Bread Street Kitchen & Bar by Gordon Ramsay
I don’t relish criticising people because of their celebrity status. It whiffs of the little man taking a blow at the big man in the public eye and I think people in the public eye have enough on their plate already.
Having said that Gordon Ramsay is a chef and entertainer so if I visit his restaurant – even one billed as a casual bar kitchen - I do so with certain expectations, namely great food and a bit of pizazz.
Bread Street Kitchen is the latest restaurant to join several chain venues that now circle St. Andrew’s Square.
Unfortunately, based on our experience it may be the weakest link.
Nearby Dishoom is always buzzing, Wahaca has an ethos and Gaucho is polished. Hawksmoor is exciting, and Harvey Nichols has carved out a home in Edinburgh. The first thing Simone and I note about BSK is the lack of refurbishment since it was The Refinery. There is no stamp of identity and the bar kitchen seems to have simply moved in.
It's all a bit of a damp squib.
Simone and I take a seat upstairs overlooking the square and I order a Nobel House cocktail which comprises Patron Reposado tequila, lime, egg white, rose syrup. It is perfectly mixed and very pretty.
The menu has some signature dishes like Beef Wellington for two and Wagyu burgers which I clock as they sail past us. I have to admit they look very good but it is a school night and we are being semi-sensible. I order Sea Bream and Simone has Duck Salad.
The Bream is a generous and moistly cooked piece of fish despite not having the crispy skin I prefer. Red and yellow cherry tomatoes are sweet, the fillet sits on a bed of leeks softened with butter, skinny samphire is salty and teeny brown shrimps are meaty. It all adds up to a competent and tasty plate of food. BSK has the Coravin system which means you can sample better wines by the glass. I am pleased to be able to try a glass of Bacchus Reserve from Chapel Down which is medium bodied, and juicy with citrus and gooseberry. It complements the fish very well. Simone’s Duck was crisp and sweet with a light, sweet and sour Asian dressing and crunchy radish.
Two good plates of food but we weren’t tempted by dessert. Partly because it was a Monday and partly because we just weren’t wowed enough by our main courses.
I suspect the location and name attached to Bread Street Kitchen will attract the requisite amount of tourists to sustain it but locals will know they can get outstanding food in beautiful venues within literal a stone’s throw. (S. Wilson)