Còmhla at the Tower – A Nosy Foodies Dream

The building dats back to 1785

I wonder how many of us have walked past The Tower on Portobello seafront and wondered what was within its walls? I know I have, and my curiosity was answered recently. It is the oldest building in Portie, dating back to 1785 when it was built as a summerhouse, and over the years it has been a hotel, engineering works and a fruit and veg merchant. It was taken over in 1907 by a pal of Houdini,

Harry Marvello, who extended it and turned it into the town’s first variety hall, which in turn became the arcade that we all know today.

It fell into dereliction until Mark and Dawn Nobel fell in love with the building and spent many years restoring it, with much blood, sweat and tears, into what we see as we walk down the alley to the beach.

Zarah, their daughter, saw the potential of its uniqueness and wanted to make it a place of community, and Còmhla was born. It means together, and that is what she and her team have done. They have created a magical place for celebrations of all things local. From small brand launches, elopements, intimate celebrations, and pop-ups for up to 12 people.

An olive in a snail shell

Canapés are served along with cocktails in the small courtyard or up at the top of The Tower with stunning 360 views across the Forth to Fife, all the way round to the Pentlands and Arthur’s Seat. Food is prepared from local and Scottish ingredients (just use the QR code), all wines are from England, and of course, the spirit selection is heavily biased towards Scottish producers.

Michelin-trained chef Joanna creates dishes that she hopes not only nourish you, but also delight. And she has achieved this. You’ll find perky, citrusy olives served in snail shells. Tomato ‘Tonnato’ is a Scottish twist on the Italian classic, using mackerel instead of tuna – juicy cherry tomatoes filled with creamy fishiness. But my fav has to be the Crab Custard and Honeyberry Jam Stuffed Doughnuts; sounds bonkers but utterly sublime, leave me in a corner (bit difficult in a round tower, but hey-ho) with a bucket and I am a happy bunny.

Strawberry, hay and oregano ice cream

feature some unusual dishes like Grilled Lamb Heart with Salsa Verde, Hake Kyiv with Fermented Garlic, and a different take on the traditional fish supper – Torched Mackerel, Pea Salsa, Pommes Dauphines with Chippy Sauce.

For ‘pud’ don’t turn your nose up at the Strawberry, Hay and Oregano Ice Cream made by Basement Gelato.

So if you’re as nosy as me, like some excellent scran with good views, book yourself a seat at the kitchen table with Còmhla at the Tower from 18th – 20th July. Can’t make it? Keep your eyes peeled for other upcoming events.

Còmhla at the Tower - Beach Lane, Portobello, EH15 1HJ