This eatery in leafy Bearsden is part of the Worq Hospitality Group that also owns the spectacular El Santo in Glasgow, Hemingway’s in Edinburgh and a clutch of other venues. Testimony enough to spur Mr. Bite and me to spend a day in the ‘Dear Green Place’.
We build up an appetite by visiting Mugdock Country Park one of the many green spaces that give Glasgow its nickname. The 270-hectare space is found in the shadow of the Campsie Fells and includes a 13th-century castle, loch, wood, abandoned zoo, wildlife aplenty and it verges onto the West Highland Way and the Allander River. After more than 10,000 steps of exploring, and a shared ice cream we drive three short miles to Drymen Road to refuel properly.
55 Bearsden Cross’s exterior is painted bright green; a colour that combines with classy dark blue when it extends to the interior. It also helpfully does that old-fashioned, thing of posting the menu at the entrance. There is the characteristic bustle and warmth of the west coast inside. Football is on the telly and the place is busy with a diverse crowd from families to dogs to elderly folk.
We are seated in a spacious booth where I order a Green Lady, a cocktail based around Shipyard Gin in a nod to the West’s heritage. Mr Bite has a pint of Neck Oil.
The chef at 55 Bearsden is Glaswegian John Keenan whose major claim to fame is the dance classic FRAGMA’s “I Need a Miracle” (there's your earworm for the day). We hope his culinary skills are just as impressive.
To start, I have a plate of Beef Carpaccio, juicy sumptuous slices of iron-rich meat piqued with pickled red onion rings. A recommendation of Zatar Fried Chicken on a gargantuan dimpled Waffle with Maple Syrup and Fried Egg is eaten with gusto across the table. I note how the sweetness and spice neutralize and complement each other resulting in an Americana nirvana of lusty mouth pleasure.
Sometimes I wonder how Mr Bite can fit in the amount of food he manages. His ‘main’, a double-patty burger with all the colourful works and fries, is demolished with enviable ease. As with the chicken, the portion could feed two. The beef is sourced from local butcher Christies.
I choose two modest tacos with fried chicken and haddock swaddled in mini fluffy tortillas. Salsa or a squirt of sriracha would provide the kick they missed but for £3.50 each you won’t hear me complain.
We are impressed enough to share a Chocolate and Coffee Mousse which is a substantial ganache in a rum, and caramel sauce, oh mamma it’s good.
I have to order a Negroni (of course I do ) and it is perfectly built and balanced with a dramatic garnish of rosemary sprig and orange twist.
Considering the coronary-inducing prices of some Edinburgh establishments, my thoughts now turn to more trips out west.
Even verdant Bearsden establishments like 55 Bearsden Cross are offering great value feasts. Make a day of it.
55 Bearsden Cross - 128 Drymen Road, Bearsden, Glasgow - Tel: 0141 465 2710
Open: Wed & Thursday: noon - late, Friday & Saturday: 11 am - 1 am, Sunday: 11 am - late
