your food parcel by the grey bin. But I still crave good food, food beyond what I can achieve, food that someone else with skill has cooked for me. Food with love.
And on that basis, I can highly recommend Home@HarveyNichols.
Our three-course Easter menu, cut to the chase, comprised salmon, lamb, chocolate. A little heating, mis-en-place and assembly the only requirement chez Bite.
My kitchen is the scene and I gently toast brioche buns which have the requisite polished golden dome and buttercup yellow crumb. The buns are a rich and satisfying side to smoked salmon rolled around goat’s cheese and black garlic. Sweet orange and carrot marmalade added indulgence, pickled beetroot and fennel was piquant. The relishes fought each other a little but you can always mix and match according to personal taste.
Two generous rumps of lamb had been marinated in garlic, ginger, and lemongrass. I seared them in the pan, popped them on the oven for 15 minutes (as per the instructions) and we both rested for ‘five’ (me and the meat). I placed the lamb on warmed plates alongside spicy couscous and added (get me) fancy swirls and dots of mint yoghurt and tomato and chilli confit. The couscous had flaked almonds through it which would have been better presented in thei
r own plastic pot to be toasted separately. The spring meat was fleshy, tender, rare and juicy and the confit intense and fruity. I had to rest again but Mr. Bite powered through to the salted caramel and Valrhona chocolate tart with Kahula crème chantilly. Don’t Stop Me Now by Queen could have been the soundtrack.
I toyed with the idea of saving the tart for the following day. I was pretty satisfied with the delicious two courses but the tart kept beckoning. I knew it was sitting there in the kitchen, it knew I knew it was there, it was always going to win. Maple-roasted pecans and hazelnuts were sprinkled on top, the pastry was buttery and crisp, the filling indulgent and the cream light and alcoholic. No regrets.
I can’t wait to go back to the Forth Floor to sip a cocktail or champagne, to commune with the staff and feel the buzz. Nothing will ever replace that experience but the quality of the food in the home box was superb. £32 per person is more than fair for such high-quality produce. The food gave me a taste of Spring and a hint of good times ahead.
Harvey Nichols at home deliver to a number of postcodes throughout Scotland. They are just about to update their Spring menus and also have a @HomeSteakNight
HN @ Home boxes are delivered each Friday and Saturday (additional £5 delivery fee applies). Orders should be placed by 12pm on Tuesday for delivery the same week.
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